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Pete in PA

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About Pete in PA

  • Birthday 11/10/1964

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    Halifax, PA. In the twisties.

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  1. OK, I'll ask.....What are you doing with a 98 with 16k miles?
  2. Well I have split everthing including the ballenceshafts, and they have the only rubber in the engine other the the drive cushins in the rear wheel, that I can thnk of now. I'm just going by what I've read in the 99 test in Rider where they quote the press kit with the changes from 97 and 98. Rider April 1999 "To minimize the annoying clunk that occurs when the bike is stationary and the transmission is shifted from neutral to first gear Honda engineers developed a hard-rubber damping system that quickly slows the spining mainshaft when the clutch is pulled in." BTW I still think an ST1300 is in my near/distant?? future. But that will mean no XX. I'm having more issues with my neck, wrist, and arms riding my XX.
  3. Since leaning her out, last tank just got 41.8 mpg for my commute which is up over 1 mountain and lots of ridges with about 17 miles of hiway one way. With the 1 tooth up on the front changing the odometer 6% it's actually 44.3 mpg. still runs great no hesitation.
  4. His is a 98 like mine. we don't have the rubber damping in the trans like 99 and newer does. Set the idle at 1100 rpm, you'll still get a kerchunk but not as bad. BTW nice stable of bikes. wish I had an ST1300 also. Almost traded for one last fall, can't have both bikes.
  5. With gas prices going ape shit, I pulled my carb bank yesterday and leaned it out. I was getting 38-40 mpg and now hope to get42-45 mpg on my commute. I didn't set it quite to factory (lean) specs, but went with a smaller washer on the needles and pilot screw only out 2 turns instead of 3.
  6. Of course you can. If you don't mind coolant, oil and compression leaks.
  7. Just what I did last year. The Gorilla glue didn't hold. Drilled a hole near the pivot and ran a small screw into it. I haven't dragged my sidestand yet.
  8. I'm thinking there is physically no room to pull the rim out from between both installed calipers. Per the manual I put pieces of duct tape on the rim to protect from scratches when I pull calipers.
  9. Well when you do the springs, put in tapered steering head bearings.
  10. How are you guys pulling the wheel WITHOUT pulling both calipers??? I've always pulled the fender and both calipers.
  11. So now there are at least 2 of you ot there not even running a washer. Sorta makes the topic a while back of changing out the washer or not every oil change worthless.
  12. Unless you feel a pulsing when braking your rotors aren't warped. It's normal for the pads to wear unevenly from the LBS. I rotate my pads to stop this. Also check that the caliper moves freely side to side either without pads installed or without a rotor between. I'm still on my origional rotors at 83k miles.
  13. Sorry I got to this late. Every brand of car I've done rear disc brakes on you have to turn the piston in. It IS how the E-brake works.
  14. R1 reg/rec since April 2003, still going strong. Yes it gets warm/hot. With all this talk of stators going out I've still got my factory origional at 83k miles. :icon_thumbsup: :icon_pray:
  15. Mercury sticks here also. Cost $35 about 20 years ago.
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