Changing Spark Plugs

[MadOx]

WarChild had a link out there for a site that gave thye details on hoe to change plugs but it apprently no lonmger works. Anybody have this information?

[Hobicus]

No pictures, sorry. The below is for the FI models.. the carbed models are similar enough that you should be able to figure it out. When I'm done typing this, I'll find the picture of how the vent/vacuum hoses/etc hook to the fuel petcock and update this post.

You need the stock tool kit. The spark plug tool in it is perfect for this application. This is MUCh easier with the bike on a center stand, because stuff's not tilting. If you have a rear stand instead, that will work too.

Make sure you're low on fuel. Totally makes this MUCH easier.

1) Loosen the 12 mm bolts that hold the tank in place.

2) Lift the tank up, and work the front free, then stand the whole thing up. Place standing up on a towel in the gap between the airbox and rear shock. It will sit there very well, and you don't have to remove anything else from the tank.

3) Remove the philips head screws that hold the airbox together.

4) Remove the connector wire for the airbox pressure sensor

5) Open the airbox. (TIP: If you're in there anyways, replace the air filter!) I usually keep the screws for the airbox inside the airbox lid.

6) There are 6 screws that hold the velocity stacks in place, Remove them, and pull out the velocity stacks.

7) The airbox should be free now.. you'll have to wiggle it from the RAM intakes, and there's 2 vent hoses, on at the top of the airbox, and one on the right (note.. this is for an FI bird... a carbed bird may have more or less, I don't remember.

8) With the bottom of the airbox removed, you should be able to get to the plugs. Note that the PAIR system hoses tend to get in the way, which is why I removed the PAIR system from my bird a long time ago.

The plugs come pre-gapped. DO NOT TRY TO CHECK OR ADJUST THE GAP on the new ones. You'll just fuck up the Iridium coating and cause the plug to wear out early. These plugs are expensive.. but they last.

9) The plug replacement procedure is pretty simple.. work the wire free, use the stock plug tool to remove the plug, put the new plug in the tool, finger tighten.

10) Once it gets snug, only give the plug an additional 1/2 turn with the wrench/socket (10 mm on the end of the plug tool)

11) Repeat the plug replacement for the remaining 3 plugs.

Reassembly is basically the reverse of the above procedure. It can be a bit of a challenge to get the 2 vent hoses in place, and also get the ram ducts in place for the lower part of the airbox. Patience, don't force anything, when it's in the right place, the holes for the velocity stacks will be in the right place.

Note that the velocity stacks are labeled left and right (there's an L and an R in the center of them)

Don't forget to hook up the airbox pressure sensor.. if you don't, you'll get an FI light (for FI models) (been there, done that)

To re-seat the gas tank, put the front in, then wiggle the tank back and forth and push forward, until the bolts line up. Make sure you hold the plastic fairing cowl out of the way on the left and right.

Once you set the gas tank back where it needs to be, I usually start the bike to make sure everything's running before I tighten down the tank.

Any questions, PM or ask here.

[02XXCA]

Just be careful when putting the airbox back on, as to not accidently pinch one of the wires going to the coil. DOn't ask me how I know!

[Hobicus]

Just be careful when putting the airbox back on, as to not accidently pinch one of the wires going to the coil. DOn't ask me how I know!

Tell us about it, Fuesboy!!!