TuffguyF4i Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 What is the best way to swap out the plugs,,, method of attack? From the side, top, or bottom? You clearly need to remove fairings. What about the radiator and or tank? I assume it has NGK's in it. Are they the best replacement? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airborneXX Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 What is the best way to swap out the plugs,,, method of attack? From the side, top, or bottom? You clearly need to remove fairings. What about the radiator and or tank? I assume it has NGK's in it. Are they the best replacement? Thanks! Remove the tank and airbox, and use the spark plug tool in your tool kit. I use the NGK plugs. What year is your XX? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBadExxample Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 It's a 99. So use the NGK Iridiums, number CR9EHIX-9. And for God's sake don't over tighten them. It's a steel plug going into an Aluminum head, guess which one will strip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted March 7, 2007 Share Posted March 7, 2007 Linky Props to Warchild, as always Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feelergaugephil Posted March 8, 2007 Share Posted March 8, 2007 Guess what I'll be doing this weekend then!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Ergal Posted March 8, 2007 Share Posted March 8, 2007 You don't need to remove fairing, but "only" tank and airbox. It's more simple that you can imagine... Little suggest: instead of NGK CR9EHVX-9 (platinum elements) it's possible to use NGK CR9EH-9; they costs (in Italy) about 9 euro each and the difference is negligible. I've been using'em on my '01 Fireblade for three years, using it only on circuit (I attended also three races) without encountering any problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beondwacko Posted March 8, 2007 Share Posted March 8, 2007 It took me less than 1 hour the first time I did it. I didn't think it was too terrible. That was from the top method. Be carefull with the screws that hold the throttle body velocity stacks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gcp Posted March 8, 2007 Share Posted March 8, 2007 Question is will either spark plug (CR9EHIX-9 or CR9EHI-9) work as effectivelly in an 97 BB? Which of the two should I order and from where? Thanks, gcp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redxxrdr Posted March 8, 2007 Share Posted March 8, 2007 Ride it until you are almost out of gas. That tank is heavy, even half full. I have used soft foam or a heavy quilt to prop the tank on. Follow Warchilds directions, and you will be riding in a hour. Two if you take time to clean the airfilter and change oil. Remember, don't gap the plugs. They should be gapped from the dealer, and the fine electrodes are easily damaged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Para045 Posted March 8, 2007 Share Posted March 8, 2007 Linky Props to Warchild, as always +1 Well I changed mine a couple of weeks ago at ~ 49000km and I have done ~17000 on mine ( not sure how many before I bought the bike ). I used the write up by Warchild to help with the change as the manual has you removing the nose cone, radiator/oil cooler and lots of other unnecessary stuff and it was very helpfull. The only things I found different from the write up was that on my carb bird - I just removed the tank as it was easier than mucking around propping it up ( espescially as I went and filled it the night before ), there was no Pair system at all , there are 9 screws in the air cleaner cover not 7 and no IAT sensor, there is no bracket for the coils just the two bolts through plastic lugs on the airbox, I needed to remove the infill panels to get the airbox with the ram ducts out and there are no " intake funnels " on top of the air box. The spark plug socket in the stock tool kit and a 10/12mm ring spanner that goes over the hex shaft on the SP socket were invaluable. I do not know whether you could get a normal plug socket and extension in there ( certainly a 1/2 drive would not fit ) maybe a 3/8 or 1/4 drive and socket It actually looks like a bigger job than it is - it took me ~ 2 1/4 hr but I had never removed the tank before, next time I reckon under an hour :icon_think: The plugs did not look that bad even though they were a little dark but I have noticed a lot stronger midrange punch since replacing my plugs, she is back to lofting the front in first and second . I will be interested to see whether my economy improves ( the first few tanks full didn't but there was quite a bit of running the bike without going anywhere on the first and I am really having fun using that extra midrange ) BTW can someone clarify which plugs are correct - my manual and WC's site say CR9EHVX-9, I have seen other posts where they are quoted as CR9EHIX-9 ( for a 99XX), Dr Egal has posted about using CR9EH-9? and a post by Hobie on cbrxx talks about using IMR9A-9H. I believe there are Iridium and Platinum plugs so am guessing that covers 2 of the part #'s I used CR9EHIX-9 because that was what the PO had given me when I bought the bike and it had in it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TuffguyF4i Posted March 8, 2007 Author Share Posted March 8, 2007 Wow,,i expect 1 reponse at the best! Thanks for the resposes guys..i'll make this happen this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airborneXX Posted March 8, 2007 Share Posted March 8, 2007 Wow,,i expect 1 reponse at the best! Thanks for the resposes guys..i'll make this happen this weekend. Bring everything to Rhodes North on Saturday and we'll do it in the parking lot after a few beers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TuffguyF4i Posted March 9, 2007 Author Share Posted March 9, 2007 Sounds fun, but i think i'll be in DC this weekend. There is a huge drink and drown going on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feelergaugephil Posted March 11, 2007 Share Posted March 11, 2007 1.5hrs and it was done! I removed the tank and airbox and pushed the coils to the side. Thanks for that info on changing them. I haven't ridden it yet because, I have noticed over the few months the clutch fluid really low, so while I was doing the plugs I topped off the fluid. So, I go to start it up and it leans over to the left, I see clutch/brake fluid coming out of the top cover, I tightened it up, and it still leaked, took the top off and cleaned it, cleaned the rubber diaphram and put it back together, STILL LEAKED!!!! An hour of messing with it and still leaking I called my mate at Honda, who pulled it up on the computer, apparently the plastic inside cover is MISSING!!!!!! I guess that's why it was always low so it never leaked!! Ordered from Honda, should be here Tuesday! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TuffguyF4i Posted March 12, 2007 Author Share Posted March 12, 2007 Bought the NGK's at autozone. All 4 cost $29 and change. Going to do the swap tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Ergal Posted March 12, 2007 Share Posted March 12, 2007 1000 km in this weekend, spent between mountain streets (the firsts knee-sliding of 2007, UAU !!... ) on saturday and touristic journey (at about 160 kmph) of 700 km on sunday. No probs; everything's good also with cheap and normal CR9EH9's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVLXX Posted March 13, 2007 Share Posted March 13, 2007 Did mine this past weekend... it was simple and relatively fast. Although I did do one thing different from Warchilds rite-up. I pulled my bike under my garage door opener, removed all the bolts to the tank, Then removed the tank from the front of the frame, set it on it's ass end , lifting the front up, and held it in place with a motorcycle strap from the grarage door hanger to the hole in the front tank support. This gave me full access to the plugs. I think I had everything done in about 15 minutes... OK maybe 20 tops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TuffguyF4i Posted March 13, 2007 Author Share Posted March 13, 2007 Did mine last night. He wasn't kidding, it is tight working in that area. Espically for that #4 plug! I have big hands, so its kind of hard for me to squeeze in there. All said and done, it took me about 2 hrs. I could do it in 30 mins next time. You really don't need to tq those plugs down much. I pretty much tightened them till i felt good resistance and gave up. I didn't want to push it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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