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blackhawkxx

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Posts posted by blackhawkxx

  1. Checking to make sure the locking hooks will fit is a good idea but locking hooks are a must IMO.  Change the anchor points if not because I have had S type hooks come unhooked before.  The loops are very useful for giving you more options when tying things down.  

    While some do haul their bikes around with 2 or 3 straps, I have never seen any harm in adding more.  

  2. 5 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:

     I suppose you’re saying that I’d have to take the bolt out, clean, reapply then retighten.

    Yes.  BTW-some bearings need a specific torque to function as designed.  Too little is as bad as is too much.   I don't know if that applies here as we haven't seen the it all but something to think about. 

  3. 6 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

    It would be interesting to know how much wind drag that wall/loading ramp creates at highway speed.

    I have always wondered about that but thinking of the amount it will be used, might not really be a thing.  Most of the small trailers I see around here are like that now.  It has to be so much more convenient than ramps.  If it does cost him $5 or 10 more per trip vs having a better riding, more useable trailer, I'd take the latter.

  4. 7 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

    I've heard that wintergreen oil is a good rodent deterrent, then you'll have some around when you need to rehab some old rubber parts.

    Snakes.  You need snakes.  

    • Like 1
  5. 1 hour ago, XXitanium said:

    ...that was 30°F on a 4 lane. I was doing 75. He passed me.

    That's always the question, I'm freezing, do I slow down to get less wind chill or bite the bullet and speed up to get there quicker?

    • Upvote 1
  6. 9 hours ago, rockmeupto125 said:

     

    Sure you do. 

     

    Use something long and thinner at one end to prise under the to door and raise it up a wee bit. Put a block under the door, reset your prising bar, and repeat until there is room for your hydraulic floor jack. Now you're in business. Raise the door with the jack, block it up, and lift the door again using whatever you can find...4x4 post,   two 2x4's secured together, etc. keep lifting until the door is at least halfway up. As more of the door passes the 90 degree corner, less weight will be direct lift and you should be able to push the door up by hand. 

     

    You did it! Just you and your friends leverage and hydraulics!

    Did the same thing many years ago on a very thick 1940's two car wood garage door.  

  7. 2 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:

    To inspect the front and rear universal joints for wear…they aren’t serviceable, but you don’t want a failure while riding.  You also should liberally grease the splines so oxidation doesn’t make it jam in place.

    I didn't think you had that many miles on it.  Did the manual recommend it at your mileage?  

    A couple of years ago I pulled the shaft out of my 1994 (that I bought new) to grease the driveshaft.  After pulling it did it need it, NO.  Total waste of effort.

     

    2 hours ago, superhawk996 said:

    Because he made a Zerological decision

    Made me LOL!  A new word.

    • Upvote 1
  8. I have four Battery Tenders ranging from over 30 years old to a year old that get used from Nov to April.  Never had a problem with any of them.

    Zero, years ago I remember you saying that you didn't use them because you didn't like using "vampire" electronics or something like that.  Have things changed?

    • Haha 1
  9. 49 minutes ago, superhawk996 said:

    then stuck it in the toaster oven at 350 to make sure it was dry all the way through.

    Never thought about having a old one in the garage to use.  Not sure it would get used enough to justify the space which is at a premium.

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