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charging problem


devilisht2003

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my bike isnt charging like it should. i cant run my brights and stay above 12 volts on the passport 8500 meter. rode yesterday and had them on and stop at a buddies house and had to push start. i do have a r1 R/R on my bike i believe.

is it stator, battery or what?

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Just because you have an R1 R/R---don't assume it can't be your problem. I ran one for about a year and then it had a diode go bad---possibly due to loosnes in my connections or pushing a faulty battery or both. Some where around here(forum) a checklist posted---that tells you how to check the whole system---much better than the one in the manual IMHO. I think one of the last tests on the list is the diode check of the R/R. Having had the problem I would check that 1st-----and it's one of the easiest checks.

Also---as you unplug the connections, notice if they are tight-----it will help isolate the problem/cause. Happy trails kel

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Travis:

See if Mike can pack his electrical meter with him when you head down to RedNeXXt. If not, I'll toss mine in.

If necessary, we can swap out your R/R someone else's in Corydon, and we can diagnose it there pretty quick, I would think.

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we tested it when we took the PAIR off and the CCT. the battery seemed to be at 12 just fine but my passport was low and the bike just had a dead battery so something isnt right. i'll get him to bring it and we'll see

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1. Start trouble shooting with a known good battery charge, in a known good battery. After the battery is charged, do a quick load test by turning the ignition switch on (to turn on the headlight), without starting the bike. Leave the switch on for about thirty seconds or so, then turn the switch off, all this time monitoring the battery voltage with a meter. After the switch is turned off the battery voltage should gradually recover to around 12 volts. If the voltage goes low and lingers or never recovers to 12 volts, then you may have a weak or dead cell in the battery, and it should be replaced.

2. Check the stator windings (the three yellow wires connecting to the R/R). Disconnect the connector from the R/R and measure the resistance between each yellow wire to each other. This should be a low but measureable resistance (around 1 ohm or so). A dead short or an open means the stator winding has shorted out or opened up, and the stator must be replaced. Then measure between each yellow wire and ground. Each measurement should be open (that is, an infinitely high resistance). Any resistance measurement or a short means the stator winding has shorted to the case, and the stator must be replaced.

3. From your description my guess is that you have a bad stator.

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Just because you have an R1 R/R---don't assume it can't be your problem. I ran one for about a year and then it had a diode go bad---possibly due to loosnes in my connections or pushing a faulty battery or both. Some where around here(forum) a checklist posted---that tells you how to check the whole system---much better than the one in the manual IMHO. I think one of the last tests on the list is the diode check of the R/R. Having had the problem I would check that 1st-----and it's one of the easiest checks.

Also---as you unplug the connections, notice if they are tight-----it will help isolate the problem/cause. Happy trails kel

FWIW - Here's the link to the diagram:

Electrex Troubleshooting Diagram

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Thanks Mike----for posting the link. That is the one----I've never seen a better one. The diode test of R/R is on page 3---piece of cake to check. Also, connector housing on the r/r is plastic so you do the check of the stator output (page 4) easily through the clip slot on the housing with standard meter probes.

Happy hunting or the electrical gremlins---------kel

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Had the same problem, even though my stator check out ok, according to the Honda shop manual, it was the cause of the trouble....don't forget to order the gasket for the stator cover when you order the stator.......I started with the battery, replaced the r/r and then the stator, that fixed my chargeing problem

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