Global Cruise Control

[beestoys]

Global Cruise Control 250-1316 Install For CBRXX 1100 Blackbird

Disclaimer

Information has been provided on these pages in hope that it will be useful.

Each of these pages contains steps followed to complete certain modifications on my bike.

This is not a shop manual. I am not a mechanic.

I assume no liability for any damages, direct or otherwise, resulting from the use of this information.

If you choose to follow the steps on these pages, you do so AT YOUR OWN RISK

Parts used :

When adapting this cruise control to the Blackbird, the following parts have been used:

- Instruction booklet

- Servo assembly (the electronic brain that controls the throttle operation)

- Wiring harness

- Assorted clamps, attachments, connectors, etc.

Parts Required/Purchased/Fabricated :

· GM Weather pack 4 connector housing (male and female) Napa PN 725268 and 725267

· GM Weather pack seals for each wire Napa PN 725152 (8 required)

· GM Weather pack Terminal Napa PN 725150 for 18-20 gauge wire (4 required)

· GM Weather pack Terminal Napa PN 725151 for 18-20 gauge wire (4 required)

· Fuse Holder, Mini Napa PN NW 784667. 5 amp mini fuse Napa PN BK 782-2087

· Single Pole Double Throw (SPDT) DC Relay Auto Zone PN 788801 or 20421

· Global cruise VSS Pulse Divider Divides by 4 PN 250-4379

· Honda Goldwing 1500 right handlebar control with Cruise WITH THE WIRING HARNESS INCLUDED.

· tie wraps

Optional Tool:

· Extraction Tool Napa PN 725153

Preparation :

To make this install easier I removed the following parts for access.

· Inner fairing pieces around gauges

· Windshield

· Left side lower fairing (Sitting on the bike)

· Left side inner fairing pieces

· Seat

· Rear cowling

· Gas tank

· Filter and airbox

· Left side ram air tube

Goldwing Control install: The control switch is a fairly straight bolt on. You will need to remove your existing barrel and cables they will be swapped over to the new control. You will need to drill a new locating hole in your bar. I accomplished this by taking a black felt pen and coloring the area about where the pin would be and then squeezed the control halves together by hand. First while holding the assembly where you want it twist the control slightly back and forth. This should give you a line for the depth of the pin on the bar from the end. Then without taking it off get the unit rotated to the positing you want it setting when it’s clamped. Slide the assembly in and out on the bar slightly and this will give you your rotated location. If you have done it correctly you should have a cross mark in the marker area. The center of this cross is the center of your location hole. Take the appropriate size drill (you can use the old hole for a gauge) and drill at the center of the cross. You may want to center punch the point to help keep the drill from walking off. Install the new control halves with old cables and barrel slide and adjust out the slack.

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Switch wiring :

This is accomplished by swapping at the red connectors. You will need a small pick or screwdriver to release the locking tab to get the wires out. Only do one wire at a time to keep from getting them mixed up. The following wires used in the Goldwing connector are listed with the corresponding wire colors they connect to in the Blackbird connector. As you will see most of these are one for one switches. The brake switch wires run separately until this connector and don’t need to be changed. All wire changes are made in the Goldwing’s connector

· Yellow with Red Stripe straight swap

· Black with White Stripe/ Black with 2 Silver Squares

· Black with Green Stripe almost white/ White with Black Stripe 2 Silver squares

· Black with White Stripe/ Same but with 2 Silver Squares

Cruise Control wires used form the Gold wing switch are.

· Black with Yellow Stripe and White Squares

· White with Black Squares

· White with Yellow Stripe and Black Squares

· White with Blue Stripe and Black Squares

The wires in the brown connector and the remaining unused wires left in the red connector can be cut back and wrapped into the loom.

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Control Module Switch Settings:

The following settings are from the manual on page 8 with recommended changes from Tom Callahan at Rostra.

