Rider99XX

My 99 had the usual symptons of the FI light coming on when I hit the brakes or used the turn signal so I pulled the test plug out and looked inside. There was only 3 pins that were corroded and they really didn't look that bad. So I just cleaned the pins and socket and replaced the cap. Reconnected the battery and fired it up. It looked like light show. Everything was blinking including the headlight. So I said SHIT!! Then I went ahead and did the clip and solder thing and everything is working again. The plug on my 99 had the 10 green wires on one side and the other had 3 white, 2 yellow, then 3 more green.

I have plans on doing just that mikesail. So far so good but I'd like to put back what came out, back original. I was thinking the extra disk and spring may have been a bypass of some sort due to the spring is not as strong as the main spring. Thanks for the info.

So far so good. After a 30+ mile ride all looks good. No higher than normal temps, no gurgling sounds from the engine/radiator area. All seems well and good. In fact it seems to run a little cooler than before, but just slightly. The 97 stat is half the size and weight of the newer stat so I probably gained some speed and better handling due to the lighter weight and lower senter of gravity

Here's a short ride report with the 97 thermostat in my 99 Bird. After a short 4-5 minute warm up I went for a 15 minute ride to warm the chain to lube it. The temp gauge was a little below where it was before the stat change. the ambient temp was low 80's here in MS. Halfway through the ride I pulled over quickly after a quick trip up to redline in the first 3 gears and let the bike set idling for about 6-7 minutes and watched the gauge. It did rise but a little more slowly than before. I then proceeded back home, about 6 miles, all at higher RPM's and again let the bike idle. The gauge again rose, but slower than before. I let it idle for 8 minutes and the needle went to the top of the rectangled box on the gauge while the fan would cycle on and off. When the needle went to the top of the box the fan stayed on. That's it for now. Any thoughts????

The 97 stat looks totally different from the newer stat. The newer stat has an extra spring and a nickle sized disk behind that extra spring. The 97 stat will fit in the housing and the small vent hole lines up. I ran the bike for about 15-20 minutes sitting in the garage. The temp gauge went just over half way up from cold to hot. The fan never came on which made me wonder a bit. Normally if I let it idle that long it would get VERY close to the red mark and the fan would come on. The outside ambient temp was upper 70s last evening. What is the worst thing that could happen running the older stat in the newer engine? The bike is a 99 with a full Akrapovic exhaust, remapped PC II, K&N, Iridium plugs, 27K miles and 143 dyno verified HP. It runs great with no other issues other than the thermostat.

Thanks rockmeupto125. Now to go reassemble. Just curious as to what the extra spring and disk on the back of the newer stat is for?

Hi guys. I have a thermostat for a 97 Bird. I have a 99 Bird. Will the 97 thermostat work in my 99 bird? It will fit in the housing and the vent hole lines up, and if I swap the rubber sealing ring from the 99's stat. I have the Bird drained and ready to go back together but need to know if the 97 stat will work. Thanks in advance.

Never thought to check Best Buy. I'll check their site and Audiovox's site. Thanks guys.

+ what ever the number is up to now. I didn't read the whole thread. Also ride with experienced corner carvers. Have them follow you for a while and let them point out what you may be doing wrong or what you could do better. A set of eyes watching what your doing helped me out a lot. Relax your grip on the clip ons. Don't strangle the grips. Just relax. Speed will come in time.

None of the auto parts places here have them. They've never even heard of them before. They look at me like I'm from outer space. Just wondering where I could purchase one.

Did all the above. The spacer tube that came with the RT springs was aluminum, but I still used a steel washer under the cap. Got it all done today along with the 6mm shim on the rear shock. Went for a ride and it feels like a new bike, only better. Turn in with the 6mm spacer is a LOT better. I wish I would have done that years ago.

Mines only been in the rain maybe a dozen times in 10 years, but I actually wash my bike with water and soap. I NEVER use a pressure washer and it's always parked in the dry. I do however live in a humid climate(Mississippi) an my garage is not climate controlled. I don't flood my bike with water when I wash it, use just enough water to get the soap off. I guess I'll address the loom when a problem shows up.

At what point in time does the loom problems rear their ugly head? I'm at 26K miles with nary a problem yet. At what point should I start to worry?? What's the average bike age or mileage that the problems start to show up?

My wife and I used the Chatterbox Tandon Pro 50 for years. It works great. The only drawback is the cables from the unit to your helmets are not very strong and are prone to break after a year or two.

Since I don't have a center stand on my Bird, I used the "inexpensive front end stand" to change the spring and install the 6mm shim. I removed the tail fairing and used 2 ratchet straps at the rear of the sub frame. Worked like a charm. I put the front end on a fork stand while the back was suspended by the straps. Using the ratchet straps allows you to make small adjustments in height plus they allow you to lower the bike slowly. I haven't had time to do the front yet, but will soon.