John01XX Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 They do draw less after they are on, but takes a bunch more for just an instant to fire them off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warp11XX Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 With low beam HID the following conditions make the HID light flicker and pulse from low power, even after the ignitor has already fired the bulb. -When the cooling fan is running on the bike at idle -With heated gear and the high beams on when at idle Basically the xx generator isn't enough at idle to juice much accessories. Where was this reply when I asked a year ago? :icon_snooty: Gee thanks..... Flickering HID's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rider99XX Posted July 26, 2008 Share Posted July 26, 2008 PM sent with payment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JuXXtin Posted July 27, 2008 Author Share Posted July 27, 2008 PM sent with payment. Got it, will send it out on Monday or Tuesday to you... this is where I installed the ballast fyi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rider99XX Posted July 27, 2008 Share Posted July 27, 2008 Nice clean installation Justin. Probably where I'll mount mine also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
runner Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 Excellent write-up...I see LB and HB HID's in the near future coming my way.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearXX Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 PM sent with payment. Got it, will send it out on Monday or Tuesday to you... this is where I installed the ballast fyi. So the easiest way is to remove the windscreen? or do I have to take of the front? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JuXXtin Posted July 28, 2008 Author Share Posted July 28, 2008 Excellent write-up...I see LB and HB HID's in the near future coming my way.... Runner, you'll hv no regrets... :icon_thumbsup: So the easiest way is to remove the windscreen? or do I have to take of the front? I've been doing other things at the same time so I have quite a bit apart... but I think at minimum, the windscreen and dash. I didn't remove the dash completely, just removed the mounting nuts and moved (w/harness still connected) towards the triple to get it out of the way. I also re-routed the large harness that you see in the picture away from the where the ballast was installed and moved it going through the center of the stay. If you use that spot for a ballast, one of the windscreen bolts will be very close to the corner so just be aware of that closeness when doing your final securing. Also, it'll be even trickier if mounting two ballasts under there. :icon_shifty: It can be done though, just trickier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearXX Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 Excellent write-up...I see LB and HB HID's in the near future coming my way.... Runner, you'll hv no regrets... :icon_thumbsup: So the easiest way is to remove the windscreen? or do I have to take of the front? I've been doing other things at the same time so I have quite a bit apart... but I think at minimum, the windscreen and dash. I didn't remove the dash completely, just removed the mounting nuts and moved (w/harness still connected) towards the triple to get it out of the way. I also re-routed the large harness that you see in the picture away from the where the ballast was installed and moved it going through the center of the stay. If you use that spot for a ballast, one of the windscreen bolts will be very close to the corner so just be aware of that closeness when doing your final securing. Also, it'll be even trickier if mounting two ballasts under there. :icon_shifty: It can be done though, just trickier. I'll only use one set on each bike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JuXXtin Posted July 29, 2008 Author Share Posted July 29, 2008 I'll only use one set on each bike You're golden!... that part was meant for Runner above with thoughts of LB/HB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TuffguyF4i Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 I thought the HID's drew less current than the stock bulbs They do...heres the problem. Normal bulbs will just burn less brightly when they are lacking power. The HID's have a minimum voltage/current that they need in order to burn. They are either getting it, or not getting it. When they reach the min voltage they go out, and that is when the ignitor tries to fire them again. Naturally, it will not work, since you need more power to fire then the minimum burn. So you get a flicker that doesn't stop till you rev the engine and decrease your power consumption. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rider99XX Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 I wonder :icon_think: if any of the electrical gurus on here could come up with something, maybe a capacitor set up or something to help cut down on the flickering at low RPM. Something to give the HID set up a reserve to store power to compensate for the lower power output at low rpms or while other farkles are being used taking away precious voltage needed to run the HIDs. Just a thought. Maybe the better mousetrap theory :icon_think: Or is the flickering not that big a deal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearXX Posted July 31, 2008 Share Posted July 31, 2008 This one came today. Looks ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JuXXtin Posted July 31, 2008 Author Share Posted July 31, 2008 maybe a capacitor set up or something to help cut down on the flickering at low RPM. My experience has been, if the bike is operating normal with good batt/rr/stator/etc... no flicker. This one came today. Yep, looks just like the one I got. I pulled the two wires that connect to the H7 bike harness back out of the rubber washer/seal. Then pushed the rubber seal all the way up against the bulb, then strapped in the bulb into position. So it's basically used as a washer to help keep the bulb in position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TuffguyF4i Posted July 31, 2008 Share Posted July 31, 2008 maybe a capacitor set up or something to help cut down on the flickering at low RPM. My experience has been, if the bike is operating normal with good batt/rr/stator/etc... no flicker. Not the case for me. My batt and RR are sound as a pound. I monitor my voltage constantly with a live display. Still get the flicker when running accessories or the fan is on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman_40 Posted July 31, 2008 Share Posted July 31, 2008 I was at a show and shine in town here lastnight and one of the guys had installed a Voltage Stablizer in his car, apparently it helps to keep a constant voltage output from the battery/alternator. Instead of power flucturating between 13.5-15V is helps to keep it at a constanct voltage. He claimed to get 30Km more per tank of fuel and he thinks he got a slight power increase at lower RPMs. When I first talked to him I figured he was full of crap but it does make some since when I think about it. Since the sensors in the car don't have fancy power supplies on them the voltage change on the input would change the voltage the computer was reading on the output. That MAY help make the computer more accuate. May also help with HID flickering issues. Seems to be lots of different ones for sale but if your headlights flickering is bothering you it might be something to solve the issue. I'd say that it IF is does work, it would likely help more on a bike then a car as the amount of power the bike can make is MUCH lower. VOLTAGE STABILIZER THEORY The Alternator's duty is to produce Electrical Power to run the engine and other Electrical Equipment and charge the Battery. The voltage range produce by an Alternator is 13.3V to 15.3V. You may notice that the Alternator does not produce an ideal fixed Voltage, this fluctuation of voltage is called ripper. This ripper will cause the voltage signal of the sensors and actuators to fluctuate as well, be it that it had been transformed to 5V range for the Electronics. The Voltage Stabilizer's duty is to minimize this fluctuation of voltage. The effect of this will be more crisp signal to and from sensors and actuators. This will allow the ECU to more accurate in term of decision making. Therefore more efficient engine output. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rider99XX Posted August 2, 2008 Share Posted August 2, 2008 VERY impressed with this HID kit. EASY installation and nice WHITE light. I have a Super White zenon bulb for my HB that is VERY white compared to the stock bulbs and this HID light is a lot whiter than it is. I pretty much don't need the HB anymore. It fills in a spot on the ground just in front of the bike. Best $35 I've spent in a long time. Now I need to get a set for my wife's FZR 1000. Thanks Jason!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearXX Posted August 3, 2008 Share Posted August 3, 2008 VERY impressed with this HID kit. EASY installation and nice WHITE light. I have a Super White zenon bulb for my HB that is VERY white compared to the stock bulbs and this HID light is a lot whiter than it is. I pretty much don't need the HB anymore. It fills in a spot on the ground just in front of the bike. Best $35 I've spent in a long time. Now I need to get a set for my wife's FZR 1000. Thanks Jason!! +1 Fitted both bikes today with the HID kit, and what a difference :icon_thumbsup: $80 to Norway shipped and taxes. 1/2 price of what the sell in the stores. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.