Chain Lube - Hypoid Gear Oil + Lucas Oil Stabilizer

[MrBadExxample]

I wonder if adding oil stabilizer to hypoid gear oil will help it adhere to a chain better (less fling-off)? I'm gonna try this. The oil stabilizer I have is really sticky stuff, think of hot mozzarella cheese. Personally I think Lucas's claims about their oil stabilizer are horse crap, but it does seem to help oil stick better. Which, for a chain, is a good thing.

[airborneXX]

I wonder if adding oil stabilizer to hypoid gear oil will help it adhere to a chain better (less fling-off)? I'm gonna try this. The oil stabilizer I have is really sticky stuff, think of hot mozzarella cheese. Personally I think Lucas's claims about their oil stabilizer are horse crap, but it does seem to help oil stick better. Which, for a chain, is a good thing.

I use 80-90 wt. gear oil that I apply with a small drip bottle. I get almost no fling off and the little that does wipes right off. I got the idea off Walt at SeXXT last year, and I haven't used spray lube since.

[MrBadExxample]

I use 80-90 wt. gear oil that I apply with a small drip bottle. I get almost no fling off and the little that does wipes right off. I got the idea off Walt at SeXXT last year, and I haven't used spray lube since.

I too like the hypoid gear oil 80-90w and won't change anytime soon. But I think adding the stabilizer will help it stick even better, or maybe I should put less on, hmmmmm.....

[jcrich]

What you messing around with that.

Maxima Chain Wax......done.

[BackStreet]

I was out of Maxima Chain Wax so I tried some gear oil.

I cleaned off the "drips" the next day and went for a ride.

When I got back oil was everywhere including my tire.

As soon as the chain got hot and the oil got thin - if flies off from between the links / rollers.

The chain was nice and clean though. So were parts of the bike I never had to clean before.

Next ride will be to the bike shop to get some more Maxima Chain Wax.

[rcskisfast]

I use PJ-1 Blue label clear chain lube. If you apply it when the chain is warm and then let it cool it minimizes fling off.

[airborneXX]

I was out of Maxima Chain Wax so I tried some gear oil.

I cleaned off the "drips" the next day and went for a ride.

When I got back oil was everywhere including my tire.

As soon as the chain got hot and the oil got thin - if flies off from between the links / rollers.

The chain was nice and clean though. So were parts of the bike I never had to clean before.

Next ride will be to the bike shop to get some more Maxima Chain Wax.

Drips?? You put waaaay too much on.

[EVLXX]

First off.......ask yourself what is the lube for ?

Is it to lubricate the metal to metal contacts ? Not really.

Is it to keep the O-rings soft and flexible so that they won't shrink, crack, or break ? Yes.

And anything that is sticky will catch and hold microscopic particles of dirt, thus turning into a nice polishing compound. Which is causeing increased wear.

So... you're on the right track, by trying to modify or improve Gear lube for heavy duty chain use, but you're adding the wrong product. What you need is a heavy duty DRY friction modifier. So that when the majority of the oil is gone you still have something that is lubricating the rollers, to minimize the heat build up created by the friction of the dry parts, but NOT something that's going to grab and hold foriegn particles.

The answer.... Moly.

I mix 90% gear oil with 10% of GD-451.

Works great.

Here's a link for you.... http://www.guarddogmoly.com/gd451.shtml

[scottw]

I wonder if adding oil stabilizer to hypoid gear oil will help it adhere to a chain better (less fling-off)? I'm gonna try this. The oil stabilizer I have is really sticky stuff, think of hot mozzarella cheese. Personally I think Lucas's claims about their oil stabilizer are horse crap, but it does seem to help oil stick better. Which, for a chain, is a good thing.

I use 80-90 wt. gear oil that I apply with a small drip bottle. I get almost no fling off and the little that does wipes right off. I got the idea off Walt at SeXXT last year, and I haven't used spray lube since.

[/quote

I use Mobile 1 Synthetic 75W-90 gear oil as a chain lube. Use it on my VFR and now the BB. I won't even try to tell of the chain life I got on the VFR because you wouldn't believe me. Time (and miles) will only tell on the BB.

[Harald]

I've been using plain old WD40 for years now. I've got 30,000 miles on the original chain and it's not worn out yet. I got the idea from a article I read years ago and one of the chain manufacturers reps recommended WD40. It makes sense because a O-ring chain is permanently lubed in the rollers. The O-rings keep lube in and dirt out. So you just need to keep the chain clean and stop it from rusting. WD40 performs both functions (it's not actually a lubricant).

I ride year 'round in the rain here in Seattle and the biggest problem is having to apply WD40 almost daily in the winter when I get home from work because the rain has washed any protection off the chain. Maybe that chain wax will work better? How does it hold up in the rain?

[airborneXX]

I need to correct my gear oil weight. It's 85-140 wt Valvoline. Sorry for the mistake!

[cbrxxquad]

I use silicone spray. Comes from riding in the sand. If you lube with oil based,sand sticks and kills the o rings. Silicone prevents anything from sticking and protects the o rings and the o rings keep the grease in.

Never had a chain fail. Hell never wore one out.

[TOXXIC]

Harold,

Welcome to the forum. I've used WD40 for years to clean engine cases, especially the ones on my police Kz1000. Nice to see another wet weather rider here!

[EVLXX]

I use silicone spray. Comes from riding in the sand. If you lube with oil based,sand sticks and kills the o rings. Silicone prevents anything from sticking and protects the o rings and the o rings keep the grease in.

