Cossi Posted February 5, 2006 Share Posted February 5, 2006 I am starting to toy with the idea of redoing my front forks. But I don't really know that much about what I am looking at/for. Spent some time on the RaceTech site, looking around at prices and such. It looks like I could do valves and springs for about $270 in parts. Or just springs for about $125 in parts. But I guess my questions are what really am I to gain from this? I ride a little bit spirited occasionally, but I don't really have any complaintws with the factory suspension. I don't ride near as aggressively as many of you do. So what really am I going to gain? What are the differences. I haven't ever felt the the front end was unstable on me or anything, so.......????? If I personally will not feel a significant difference, why bother? I don't want to dump alot of money into it when I don't NEED to. I can think of lots of other things I would rather do for big bucks. But if I can spend $125 and a couple of hours with a fellow XXer or 2 helping put them in,and have a huge difference, then hell yeah. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted February 5, 2006 Share Posted February 5, 2006 Rick, do the springs and be done with it. While I am sure some valving changes would be necessary for the perfect setup, springs and maybe a change in oil weight are all most guys need (self included). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cossi Posted February 5, 2006 Author Share Posted February 5, 2006 Rick, do the springs and be done with it. While I am sure some valving changes would be necessary for the perfect setup, springs and maybe a change in oil weight are all most guys need (self included). OKay, but I guess one of my bigger questions is, what am I to gain from it? Will I have a better ride? Stiffer ride?How will it change the handling? etc...... I am leaning towards just doing springs and oil, sheerly for the reason of cost, I would like to know what i stand to gain from doing that even. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted February 5, 2006 Share Posted February 5, 2006 OKay, but I guess one of my bigger questions is, what am I to gain from it? Will I have a better ride? Stiffer ride?How will it change the handling? etc...... If the springs are right for your weight, the ride may actually seem a bit softer. I realize this is counter-intuitive, but if you're riding around too low in the suspension range due to soft spring, it can make the ride seem harsher than the spring rate would suggest. Expect to do a bit of chassis ajustment to compensate for the increased height in the front, or it may slow your steering some. Once you change the springs and set your sag front and back, then worry about shimming the back or dropping the front for the desired steering characteristics. Measure everything before you start, including sag, so you have a baseline to work from when you're done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXTi Posted February 5, 2006 Share Posted February 5, 2006 Depending on your weight, the stock springs may be fine for you. Check out the Race-Tech site for a spring rate calculator. I think the stockers are something like 0.89 kg/mm. Check the free lengths when you have your forks apart. There are service limits in the manual. I went with 1.05's for my weight and they REALLY improved my bike's handling and ride. If the springs are right for your weight, the ride may actually seem a bit softer. I realize this is counter-intuitive, but if you're riding around too low in the suspension range due to soft spring, it can make the ride seem harsher than the spring rate would suggest. I noticed that very thing when I changed springs. That was weird. I tried to reply to Tim's post and quote him, but it added the new message to my last one. WTF?? I did it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cossi Posted February 5, 2006 Author Share Posted February 5, 2006 OKay, but I guess one of my bigger questions is, what am I to gain from it? Will I have a better ride? Stiffer ride?How will it change the handling? etc...... If the springs are right for your weight, the ride may actually seem a bit softer. I realize this is counter-intuitive, but if you're riding around too low in the suspension range due to soft spring, it can make the ride seem harsher than the spring rate would suggest. Expect to do a bit of chassis ajustment to compensate for the increased height in the front, or it may slow your steering some. Once you change the springs and set your sag front and back, then worry about shimming the back or dropping the front for the desired steering characteristics. Measure everything before you start, including sag, so you have a baseline to work from when you're done. Thanks Tim, and Jim..... Tim the above is really good information. I find it really interesting.....because um, well .....considering I haven't eve touched the suspension sense I got the bike. So it probably isn't set up worth a shit for me in the first place. The RaceTech site, says for 180lbs, which is pretty close for me I need a .976 and to use the closest thing. So it seams to me I could go with either the 1.0 or .95 and be in good shape either way. IF i decide to do this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted February 5, 2006 Share Posted February 5, 2006 On my way out the door, so quickly- at 180 you may not need springs at all. Check you sag before you spend any money. More later....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cossi Posted February 5, 2006 Author Share Posted February 5, 2006 Okay I just spent the last half hour running searches and reading threads about suspension adjustments etc. And looking for info on how to set sag, what it should be etc....and all I can say, is I didn't relaly find many answers, and MY HEAD IS KILLING ME!!! And I only made it through a few of the pages of hits.............. Anyone have any links that make this a little easier? