typicalmale1978

Well it sounds like you have done enough experimenting to have pinpointed the problem. Just make a couple air deflectors out of something more durable then cardboard -lol- and save yourself $500.

I have a '97 as well, and there are in fact two (not ram air) ducts, running from the air box a little past the sides of the frame and tucked under the side panels on the fairings. I guess the part I don't understand about your problem is the fact that with the fairing on the bike air could not go directly into the airbox even without the ducts. If your bike is naked as is mine, then yes you will have to create two air diverters of some sort for the bike to run properly. I used a piece of sheetmetal from Lowes to make mine and painted them black and you can't even tell they are there. Hope that helps ya some.

It wouldn't hurt to run a can of seafoam through before you go tearing your bike apart. The stuff really does work as advertised.

Scuba divers have the exact same problem, and all they do to solve it is spit on the inside of their goggles. It actually does work and doesn't cost anything

There is also this option... http://www.ixxra.com/centrestandsolution.htm

Definately sounds like you knocked a wire off the coils or got the plug wires mixed up as I would think the bike would have started off the fuel left in the carb bowls. Still not a bad idea to check the lines on your petcock and make sure they are connected and in good condition. Lastly make sure you don't have the fuel valve turned off

You would be amazed how much heat the OEM plastics actually trap and cause the fan to have to run constantly at red lights. I am currently in the process of going the naked route, and my XX cooling fan actually cycles now while sitting at red lights. -Edit-... Sorry didn't answer your question. The fan on my bike comes on at 220F so like Northman said 235 isn't too bad.

I just had a Pilot Power mounted on the rear, but I removed the wheel from the bike first. It cost me $32 at a tiny little mom and pop cycle shop. Earlier in the morning I waited for a well known dealership to open only to be told by the service man that they would not mount the tire due to it not being ordered through them... wow money is evil

Hey I won't criticize considering I don't have access to these diagrams myself. Thank you again for your help

Hi all, I was just wondering if anybody has access to the wiring diagrams for a US spec 1997 XX. If so, I would greatly appreciate the time required to scan and post those on the site. I have the diagrams for the 99+ models, but I would feel more comfortable chopping into the OEM harness with the official diagrams for my year of bike since I am going to be installing aftermarket speedo, tach, and others. BTW, thanks for the PM reply rockmeupto125. Thank you all in advance.

The main caution with decreasing the size of your front sprocket is the fact that you are making the chain travel around a tighter angle which can cause it to bind or fail much quicker. Personally I always stick with increasing the size of the rear, because the only side effect is more low end fun Good luck with your swap..