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Are our shifter & rear brake levers adjustable?


Fonzie

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I put those Buell pegs on before NeXXt, when I thought I was gonna be riding over by myself. After riding around town a little, & down to Jim Beam last weekend for almost a 700 mile day......I think they're more comfortable, but I have to "reach" farther to the levers.....Awkwardly so. I don't feel comfortable at all in the twisties. Have to think about it too much, rather than concentrating on the road

In fact......I had my feet so far forward on the pegs last weekend to make sure I could reach, that I scraped the bottom of my boot in a hard left/right....the sole, not the side......on pavement. Scared the shit out of me at first!

So are the levers adjustable, and if I monkey with them, will I screw anything up? I know I accidentally put my shifter on upside down on my old Yami after replacing the stator......And had GP shift for a bit 'til I figured out my mistake :icon_rolleyes:

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Shifter is easy to adjust remove the bolt pull the shifter off and put it where you want it. Foot brake is adjustable as well if I remember right, I seem to remember someone pulling off the foot guard/peg to adjust the brake on the rear. I think they had to cut a bolt to shorten it enough after the buell pegs but I could be wrong

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Shifter is easy to adjust remove the bolt pull the shifter off and put it where you want it. Foot brake is adjustable as well if I remember right, I seem to remember someone pulling off the foot guard/peg to adjust the brake on the rear. I think they had to cut a bolt to shorten it enough after the buell pegs but I could be wrong

If I can do it anyone can. I assume you mean up and down adjustable. Loosen the two bolts that hold the master cylinder to give you a little "wiggle room". to adjust the brake, remove the tiny cotter pin from the clevis at the back of the lever. Then screw the clevis all the way to the top. (I took the locknut off, too, I don't know what it does since the clevis can't turn anyway.) that lowers the pedal all the way.

I took a Dremel and cut the end of the rod off since it now blocked the pin replacement. (you only need to cut about 1/4")

Part two: Now that you lowered the brake pedal, your brake light comes on too soon. The switch is controlled by a spring and wire that run to the switch behind your right heel. I found it easiest to remove the spring from the pedal. Lift the switch out of it's holder, and turn the black plastic adjusting ring all the way up against the switch body. Replace and enjoy.

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The brake lever procedure is the only one that is not as immediately obvious. As stated above, while you can reindex the shift lever on it's splines, the brake lever is limited in it's adjustment by a squared threaded section on the activation rod. Once you follow the procedure stated above to remove the lever, you will have to trim about 1/4 to 3/8" off of the squared of section of the threaded push rod. Now you can reinstall the brake pedal arm to a lower position (where you want it). This will cause the brake light activation spring to be pulled to the on position all the time. To remedy that you will have to screw the plastic brake light switch housing downward till the brake light comes off. Then test the brake lever and make sure the tail/brake lights activate properly.

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Yes, I'm adjustable. Pete never let me see the other side of the bike (Another of the reasons I left), so I can't help much with the brake lever.

As I remember, the brake lever was a bit of an asshole, it didn't talk much. You'd think it would.. we have so much in common.

I was hoping you might reply in here Pete's Shifter, as I figure you're the expert on what you're capabilities are! Sorry to hear that brake lever was such a dick to you! You're right.....You both have Pete's stinky feet in common!! :icon_twisted:

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Or you can adjust the bolt to the stop as is and use a flame wrench to reshape your brake pedal slightly like I did... :icon_whistle:

(I got another brake pedal and used it to experiment off the bike....works great :icon_biggrin: )

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