Switch 1,2 off,off Extra low (changed from on,off Low) to reduce surge

Switch 3,4,5,6 on,off,on,on 19.3K pulse with divide by 4 network installed

Changed the above to on, on, on, off 24K pulse took out all of the pulsing and surge when you acvtivate the cruise.

Switch 7,8,9 off, off, off 8 Cylinder low (changed from off.on,off 6 cylinder/ Low) to reduce surge

Switch 10 on Square wave input VSS

Switch 11 off Manual Transmission

Switch 12 off Open circuit Control Switch

Servo Mounting:

I Chose to mount the servo in the tail trunk and ran the drive cable out the left side, as you would sit on the bike. The cable comes forward then turns in just behind the rear frame mounting point. I used the bracket supplied in the kit cutting it at the edge of the 4th hole. I used a longer bolt to attach it via the stock seat bracket. I reshaped the bracket to make the bends a sharp 90 degrees at each point. This puts it above the stock computer and there should be enough room for a PCII or III if you have one. The cable is attached at the frame-grounding bolt using a strap that was supplied in the kit. I used a ¼ drill bit to open the hole up to clear the bolt.

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Linkage/ Cable attachment:

The cable is routed over the main fuel hose to the injectors and to the center of the throttle linkage. This arrangement puts it above the enrichment rod. And is attached by drilling a small hole in the throttle linkage as shown. I used the supplied cable loop and one of the chain link clips and plastic locks. I used blue Loctite to keep the screw from backing out. I crimped the loop tighter to keep it attached to the screw. It stays put very well and does not hinder throttle actuation. The trick is to not attach the frame-mounting bolt until you are ready to set the tank down again. But all of the fitting can be done at this point. I set my cable for a little slack. You must be sure to have a little slack. About 1/8 inch is recommended if this isn’t set you can hang the throttle open when the servo releases. This is accomplished by pulling the cable back after you have everything in place. You will need to watch the clamp, as it will try to wind up as you tighten the bolt. I stopped most of mine by placing one of the ground lugs under the bolt head and above the bracket. Do not tighten the bolt too much to allow the cable to be slipped in the bracket. Once it is adjusted tighten down the bolt the rest of the way.

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Main System Wiring:

Most of this follows the install book. With following exception you will modify the supplied harness as I note here. After I finished I found I only needed one of the 4 pin connectors and 4 wires to run forward. The remaining wires were either removed completely as I cut out the extra wire or cut back and tucked into the wrap I used. You will have to cut and redo both ends of the solid red wire to match the respective 4-pin housing. The male and female will be reversed to what you need. Just cut off the connectors from another connector that will be deleted as we progress. The factory 4-pin male and female connector you will keep has the green, yellow and red with brown trace in it.

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The next picture shows the connector coming from the control switch assembly you will note the solder splice I made to get this connection changed from female to male. You will need to change the other side as well from male to female.

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The next picture is of a tie wrap I used to release these connectors from their housing. If you look into the housing you can see the locking tab. All you need to do is slip the tie wrap end into the housing to get it to bend the lock tab back into the connector body. Work with it and be patient once you have the tab sufficiently bent in the connector will release. You can use the same tie wrap to release the other connector as well from the female side.

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A. Black Ground

I attached this to the frame lug by tank bolts (see the above picture)

B. Brown Accessory Power

I tied this into the fused side of the main fuse block it is spliced into the IND, METER, TAIL, ILLUMI slot. This allowed me to remove the 10 amp blade fuse supplied with the kit and integrate the stock fuse in the bikes existing system. I removed the connector by releasing the locking tab on the connector. I used a test light or you can use a scribe or ice pick. The trick is to catch the tab as you looking into the socket. It simply pushes back to disengage. The connector will slip down out of the connector body when it is released. You will need to pull down slightly to get to slip free. Once you have the wire soldered as shown you can slip it back into the body after it has cooled. The key is to use minimal solder and to get the wire tight to the connector strain relief so that it will slip back into the connector housing. I found it easier to tin the connectors with a little solder, first in the area between the main connector lug and where the factory wire is crimped. Apply the solder to the crimped area on the connector. You will also want to tin the wire (apply solder to the exposed stripped area). This was how I made most of my spliced connections. It keeps wire insulation integrity and keeps the installation neat and clean. The following pictures show how the splice is done.