Never had a chain fail. Hell never wore one out.

Very interesting....

I've used silicon spray on almost all of the rubber parts on my cars for years, especially the weather stripping and window moldings.

And yes... it keeps the rubber nice and soft, without any side effects.

It would only make sense that it would work great on a chian as well.

I think I'l try it.... spray it down with silicone first, let dry, then shoot it with some dry moly rust, wear , and heat protection.

Shit... if this works... I won't have to clean my rear wheel anymore.

Thanks Stan !

[cbrxxquad]

I use silicone spray. Comes from riding in the sand. If you lube with oil based,sand sticks and kills the o rings. Silicone prevents anything from sticking and protects the o rings and the o rings keep the grease in.

Never had a chain fail. Hell never wore one out.

Very interesting....

I've used silicon spray on almost all of the rubber parts on my cars for years, especially the weather stripping and window moldings.

And yes... it keeps the rubber nice and soft, without any side effects.

It would only make sense that it would work great on a chian as well.

I think I'l try it.... spray it down with silicone first, let dry, then shoot it with some dry moly rust, wear , and heat protection.

Shit... if this works... I won't have to clean my rear wheel anymore.

Thanks Stan !

Hey I owe ya, Eric, been modifying your program lately. Had to lean it at idle, but I think it is because I have resistor plugs with the nology ign. . Going to change to the non-resistor and see if it richens. The rest is all 13.5 afr.

I wonder if graphite might be another to try, after seeing what your doing.

[MileHi]

I've been using leftover oil from my oil changes... Kind of a 15W-45... Once I got thge Pro-oiler adjusted right, there's not too much fling and it wipes off the wheel easy enough. I do like Eric's idea with the dry lube additive... Gonna give that a try...

[EVLXX]

Hey I owe ya, Eric,

... been modifying your program lately. Had to lean it at idle, but I think it is because I have resistor plugs with the nology ign. . Going to change to the non-resistor and see if it richens. The rest is all 13.5 afr.

I wonder if graphite might be another to try, after seeing what your doing.

Nah... you don't owe me shit... I'm just glad to help and share, with a fellow spychotic.

I did dome more meesing with the map at the end of last year... but seem to have misplaced, my results.

I'll PM you later about the rest... gotta get back to my springtime general maintenance.

[EVLXX]

I've been using leftover oil from my oil changes... Kind of a 15W-45... Once I got thge Pro-oiler adjusted right, there's not too much fling and it wipes off the wheel easy enough. I do like Eric's idea with the dry lube additive... Gonna give that a try...

Before you go jumping in to that.... I should clarify...

By Dry lube... I was referring to Moly. Because Moly is one of a very few materials that will stick to metal after the carrier is gone and continue to lubricate under ultra extreme pressures and prevent corossion. But to my knowledge you have to buy it in a pre-suspended form. Hence why I use the stuff from GuardDog, and mix it with my oil.

[MileHi]

I've been using leftover oil from my oil changes... Kind of a 15W-45... Once I got thge Pro-oiler adjusted right, there's not too much fling and it wipes off the wheel easy enough. I do like Eric's idea with the dry lube additive... Gonna give that a try...

Before you go jumping in to that.... I should clarify...

By Dry lube... I was referring to Moly. Because Moly is one of a very few materials that will stick to metal after the carrier is gone and continue to lubricate under ultra extreme pressures and prevent corossion. But to my knowledge you have to buy it in a pre-suspended form. Hence why I use the stuff from GuardDog, and mix it with my oil.

Understood... That's why the 8 oz. bottle of the oil additive caught my eye. That should last quite a while with the Pro-oiler.

[oldgeezer]

I recently had my chain & sprockets changed at 24K miles (original

chain & sprockets), but the mechanic (and friend) said the chain and

sprockets were still good for another 6K miles. That = 30K miles. All

I've ever used was WD40 for cleaning and 90 wt. hypoid gear oil. I

have used other chain waxes on occasion for convenience and non-

flinging properties, but other than that, I saw no differences in pro-

longed chain life resulting from wax vs. 90 wt. oil. Once I tried the PJ1

(black label) and my God, that was the nastiest, stickiest stuff I've

ever used in my life. It might lube well but I tossed it in the garbage.

Speaking of moly, Honda has an oil with moly. Actually there are two

types of HP4, one with moly and one without. I used the HP4 without

moly in the engine, but since moly was mentioned, I wonder how the

HP4 with moly would work on the chain? Probably too light an oil with

the heaviest HP4 being 10W50.

[Crazy Dave]

I clean my chain with diesel fuel that has some 10/40 mixed in. After drying, I let the bike idle in 1st gear and lightly apply some rear end lube along the top of the links on both sides of the chain and then a bit to the center of the rollers.

I let that sit for a minute and wipe off any drips. Then I apply chain wax to sorta seal the oil in. That way the chain has plenty of lube and the wax keeps it in.

[MileHi]

I thought that I'd ressurect this thread. I found that the DuPont Teflon spray really quiets the chain, but eventually gets diluted with my Pro-Oiler. So I tried mixing some of the non aerosol with the oil in the resevoir. That didn't work as the teflon settled out. That got me thinking again. I have a quart of Grease Lightning (like Slick 50) that is a teflon suspended in a 10w-30 oil base. So... I cleaned my chain and filled the Pro-Oiler with that stuff. The chain still gets a shot of oil and teflon. Gonna try this for a while and see if it makes a difference.