Northman

My first choice would be to replace it with a woodstove, as well, but it's not my money. Not to mention it's a finished basement and running a new chimney will be a huge PITA. It's non-electronic, at least as far as the burning end goes. It just varies the auger speed to control temp from what I can tell so far. I'll call the guys that build it and see what they suggest. Thanks for the replies

My girlfriend has a pellet stove, installed new ~2000. Worked well for the first year she lived there, then one day snuffed out and filled the house with smoke. Was blamed on not being cleaned out properly, so had that done. Worked great for a while longer, then started snuffing itself out when it was milder outside. I cleaned it out at the beginning of the year and it works great when it's cold, but when the temp gets mild and the stove cuts itself back, it will snuff out. No smoke or anything, just quits burning. I'm thinking it's either a problem with the auger, or the control for the auger. Any insight from someone that actually knows? I can get the make/model tonight if that helps.

+1 The whole induction system is a bottle neck from the airbox to the intake valve. Cams will yield very little for what you're going to spend putting a set in (cams, springs, retainers, adjustable gears, etc). I wouldn't consider changing cams without re-working the head, but you're going to spend substantially more money for very little gain. If you want the biggest bang/buck, go with the best exhaust you can afford (Akrapovic or TiForce), and nitrous. Sounds like you're mostly drag racing anyway with the extended arm. For my riding, NA works best as there's no turbo lag, and I don't need nitrous. I just like a big motor that pulls hard when you want it to.

Any year of wheel will fit as long as you have the proper rotors. Black rotors - carb'd 97-98 Gold rotors - FI 99-up I would bet they meant 97-98

Is the rear pedal pivot binding?

I honestly don't give lean angle any thought. My judgement is whether or not I can make the corner at a given speed. If I overcook it, then I need to dig deeper and look further into the turn. Hopefully I don't lowside doing it

I haven't looked, but is it possible you have the connectors swapped?

Pretty sure I have a stocker with ~15k miles you can have for shipping. I'll double check tonight.

They're a PITA to deal with, but Carrozzeria makes a nice wheel (when it all of the right parts get shipped), for a pretty good price. They're a lot lighter than stock, as well, and you won't believe the difference in handling. The bike feels 100lbs lighter just with wheels. WAY too much $$ for the slight benefit you'll see. Stick with the stock type, but if you get new wheels, they come with bearings.