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C. Red Brake Positive

This wire needs to be hot at all times so I tied it into fused side of the CLOCK circuit of the fuse block using the 5-amp mini fuse connector from the parts list.

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D. Violet Brake Negative

I had to use a relay in my system because of the LED taillight installed in my bike. The LED looks like and open to the servo which uses this path for a sense ground. This allows the unit to automatically disengage when the brake is applied. The unit keeps the setting in memory with this setup so that all you need to do is hit the resume button to go back to your last set speed. The path for the ground circuit is through pins 30 and 87A. You will need a single pole double throw really to get the path with the relay at rest (not energized) The power for the relay comes through pins 85 and 86 from the connector that is plugged into the rear brake switch. You will need the side that is on when the brake is pressed. I grounded to the negative terminal on the battery. After you have it installed you can verify proper operation by activating each brake. You should hear the relay click when you apply each brake.

If you don’t have and LED taillight then you can tie the power side (Violet wire) into the connection for the rear brake switch. You don’t need to ground it in this situation. Be sure you catch the side that shows voltage only when the brakes are applied. You can verify this with a test light. By tying in here the unit will be able to sense both front and rear brakes.

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E. Dark Blue Tachometer (TACH)

Not used I removed this wire from the connector and replaced it with a solid red wire.

F. Grey (Vehicle Speed Sensor) VSS

I tapped into the VSS sensor at the factory connector as described in the previous splice. The connector is a bit of a pain to find it is in a bundle with other connectors coming from the engine. This wire comes up through the main cruise harness to the main power center under the seat.

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From here it is wired into the pulse divider listed in the parts section.

G. VSS Signal Adapter (Pulse Divider)

I first sealed up both ends of the adapter with RTV. Be careful not to use to much you only want enough to coat the wires and the opening without filling down into the board area. I would also recommend sensor safe RTV to prevent corrosion of the components. You can purchase it at your local auto parts store. It will say sensor safe on the package.

Red Wire

I tied this into the fused side of the TURN, STOP, HORN, PASS fuse block using the earlier splice procedure.

Green Wire

Connect this to the gray wire coming up from the VSS signal.

Yellow Wire

Connects to the gray VSS wire that goes to the control servo

Black Wire

I added this to the lug from the Relay ground on the negative side of the battery.

After you have everything connected I tucked the unit between the relay and fender piece.

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H. Light Green Neutral Safety (NSS)

Not used (removed)

I. Orange Enable

Not used (removed)

J. Auxiliary Speed Sensor Connector

Not used

K. 4-Pin Switch Connector

Used to connect the Goldwing control switch with the Red, Red Brown, Yellow, Green wires in the cruise control unit.

The Goldwing switch is considered a Normally Open Control Switch. Connecting it requires cutting the original white plastic connector and replacing it with the GM 4-pin Weather pack connector listed in the parts section. I used this connector for availability and its weather proofing.

Strip back the Red, Red Brown, Green and yellow wires from the cruise control servo slip the rubber grommets over the wires as shown in the picture and attach the Female connectors as shown. The pictures shown are of the male but the same procedure applies for both. You can crimp or solder them depending on your tools and skill. I used the pliers’ end of my stripper in the steps shown below to crimp the wires. Napa sells the tool to crimp them but it’s about 75.00 dollars. The crimp method I used secures the wires very well. Trim the strain reliefs back as shown to make wrapping it easier. Take your time and the crimp will be very strong.

