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fizzy

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Posts posted by fizzy

  1. On 1/16/2024 at 2:42 AM, XXitanium said:

    Nobody can answer my question. Do you have an extra one of those later on that you could soften up and see how long it stays? Pliable? Apparently it's a big mystery.

    1+ year ago I did a wintergreen job on a set of BB carb boots. 1 part wintergreen oil to 4 parts 99.9% isopropyl alcohol. Boots were rock hard, lets call that 0% as new.  2-3 week soak until they reached a point where they weren't getting any softer. I'd say 50-60% as new. Also, they were a very very loose fit on the carbs.

     

    Rinsed and let air dry for 2-3 weeks, where they eventually shrank back to size. Covered with red rubber grease and put into zip lock bag. Just checked and they are somewhat hard again.  I'd say 15-25% as new.....just about good enough to reuse in a pinch. 

     

     

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    • Upvote 1
  2. 50 minutes ago, DaveK said:

     

    1:37mins, that's more like it. I like humor, even gallows humor. 

     

    If I get food poisoning once every 10 years, more or less, does this mean I am good to go for the rest of the decade? 

  3.   Apologies' ahead of time for the clickbait title, but I get paid by the word. They are called redskin peanuts, unsalted, come in a plastic bag.  Swallowed a handful, then realized 3 or 4 of them had an unpleasant texture and taste.  After 2 1/2 hours, or about the time it takes to watch a utube vid from zero,  I knew I had food poisoning. Bad.

     

    Anyway, I know of course you can get this from fruit and veg, not just spoiled meat, but 3-4 peanuts? Not sure how to proceed on the nut front now. I guess avoid for a while until I forget?   Be warned. 

  4. 55 minutes ago, silverbird1100 said:

    Is there a way to test your r/r?  Or they either work or they don’t?

    Recommend you install a small voltmeter on the dash. Voltage should be mid 12V to MAX 14.5V.  

     

    Low voltage is usually either a bad battery or a weak stator

     

    High voltage is almost always a bad R/R.  High voltage, ride straight home at 1500rpm. 

     

    The old style R/R (OEM on blackbird) will get quite hot during normal use. New style R/R (FH012AA, FH020AA, SH847) as explained in the link I left in previous post, do not get hot.  Heat is the enemy of small electrical devices. 

  5. As LEDs consume less power than incandescent bulbs, counterintuitively, they put more strain on the charging system. More specifically, the R/R. 

     

    If you go all LED, then upgrade the R/R to a real deal (as opposed to fake, which online sites are littered with) mosfet type.  Home (roadstercycle.com)

     

    Not a bad idea to upgrade anyway, as this new kit is far superior. 

    • Like 1
  6. 1 hour ago, superhawk996 said:

    No clue what the air gap is, I filled them from the bottom to approximately the factory spec...I think.  Spec is 9.7 ounces, but it doesn't say if that's each or total.  From forums and videos everyone says it's per side, what came out was about 9-10oz total for both.  There's no sign of leakage and they still had some air pressure after being parked forever so my guess is that the last guy did 9.7oz. total.

     

    They call for 10w which I didn't have so I mixed some 5 and 20 blindly aiming for somewhere around 12.  And yes, I know the number on the bottles mean nearly nothing.  The left fork supposedly has to be filled from the bottom which seems harder, but in this case it's easier to fill them both from the bottom.  I guesstimated spillage and added a little extra to compensate.  I forgot to put the schrader back in before pulling the filler hose from the right side so it's probably a little low, but nowhere near how low it was.  With the schrader in it creates an air lock so less spills out when pulling the hose to insert the screw.  Smart me would have prepared better and pulled a vacuum to not spill any.

    Please see my post, there is a smiley guys at the end. This subject has the potential to go where original subject is already going 🍺

  7. 3 minutes ago, SwampNut said:

     

    I once answered that since the book said that all laws of physics were suspended, therefore anything is possible, and I made up something insane.  I got a pass, as I was technically correct, the best kind of correct.

     

    If you pulled that stunt in engineering school, you would end up with a degree in business admin. 

    • Like 3
  8. 1 hour ago, jon haney said:

    Related to the actual Question:  (What is the max rpm of the disc before the cam follower leaves the surface of the disc?)

    I believe we would need to know spring rate, starting seat pressure, effective mass of the follower/spring combo, and any friction of movement of the follower.  As Tomek would say, Fun stuff.

    Per my post "K, m, d, r and any other pertinent info is given (metric)."

    On the actual test they expected an actual rpm result. 

    I don't remember the actual numbers but I can make some up if you want to grind it out.🍺

  9. 6 minutes ago, tomek said:

    I mean, last time I had to deal with things of that nature was in mid 80's so don't expect me to remember  advanced math. 

    But coming up with mathematical equation for the movement of the rod vs. cam angle is the main thing here. Maybe, maybe after completing it would be clearly apparent at what angle of rotation the acceleration is the greatest. Maybe.

     

    Back when I was at peak form it would take me about 10-15:minutes to deal with it. 

    Now, 4 of those would be entirely different story, we all know after extended period of intense thinking brain starts to smoke, and becomes useless.😁

    But coming up with mathematical equation for the movement of the rod vs. cam angle is the main thing here. yes

    then:

    Differentiate the formula of position to get the formula for velocity.

           "                "       "         "  velocity to get the formula for acceleration

    set this formula against the potential acceleration generated by the spring.

     

    In all my years working, I never ever had to do any calculus. Very little math really, compared to the stupid amount I had to learn. 

     

             

    • Upvote 1
  10. 1 hour ago, tomek said:

    That would be fairly easy. First we would have to create calculus for the movement of the rod. It can be easily done by creating two geometric equations. We know d and the angle of rotation of the cam. So we can find x and y.

     

    From second one we can calculate z , or essentially the movement of the rod. 

    Pretty much done. 

     

     

     

     

    167165686190869973201416541519.jpg

    "Pretty much done"  No. 

    That is the very first step of many many steps. 

    I will say you are pointing in the right direction, so, good job.

    This section of the test gave 60mins, or actually, 4 hrs to do any 4 out of 8 questions. I guess this was the easiest as I remember doing it first. 🍺

     

  11. 1 hour ago, tomek said:

    Go ahead. 

    Quote

    IMG_0337.thumb.JPG.73788113e80b32ad28b02f2ebdadd994.JPG

    Consider:

    A round disc radius r is rotating clockwise about a point distance d from the disc center. A cam follower is touching the disc at it rotates.

    K, m, d, r and any other pertinent info is given (metric).

     

    Question:

    What is the max rpm of the disc before the cam follower leaves the surface of the disc. 

  12. 4 minutes ago, tomek said:

    I was not referring to their claims, greatness, etc. The text is absolutely correct from physics point of view. That's all.

     

    Jerk? That would be me sometimes.

    Seriously, you referred to what is happening during initial phase of valve opening. Cam lobe in not supposed to "hit' valve at high speed becouse you get what? Bounce.

    It applies to closing stages as well, valve not supposed to hit' valve seat at high speed. 

     

    Jerk is an engineering term meaning rate of change of acceleration. 

    • Upvote 1
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