Redbird Posted May 14, 2004 Share Posted May 14, 2004 There's a locknut under the cap, 14mm I believe. Opened end wrench will be required. You won't see the spring, it's under the spacer. Stick a magnet in there and pull out whatever sticks. Do you have a manual? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted May 14, 2004 Share Posted May 14, 2004 Whoops- Yes I do have a Honda manual but have not looked at it yet, being an engineer I've long ago rendered all manual unnecessary....unless I am stamped, and that happens more often than I care to admit Use it, really. This is all covered pretty well in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Involute Posted May 14, 2004 Share Posted May 14, 2004 Just put an open end wrench (12 or 14MM) on the nut to hold it in place and then back off the fork cap. Righty tighty/lefty loosey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gcp Posted May 14, 2004 Share Posted May 14, 2004 Cool, thanks guys!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gcp Posted May 14, 2004 Share Posted May 14, 2004 It took about 1/2 hour but the 7/8" long PVC spacers are in place. I did a short ride afterward and the front does definitely feel stiffer but it will take more than a ride around the block to verify success. Something's nagging me though, the PVC spacer's OD I used is the same or less than the stock spacer's tube and since the stock is so thin I was wondering if there's any possibility of it slipping or wedging over the PVC spacer under hard cornering. There's not that much play inside the tube at all so I don't expect that would happen but I just notice there's a nice, even slot for the stock spacer tube to seat in perfect perpendicular manner inside the bottom of the fork cap. I know, convoluted explanation but for those that have done this mod I am sure you understand my concern Any thoughts? Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Involute Posted May 15, 2004 Share Posted May 15, 2004 I don't know if I screwed up when I did mine or not but I did away with the stock spacers and just used PVC (longer than stock). What about the rest of you guys? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted May 15, 2004 Share Posted May 15, 2004 Good catch, I was kinda wondering what he was talking about until you posted that. gcp, you might try pulling the stock spacer out, cutting your PVC to 7/8" longer than what's in there, then installing those. Leave the stockers on the workbench. edited for horrible grammar, which you can still view in the quote below :wink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Involute Posted May 15, 2004 Share Posted May 15, 2004 Good catch, I was kinda wondering what he was talking about until you posted that.gcp, you might try pulling the stock spacer out, cutting you PVC to 7/8" longer than what's in there, the installing. Leave the stockers on the workbench. Good catch nothing! I was starting to wonder if I did it wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gcp Posted May 15, 2004 Share Posted May 15, 2004 Back to the drawing board I guess, thanks :oops: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted May 15, 2004 Share Posted May 15, 2004 My stock spacer is in there with the PVC, no issues. As long as the diameters are compatible. Did you do your measurements and check for 1 and 1/2" of sag with your weight on it? Joe, not to jump on you, but never jack up the bike on the oil filter. Unless you do 1 fork at a time you MUST jack up the front end or else when you remove the last fork cap the forks will bottom and probably make the bike fall off the centerstand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gcp Posted May 15, 2004 Share Posted May 15, 2004 Job completed :grin: and I am glad I did because what I suspected did occur, in that the left side OEM spacer overrode part of the PVC tubing so it was seating in there cocked after all! May not have created a real long term problem but the 8 & 7/8 inch PVC tubing I installed on either side as longer spacers (OEM is 7 & 7/8) produced more peace of mind on my end. BTW, the front of the bike can drop but the center stand still holds it in place. Don't ask how I know, that's what happens when you do things half asleep :oops: And now for the fun part, testing!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gcp Posted May 15, 2004 Share Posted May 15, 2004 Pete, how exactly do you measure sag? Meaning at which point to you measure for best possible accuracy? Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gcp Posted May 15, 2004 Share Posted May 15, 2004 I COULDN'T BE MORE PLEASED :-o !! My bird now rides like a totally different bike and it no longer bottoms out on speed bumps when 2 up so, I whole heartily recommend these spacer mods on both rear and front springs. For a grand total of $2 you too can have a much better riding BB. Its front end now feels like a fast bike's should, solid with immediate feedback at all times, not like the wondering boat ride of a feeling the stock set up produces. A big thank you to all that guided me through this, I owe you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted May 15, 2004 Share Posted May 15, 2004 An easy way to measure front sag is put a zip tie around fork tube where it will hit the fork seal. Slowly sit on bike with all weight then measure from zip tie to fork seal. It does make a big difference. The bike is more balanced in the suspension action and in cornering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GUMBYBOB Posted May 16, 2004 Author Share Posted May 16, 2004 If I order the correct stiffness springs from Racetech, will I need to increase the stock spacer length? What spacer length did you guys use versus your weight to achieve the 1.5" sag? That will help us that haven't tackled this yet. I'm thinking that if I order the stiffer springs, I won't need to play around with spacer length. Also, if someone with a manual could post a picture of a couple scanned pictures from the manual of what I'll see when I pop the caps off, I would be indebted. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted May 16, 2004 Share Posted May 16, 2004 If I order the correct stiffness springs from Racetech, will I need to increase the stock spacer length? Yes, if you want to get it just right. A difference of just a couple millimeters in preload can have a pretty good effect on sag. If you just toss the new ones in there with the existing spacers, you'd see a definite impovement, but setting your sag correctly will reap all the benifits of going to the proper spring rate. How much do you weigh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GUMBYBOB Posted May 16, 2004 Author Share Posted May 16, 2004 175lbs bare-assed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted May 16, 2004 Share Posted May 16, 2004 You gonna make me ask how much your gear weighs now? :grin: Going by my weight, and the length of the spacers I needed to get 30mm of sag out of the 1.0kg/mm springs (I should have went with 1.05kg/mm at 220lbs, I had to load the hell out of the 1.0s to get it where I wanted), I'm going to *guess* that a total spring/spacer length close to stock will definitely be in the ballpark for you. Remember, the aftermarket springs may be a different length than stock, so you may still be cutting spacers, which should be included with the springs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gcp Posted May 16, 2004 Share Posted May 16, 2004 I just measured my sag using Pete's suggestion (tie wrap on fork) and it measures right at 7/8". Maybe a bit less than spec but the bike feels so darn good to me either 1 or 2 up so I think I'd rather leave it this way if you guys see no problem with 7/8. What do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted May 17, 2004 Share Posted May 17, 2004 That's a bit on the tight side as far as sag goes, and will slow your steering. I'd remove some of the spacer length, to give you the 1.25" you should be running. Might want to work on the size of your avatar, too. You've got a PM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted May 17, 2004 Share Posted May 17, 2004 I agree with Chris. And check your sag out back while you're at it. It is balance your looking for here, afterall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gcp Posted May 17, 2004 Share Posted May 17, 2004 But guys you seem to ignore the fact that I ride 2 up very-very frequently and since there's no adjustment on the fly possible with the BB I thought that the 7/8" sag, with me on the bike alone, is a reasonable compromise. So, I will measure front and back sag this evening once more in both 1 up and 2 up configuration and will post results. It will be interesting to see how close to the ideal 1.25" I currently am. Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gcp Posted May 18, 2004 Share Posted May 18, 2004 OK guys here's the numbers. My BB's rear spring sag is set to 1 & 1/8". My old PVC front fork spacers which were 8 & 7/8" long produced 3/4" sag while my new PVC 8.5" long spacers, I installed today, produced 1" sag...less than I expected but I've got to say that feeling wise I like the longer/harder setting better, but I am not taking the forks apart again until I give the bike a good running. Surprising thing is that when 2 up we did not alter the front sag at all, it remained 3/4" and 1" respectively. That's all so far, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MileHi Posted May 23, 2004 Share Posted May 23, 2004 Well I just replaced the stock spacer with a 8 3/4" PVC spacer. Wow... What a difference! The sag with me aboard is just a hair over 1 1/2". It looks like the RaceTech Gold Valve kit that I got for the Bandit also works for the XX too. The only difference is that the Bandit useda 1.0 spring. Looks like I'll want to get the heavier spring. But the new spacer works for now! Excellent info in this thread... Thanks guys!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gcp Posted May 23, 2004 Share Posted May 23, 2004 Mile, if you don't mind me asking, how much do you weigh? Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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