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The next step is to set each connector in the housing as shown. The colors are from the top down Red, Red Brown Stripe, Green, and Yellow. Be sure you have this right before you set the connector. Once they are in they are virtually impossible to remove. Napa sells a tool for this and it is the only way to get either the male or female out without damage. It is listed as an optional tool in the parts listing. You just push the wire in until you hear it click and its locked. Slip the grommet up into the housing next and then snap the cover shut.

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Repeat the steps for the male connector’s and install them in the connector housing as described earlier. Make sure you have the wires aligned in this manner before you snap them in place.

The combinations are as follows

· Red / Black with Yellow Stripe and White Squares

· Red with Brown Stripe / White with Black Squares

· Green / White with Yellow Stripe and Black Squares

· Yellow / White with Blue Stripe and Black Squares

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L. 2-Pin Switch Connector

Not used (removed)

And that completes the install I went through the Trouble shooting procedures to verify all my connections were good.

The road test was good a few things to note when activating the system hit accel set and hold the throttle a few seconds. This will minimize the surge of the servo coming in. It will come in if you don’t but may over shoot a little and take a drop and rise again to lock. It isn’t a big move but it might be a bit unnerving the first time. Coming down a grade it will feel a little surging as well but that is do to the power to weight ratio. I chose the best settings I could find to minimize this.

One other thing to note if you select any of the 4 cylinder Engine setups will make the initial on surge pretty big. Just a warning.

If there are any questions or something I missed let me know and I'll edit it to add or correct things.

[JuXXtin]

Wow... I did not read this all nor try to comprehend... but the next person who tries this or learns from it will love you. Thanks for your efforts and sharing.

[RC Randy]

Wow! Nice write up.

[beestoys]

You all are welcome

Still playing with the setup I have noticed a little surge but nothing bad. Very rare but if it starts to get to big I have found that rolling up the throttle just above the setpoint then coming back down slowly settles it. If I find a better setting I'll update. But so far it makes the 40 mile trek to work a lot smoother

[beestoys]

here are a couple updates for you and the last input from me as the unit is working great now

First update

Ok here is the latest update went back and did some adjusting and talked to Tom at Rostra.

It is very important to get the cable slack at 1/8 of an inch it helps to keep the surge under control.

I also redid the control settings after talking to Tom. I set the Engine / Set Up Timer to 8 cylinder low and reset the Gain to Extra Low. This removed the runaway surge I was experiencing.

There still is still some surge on the initial setting, depending on your speed it will be more pronounced. Which makes sense as our bikes make better power as the rpm goes up. What it works out is a surge at 70 of about 3-5 mph for a split second. You may get as many as 6 pulses till it settles but they are very small compared to the first. They are so minor I had to try it a few times to be sure of the number. The most I counted was 6, it usually settles after the initial surge.

Again just letting everyone no so there is no surprise when it first comes on.

Resume can do the same thing I have only noticed if I come in lower that the set speed some times. If you come in high it settles very quickly.

Up and down steps with the accel and coast settings are about 1mph for each time you hit the switch.

and the last

Update 2

OK this should be the last update from me on this.

Made the last change by switching over to the 24000 pulses per mile rate and it took out all but a very minor burp when it first comes up. But then it immediately settles to speed. So that is the last change to the install. Hope someone else can use this and enjoys it as much as I do. Again if you have any questions drop me a line

V/R

Brian

[redxxrdr]

Brian,

I have been sitting on a Audiovox for over a year. Many great write up and pictures have been done, and yours answers some of my remaining questions. I plan to use what I think is the best of each. Now to get off my ass and do it.

Thanks for the great write up.

Craig

[beestoys]

Brian,

I have been sitting on a Audiovox for over a year. Many great write up and pictures have been done, and yours answers some of my remaining questions. I plan to use what I think is the best of each. Now to get off my ass and do it.

Thanks for the great write up.

Craig

Your welcome Craig one thing I would strongly recommend is sourcing the Goldwing control it makes the install easy and stock looking.