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXTi Posted February 5, 2006 Share Posted February 5, 2006 You can adjust your sag by changing the length of the spacer in your forks and changing the pre-load on your rear spring. I've read that 30-35mm sag is about right for our bikes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cossi Posted February 5, 2006 Author Share Posted February 5, 2006 You can adjust your sag by changing the length of the spacer in your forks and changing the pre-load on your rear spring. I've read that 30-35mm sag is about right for our bikes. Okay, well, can you ellaborate? How do you measure it, etc, etc, etc. I know NOTHING about suspension. I need to find someone around here that can help me out with it. Do you know anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXTi Posted February 5, 2006 Share Posted February 5, 2006 I'll tell you what I know, but I'm sure there are better sources. 1) put your bike on the center stand. 2) measure the distance from your axles to a stationary point on the bike (fairing point, etc.) 3) get all your riding gear on 4) sit on the bike and take it off the center stand 5) measure the new distances from your axles to the same stationary point as before. That distance is your sag. You can use a tie wrap on a fork tube for the front end, but you really need an assistant for the rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redxxrdr Posted February 5, 2006 Share Posted February 5, 2006 I am planning the same thing and have never been into a set of forks. This link seems to make sense to me. But as I said, this will be my first attempt.SASBK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonW Posted February 5, 2006 Share Posted February 5, 2006 Here's a few articles I keep in my favorites file: http://www.rideredny.com/suspension_set_up_words_by_andy.htm http://www.rideredny.com/suspension_setup_explained.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted February 6, 2006 Share Posted February 6, 2006 Rick, those are both good links. Check your sag and get back here with some numbers and then people can offer more constructive, specific advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted February 7, 2006 Share Posted February 7, 2006 Also for the front forks you can put a zip tie friction tight around one tube so the dust cover pushes on it for easy measurements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprack Posted February 7, 2006 Share Posted February 7, 2006 Sonic Springs $79. And don't forget new fork oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunedain Posted February 7, 2006 Share Posted February 7, 2006 Hey all! (my first post on here) I did the whole show on my 98 xx. Springs, compression and rebound valves. Since I change fork oil every other year the bushings and seals were still in good shape. I'm a fairly agressive rider and a big boy too and went with a 1.00 set of springs. Having been a graduate of Paul Thedes Suspension Seminars I went ahead and used a three stage shim stack on my compression valve. I did this in an effort to gain some low, med, and high speed damping on otherwise unadjustable forks. I used 10 shims in a 5,3,2 stack that worked out perfect for my riding. I use 25mm of sag and put an Ohlins on the rear to balance the system. On some twisties where a couple of my 600cc friends would walk away from me in the real tight stuff I found a lot more feedback and compliance in the suspension and the 600's as new and light as they were did not get away with the wheels sticking to the gound like they did. The suspension of the XX is it's only flaw in my book. I had to make a change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HERBXX Posted February 7, 2006 Share Posted February 7, 2006 Hey all! (my first post on here) I did the whole show on my 98 xx. Springs, compression and rebound valves. Since I change fork oil every other year the bushings and seals were still in good shape. I'm a fairly agressive rider and a big boy too and went with a 1.00 set of springs. Having been a graduate of Paul Thedes Suspension Seminars I went ahead and used a three stage shim stack on my compression valve. I did this in an effort to gain some low, med, and high speed damping on otherwise unadjustable forks. I used 10 shims in a 5,3,2 stack that worked out perfect for my riding. I use 25mm of sag and put an Ohlins on the rear to balance the system. On some twisties where a couple of my 600cc friends would walk away from me in the real tight stuff I found a lot more feedback and compliance in the suspension and the 600's as new and light as they were did not get away with the wheels sticking to the gound like they did. The suspension of the XX is it's only flaw in my book. I had to make a change. Hi, What did you use for the split shims in your stack ? .1 s ? What O.D Thanks Herb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprack Posted February 7, 2006 Share Posted February 7, 2006 Kinda OT, but is there any place that sell adjustable caps or another bike's forks that have an adjustable cap that'd fit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XXTi Posted February 7, 2006 Share Posted February 7, 2006 Jaws sells a replacement fork cap with a pre-load adjuster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted February 8, 2006 Share Posted February 8, 2006 http://www.sasbk.co.za/suspension_setup_guidelines.htm Another good suspension write up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pug Posted February 8, 2006 Share Posted February 8, 2006 Kinda OT, but is there any place that sell adjustable caps or another bike's forks that have an adjustable cap that'd fit? Been there, done that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprack Posted February 8, 2006 Share Posted February 8, 2006 $135 for a adjustable caps? I paid $30 on the SV. Jaws sells a replacement fork cap with a pre-load adjuster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunedain Posted February 11, 2006 Share Posted February 11, 2006 Hi, What did you use for the split shims in your stack ? .1 s ? What O.D Thanks Herb I used a 0.05" thick X 0.512" dia (prolly considered a 0.51 but thats what notes said.) No, thank you for the opportunity to share. -D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HERBXX Posted February 11, 2006 Share Posted February 11, 2006 Hi, What did you use for the split shims in your stack ? .1 s ? What O.D Thanks Herb I used a 0.05" thick X 0.512" dia (prolly considered a 0.51 but thats what notes said.) No, thank you for the opportunity to share. -D Isn't .05 inches equal to over 1mm ? Are you sure that was not .05 mm ? I think 1mm is is huge for a splitter ? I am i missing somethin here ? I was planning on using a .1 mm by 20 mm to create a 2 stage stack in my shock . Thanks herb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.