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HID installation pictures?


testrider

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Hi all,

I just bought a set of HID conversion kit and I tried to search for the instructions/pictures used to be on here but couldn't find them anymore.

I'm trying to figure out how to fit the bulb/wiring/rubber to the headlight housing of the XX.

I would appreciate any help.

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I pulled those two loose wires out of the rubber grommet and pushed it forward almost against the HID bulb. Then it'll be used as the spacer that you'll need to clamp the metal bracket against to hold the bulb in place.

And some reading here:

http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...c=55268&hl=

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I pulled those two loose wires out of the rubber grommet and pushed it forward almost against the HID bulb. Then it'll be used as the spacer that you'll need to clamp the metal bracket against to hold the bulb in place.

And some reading here:

http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...c=55268&hl=

Thanks Justin,

I appreciate it. So you didn't have to use a garden hose washers to shim the bulb base? Cool.

One more question: did the OEM rubber cover everything up (bulb+rubber grommet+power wires) like before?

I'm going to install it this weekend and will take some pics.

-mike-

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I appreciate it. So you didn't have to use a garden hose washers to shim the bulb base? Cool.

One more question: did the OEM rubber cover everything up (bulb+rubber grommet+power wires) like before?

No problem Mike. Did not need the garden hose trick. I still used the OEM boot, was not a perfect fit - but close.

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Perhaps this isn't too useful, but here are pix of a Xentec setup.

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I did use the garden hose washer scheme. In fact, two were required for each headlamp.

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The wire grommets fit nicely into the boots. At least they did for me.

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The ballasts are fastened to the fairing with "Industrial Strength" Velcro. Were I doing this over again, the ballasts would be aligned with the edge of the fairing, not a half inch away. That would make the connectors at the ends of the shorter cables more accessible.

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What you're looking at was taken right after my first attempt at reinstalling the upper fairing. I was working by myself, and quickly discovered that I needed at least four hands to keep wires and cables organized. So duct tape and twist ties were required.

Things worth doing or remembering:

1. Take a moment to put the bike on its centerstand around 15 feet from a wall. Turn on the headlight and use masking tape or something similar to mark the top edge of the low beam on the wall. If there's a visible bright spot indicating the center of the low beam in the horizontal direction, mark that too. If you'll be moving the bike to work on it, then mark the location of the centerstand with tape before you move it. Once your HIDs are working, you can easily align the headlight by using your tape reference marks. Looking at the back of the headlamp housing, the upper left knob is for vertical adjustment. You'll need a long arm and a little patience.

2. Presumably you'll reinstall the fairing before making the final connections. You can give yourself additional maneuvering room by placing the rearmost of each pair of fairing holes over the frontmost of the two bosses into which the mirror mounting screws thread.

I completed all the wiring with the fairing in this forward position. Once both lights were working satisfactorily, I moved the fairing to its proper position. The very last step was to mount the two transformers (the small black boxes on the longer cables) to the air intake ducts. Once again, Velcro was used.

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Thanks! Your pictures help a lot!

- like Juxxtin, you pulled out the 2 power wires and connected them to the original OEM connector (that didn't show in the pic)?

- Do the washers go **behind** the bulb? (I mean, between the back of the bulb and the rubber grommet? Or between the bulb and the headlight housing?)

Thanks!

-mike-

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I suspect that whoever assembled your kit stuffed the spade terminals through the grommet simply to keep things together. That pair of wires should definitely be pulled out of the grommet.

I placed the washers behind the lamps. At the time, I did it that way simply because the lamps were already in the housing. But now that I think about it, it seems possible that the light might not be quite as well focused if the lamp is moved back by the thickness of the washers.

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Thank you all, for your great help and support. I just finished installing the HID on my 97 XX. Here are some pics.

Notes:

- after removing the windshield, the 2 side covers under the dash, and removing 3 bolts that hold the dash, the whole dash can be lifted up and the back of the headlight was fully accessible.

- while installing it, I also installed a switch on the positive power light so I can turn it ON/OFF manually.

- I didn't use any washer. I push the rubber grommet of the HID all the way against the bulb and it was a perfect fit (see pic)

- I also installed my 'emergency lights' mod. Just like those flashing emergency signal lights on the car. I wired it directly to the battery so I can leave it flashing with the ignition off. I bought 2 hazard flasher (model #552) from Autozone for $3 a piece. Then tapped onto the front left turn signal wire with 1 flasher, another flasher tapped to the right front signal wire. Power goes from the battery to a switch, then from this switch it goes to both flashers. You can do it with 1 flasher if you can find a DPST (dual pole single throw) switch. I couldn't find one so I use a SPST (single pole) and I had to use 2 flashers to keep the left and right side separate. Remember to get the #552 flasher, it's for variable loads. That means, it can flash from 1 to 6 bulbs. The signal flasher won't work because they usually were designed to flash 2 bulbs and when 1 bulb goes out, it stops flashing.

- I zip-tie the ballast on the left side, behind the left front cover.

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