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INSTALLING THE PYRAMID HUGGER


TFT

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I'm working on Jackie's bike and just got the chrome wheels I bought from Josh back from having tires mounted on them.

I'm still waiting for the Pyramid hugger from the painter. I don't remember if it is easier to mount the hugger before the wheel is installed or if it even matters. I wanted to get the wheels installed today. I won't have the hugger back for a week or so.

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It's a heck of a lot easier to put the Pyramid on with the wheel off, but I'm pretty sure I was able

to do it with the wheel on, by rotating it in from the rear; just be very careful you don't scratch the

hugger on the undertail, unless you don't care about scratches. I had to remove it when I put

Diablos on the bike, as they rubbed the hugger (Diablos must be larger in diameter than any

other tire). At that time, I did it without the wheel and it was much easier, of course.

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Just my 2 cents on my I observations with my Pyramid CF hugger.

I have a little tire interference with my PP2 tires. Your PR2s should probably be similar in diameter and shape. However, if you have a bit of chain slack that you can take up with the chain adjuster, it would allow you to remove the rear tire a bit rearward, which may alleviate the interference. I also noticed that after installing an 18 tooth front sprocket on the bike (stock chain length) also created the tire interference, when I had to reposition the rear tire forward to allow for proper chain slack. I might consider adding a link or two to the overall chain length on the first chain and sprocket replacement, so that I can reset the axle centerline back to it's factory position.

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Just my 2 cents on my I observations with my Pyramid CF hugger.

I have a little tire interference with my PP2 tires. Your PR2s should probably be similar in diameter and shape. However, if you have a bit of chain slack that you can take up with the chain adjuster, it would allow you to remove the rear tire a bit rearward, which may alleviate the interference. I also noticed that after installing an 18 tooth front sprocket on the bike (stock chain length) also created the tire interference, when I had to reposition the rear tire forward to allow for proper chain slack. I might consider adding a link or two to the overall chain length on the first chain and sprocket replacement, so that I can reset the axle centerline back to it's factory position.

Would having the rear wheel as far forward as possible improve the handling/turning ability of the Bird?

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