Rear Shock Settings

[XX]

ok, i need to dial in some preload into my rear shock but:

1) can anybody tell me how to tell if right now it's set at 'zero' preload as it should from the dealer new? it's never been adjusted before, but i don't trust the dealer who put the bike together!

2) if i use a rear swingarm stand AND take a standard car jack (from a honda crv) and place it under the area where the centerstand (i don't have a centerstand) was, right in between the 2 mounting eyelets for the centerstand, and raise it up, will this de-compress the rear spring, maybe allowing for an easier adjustment?

any ideas? :?: :worship:

[ironmike]

.. at "zero" would generally mean the twin lock-rings (which are torqued against each other to lock) are in the uppermost possible position (top of the the shock) thereby having the least possible pre-load on the spring. To add pre-load one must increase tension on the spring by rotating the lock-rings clockwise (travelling down the shock, shortening the spring).

Dealer set-up procedures vary, notwithstanding factory recommendations. Most shock assemblies arrive set to the softer side of mid-range, and few techs bother to change that - although in finer shops, the techs will actually set sag per the new owner's preference (assuming a well informed and intentioned rider).

By all means, lift the rear off the ground... unloading the bike's weight from the rear suspension.

Lack of a proper tool to loosen the torqued lock-rings from one another may have you reaching for that long shaft flat-head screwdriver and a mallet/hammer... OK, it'll work - but be very careful... that's not what we'd refer to as a precision instrument assembly. Don't forget to "lock" the lock-rings (torque against one another) when you've set your pre-load on the spring. :wink:

[Edward]

As far as I know, the shocks are set at the factory.

Do not know of a single dealer that would change

the shock from what the factory has dialed up,

"there could be liability issues" unless you pay of course.

To dial it in for your weight and ridding style,

I would suggest that you get hold of the past couple issues

of MOTORCYCLIST mag, "or check their web site".

They did a few how to articles on suspension set-up.

[XX]

i was also wondering if using the car jack on the centerstand area in combination with the rear swingarm stand would uncompress the shock allowing an easier adjustment.

could somebody do an eyeball measure in inches of how much 'thread' is showing on their 'factory set' rear shock? i don't trust the dealer that set mine up :roll:

thanks all

[CasterTroy]

I'm with you man...I need to know as well since I bought used and don't know what the previous owner had done.

Does honda make the proper pre-load adjustment tool for the bird? Is it any easier to get to than going up from below? I.E. would removing the battery help in coming from above?

[TimXX]

The rear shock preload is really difficult to adjust. The easiest way is to tilt up tthe gas tank [ I used a large reversable clamp to hold it] and then hammer it from the top. It moves so slowly :cry: but at least you get a clear shot at the rings. It is so difficult that I will probably get a rear shock with remote hydraulic preload adjustment- I switch too often from solo to touring with passenger mode. Hyperpro and Ohlins both make these.

When I put on the Hyper pro rear shock spring, I measured the stock spring-it was 221mm [8.7"?] long when off the shock. So- measure the length of the spring on the shock to see how long it is while on the bike with it on the centerstand. The difference is how much it was compressed.

Then measure the sag with you on it and figure out how much you want to compress it more.

[XX]

the CA version also has some black cylinder thing under the tank in the way so you can't get at it from that direction either ;o

what i do, is load up books in my givi trunk like i have a passenger, weights it down perfect ;o)

... just kidding