Need Help Bleeding Brakes- PLEASE

[02Blackbird]

I drained and replaced the clutch and brake fluid in my Blackbird today. The clutch and the front brake bled fine. I have worked all afternoon on the ******* rear brake and I still dont have it bled. There is no brake at all until I pump the rear brake 3-4 times and then there is brake. I have used a MityVac as well as a piece of clear plastic tubing. I dont get any air bubbles at all 3 bleed valves. Is there I trick that I dont know about. I also bled the banjo bolt at the master cylinder and got no air at all. Please help. Thanks!!

[Redbird]

The rear is hydrualically linked to the front, so you have to bleed the line that connects them.

Bleeding the brakes is covered by about six pages in the service manual, but basically what you need to do is bleed between the rear master and the front calipers, center bleed nipple, right one first. Give that a shot :grin: .

[02Blackbird]

Redbird, I have the factory Honda service manual and have followed it step by step and no luck. Thanks

[Redbird]

I dont get any air bubbles at all 3 bleed valves

That confused me a bit, as there's four you'll need to hit when bleeding the back, two on the rear caliper, and one each on the front. Sorry I wasn't more help :sad:

[severdog]

I recently did a lot of work on my brakes (wreck restoration) so I had to replace secondary master cylinder and left front caliper...meaning I put a ton of air in the lines. I had to pump up my rear pedal to get action, same as you.

I did the bleed tonight....the only thing I didn't do in the procedure is bleed them dry first. I found that when doing the rear, the mityvac didn't pull fluid as fast as when doing the front. There is a LOT of fluid in the rear system. I helped out the mityvac by pumping the pedal, and kept the reservoir filled. That moved a lot of the older crap out of there much faster. After you mityvac all FOUR bleed lines for the rear, the manual recommends that you do a last "pump n' crack" on all four. You'll need a helper for doing the left front unless you're a contortionist.

I used my son...."push down on this thing here......"

pedal seems tighter now. I can hear the front center pistons puckering the seals when I hit the pedal now.

Just be patient and you'll get there. Hope this helps.

[xrdracer]

De-link the fucking thing, put on some good s.s lines and new m/c with 5/8" bore, bleed like regular brakes , throw all the linked crap in a box and live happily ever after

[Pete in PA]

You said drained and replaced the fluid. In saying that did you pump till you were empty and getting air in?

Unless you are doing a line, master cyl. or caliper replace, don't allow any air in.

When I change fluid I pump all the fluid out of the resorvoir untill I'm just about to suck air, then hold lever/pedal engaged and fill with fresh fluid.

Use the new fluid to push old out till you have clear/new fluid at other end.

Now to correct your problem since it is too late.

the one rear line runs from the rear pedal to the front calipers and back to the rear caliper. Even without air it takes forever till you get clean fluid at the other end.

I don't even own a Mity-vac. I do it the pump and and hold way.

What I would try is a little reverse bleeding. take rear wheel off so you have caliper in hand. slowly pump pedal and push out pistons a fair ways, but not till they pop out. Then push them all the way back in. do this a few times, This removes air near the rear mas. cyl.

Also are you doing the bleed in order in the manual?

Hope this helps.