Scated Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 Yes, I've read the posts. This weekend I'm going to a wrenchfest with the local club, TSBA, to do some maintenance. On the agenda is a change of fluids in the clutch and brake resevoirs, and a suspension set for sag. The bleeding process - anything I need to know here besides the procedure in the manual? I have shimmed the rear up about 5mm and really enjoyed the result. Since I'm going to correctly set the sag, just the rear right?, I was considering dropping the front maybe 3mm? The bike has helibars on it and the tubes are flush at this point. I enjoy trying to make the big girl turn out here in the hill country around San Antonio and use it to commute daily. I rarely venture into the + 150 category. Thoughts? Thanks for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scated Posted August 9, 2007 Author Share Posted August 9, 2007 Yes, I've read the posts. This weekend I'm going to a wrenchfest with the local club, TSBA, to do some maintenance. On the agenda is a change of fluids in the clutch and brake resevoirs, and a suspension set for sag. The bleeding process - anything I need to know here besides the procedure in the manual? I have shimmed the rear up about 5mm and really enjoyed the result. Since I'm going to correctly set the sag, just the rear right?, I was considering dropping the front maybe 3mm? The bike has helibars on it and the tubes are flush at this point. I enjoy trying to make the big girl turn out here in the hill country around San Antonio and use it to commute daily. I rarely venture into the + 150 category. Thoughts? Thanks for the help! Sorry, specifics... '02 Bird completely stock suspension besides the shim 19K on the bike I'm 220 geared up yes, I will eventually do springs, oil, and a rear shock but not for a while I haven't changed the fork oil so I should probably do that - would this be a good time to change the weight? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunedain Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 You need to look at both the rear and the front or your total suspension package as a whole. In other words you need to check sag for both......it should be about 25mm with you on the bike. I assume since adjustability seems out on the fronts thats why you were not going to measure but you can adjust your preload fairly easy. Just cut a different length spacer and replace the one you have longer or shorter depending on your pre-load needs. My2cents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcrich Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 Moving the forks in the triples and setting sag ( preload) are entirely different things. Read and learn grasshopper. Linky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scated Posted August 10, 2007 Author Share Posted August 10, 2007 Moving the forks in the triples and setting sag ( preload) are entirely different things. Read and learn grasshopper. Linky I understand that difference I guess the question primarily on the dropping the trees a little is what the effect will be having already shimmed 5mm in the back? Anyone got an opinion about the right weight oil for the stock forks / level? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 My bike was shimmed 6mm in the back and dropped 5mm in front- no issues with stability up to 170 or so, on a closed course, naturally. Oh, I guess I should answer the question- the bike will steer a little quicker. Dropping the front won't yield the dramatic results that shimming the rear does, but it will quicken it a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunedain Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 Anyone got an opinion about the right weight oil for the stock forks / level? Thanks! I use the lightest I can find and do all my damping with the valves. I use like a 2.5-5wt my oil level is 120mm, spring out and slider tube completely down in fork tube. You have to exercise the damping rod a couple of good strokes to get all the air out of it. I should qualify I'm race-teched so stock may be a little different. I would be not that much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SR71BLACKBIRDXX Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 The bleeding process - anything I need to know here besides the procedure in the manual? Yup...make sure you have one of these handy... Mityvac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcrich Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 I understand that difference I guess the question primarily on the dropping the trees a little is what the effect will be having already shimmed 5mm in the back? Anyone got an opinion about the right weight oil for the stock forks / level? Thanks! Sorry, guess I read your question wrong, carry on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scated Posted August 12, 2007 Author Share Posted August 12, 2007 I understand that difference I guess the question primarily on the dropping the trees a little is what the effect will be having already shimmed 5mm in the back? Anyone got an opinion about the right weight oil for the stock forks / level? Thanks! Sorry, guess I read your question wrong, carry on. Ok, thought I'd share some stuff that was interesting to me: 1) Changing fluid on the linked brake was interesting and required a good amount of fluid 2) Dropped the triple trees (already did 5 mm shim in the rear). The interesting part is that when I bought my bike it already had Helibars and they were flush with the top of the cap. I thought that was the same as stock, not so. Stock, according to the service manual, was 39mm from the deck of the top triple clamp. The way mine was set up was at 36mm. We dropped it to 43mm to see what happens. 3) Had a guy there that specialized in suspension set up. Surprisingly, I'm 210 Lbs., he said the Spring Rate was pretty close to being right. The fork settled in at 36mm of sag but a little much stiction. I know it's stock and not had the oil changed. The rear spring, as we all know, is too light. Spun the ring all the way and got to 38mm sag. Out of two turns on the rear shock damper settled on 1/2 turn out from lock. Overall, learned a lot about a lot today. Support the local club, very beneficial! TSBA San Antonio Going on a group ride tomorrow out towards Leakey to see if the Big ol' girl turns more confidently. Yes, I'll be careful. I know that was a significant drop up front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fast Eddy Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 So how did it go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scated Posted August 17, 2007 Author Share Posted August 17, 2007 So how did it go? Unfortunately our ride was abbreviated when a new guy to our group lost it on some gravel in a corner heading for Leakey. He got air lifted but only had a broken colar bone. His Ducati Monster on the other hand... totaled. That took a couple of hours to get cleaned up and as we mounted to go get something to eat this sweet looking young lady came through the same spot, great form. She had been riding for 15 years. Her boyfriend, a chiropractor with 3 months riding experience, then proceeded to pirouette off in the same spot. It was a very long day and we never even got to the good part of the riding. From what I could tell the bike turned in a little more quickly. It was not as noticeable as the shim but I think it helped? I didn't notice any stability or head shake issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.