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I don't know what tires you have but I run 40psi front, 42psi rear for commuting and 34psi front, 38psi rear for track days and aggresive riding.

.............. And welcome aboard!!!!! :icon_wave:

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Standard tire pressures are 42F/42R.

In my opinion this gives too harsh a ride. I am 200 lbs and run 38F/40R for general riding, 34/36 for aggressive stuff and 38/42 when fully laden with about 100 lbs of luggage on a trip. I also run Pilot Roads front and rear.

The 42/42 recommendation is probably caused by the top speed potential of the bike which is in excess of 170 mph. Since 99% of my riding is at speeds of 100 mph or lower, I don't see the need.

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Standard tire pressures are 42F/42R.

In my opinion this gives too harsh a ride. I am 200 lbs and run 38F/40R for general riding, 34/36 for aggressive stuff and 38/42 when fully laden with about 100 lbs of luggage on a trip. I also run Pilot Roads front and rear.

The 42/42 recommendation is probably caused by the top speed potential of the bike which is in excess of 170 mph. Since 99% of my riding is at speeds of 100 mph or lower, I don't see the need.

So why do you drop the pressures to 34/36 for aggressive riding - wouldn't the tyre deform more and ruin the handling :icon_confused:

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Standard tire pressures are 42F/42R.

In my opinion this gives too harsh a ride. I am 200 lbs and run 38F/40R for general riding, 34/36 for aggressive stuff and 38/42 when fully laden with about 100 lbs of luggage on a trip. I also run Pilot Roads front and rear.

The 42/42 recommendation is probably caused by the top speed potential of the bike which is in excess of 170 mph. Since 99% of my riding is at speeds of 100 mph or lower, I don't see the need.

So why do you drop the pressures to 34/36 for aggressive riding - wouldn't the tyre deform more and ruin the handling :icon_confused:

Depends on the tire and how it's constructed.

I run the power race at 29-31F 22-24R and Powers at 29-31F/R at the track.

The idea is to get the tires up to their design temp. If you go to low yes the sidewall will start to collapse. For the street you won't be pushing hard enough to justify dropping them that far.

If I'm slabbing it or loaded I run stock pressures 42/42. Keeps the tires cooler and they last longer.

For fun I run about the same as shovel does but with the powers.

It all depends on your riding conditions, there's no right pressure for all conditions/tire combination.

Basic rule:

For mileage straight up run stock pressures. keeps the tire cooler.

For aggressive street riding drop the pressure. Will heat the tire up and increase grip, to a point. (you need to find the pressure that works with your tires/suspension & style. Drop a couple pounds and ride it, then try no more than a pound at a time checking the condition of your tires after each run.) In the strictest terms, anytime you change brand or style of tire you may need to change your suspension geometry.

In the rain you should run stock because the tire's never going to heat up any way and you want those grooves wide open.

YMMV

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There is a secondary factor to running the lower pressure and that is compliance. In addition to the increased carcass flex allowing the tire to come up to temperature sooner, that same flex is what allows the tire to conform to the myriad little bumps on the road. If the pressure is too high, the tire will skip over those same bumps and produce less overall traction. In fact, when you are healed over very hard, the tire is about all the suspension you have. As lean angles increase, the angle of incidence between the suspension and the road is reduced causing, effectively, the suspension to stiffen. It doesn't really stiffen it is just that compression forces are no longer in line with the spring axes and thus the leverage is reduced.

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There is a secondary factor to running the lower pressure and that is compliance. In addition to the increased carcass flex allowing the tire to come up to temperature sooner, that same flex is what allows the tire to conform to the myriad little bumps on the road. If the pressure is too high, the tire will skip over those same bumps and produce less overall traction. In fact, when you are healed over very hard, the tire is about all the suspension you have. As lean angles increase, the angle of incidence between the suspension and the road is reduced causing, effectively, the suspension to stiffen. It doesn't really stiffen it is just that compression forces are no longer in line with the spring axes and thus the leverage is reduced.

well said

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