blkbrdrydr Posted September 30, 2005 Share Posted September 30, 2005 The solution was almost too dumb to mention but hopefully nobody else will make this mistake. I started to switch the leads between the high and low beams just to see if a ballast or igniter was faulty and while looking at the igniters, I started to wonder about the way that they were mounted. When I mounted the Igniters, I velcro'd them to the back of the instrument panel and the one for the low beam was directly behind the clock and trip odometer. Well.... I removed them from the back of the panel and zip-tied them to the frame below the windscreen and the problem suddenly disappeared. Guess that I should have thought about attaching that much voltage to the back of the instrument panel but I was in a hurry to install the lights since I'd worked late that day. :oops: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickrad Posted September 30, 2005 Share Posted September 30, 2005 How old is your battery? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blkbrdrydr Posted September 30, 2005 Author Share Posted September 30, 2005 How old is your battery? 2 months Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickrad Posted September 30, 2005 Share Posted September 30, 2005 :? all I got I've seen a failing battery do similar things though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted September 30, 2005 Share Posted September 30, 2005 Are you starting it with both beams on? If you did, it could be enough of a drain to lower voltage to the point stuff might reset. Those things pull some serious juice on start up. Just an idea........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kg4fku Posted September 30, 2005 Share Posted September 30, 2005 are your battery terminal tight? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman_40 Posted September 30, 2005 Share Posted September 30, 2005 are your battery terminal tight? And clean. Also check your grounds and power connectors a bad connection can do it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blkbrdrydr Posted October 1, 2005 Author Share Posted October 1, 2005 Starting with only the Low beam on. Battery terminals are both clean and tight. When I installed the lights, I hadn't ridden the bike in a week or so and am wondering if the battery needs to damn near fully charged to handle the voltage draw at startup. On the first night, I turned the lights on several times and only rode the bike several miles (to get in the first 10 minutes on the bulbs) and that would have never fully recharged the battery. I put the Battery Tender on this evening and it took quite a while for the green light to glow. We'll see Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted October 1, 2005 Share Posted October 1, 2005 Check the connections to your dash, as well, if you were playing around back there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beondwacko Posted October 1, 2005 Share Posted October 1, 2005 Are you starting it with both beams on? If you did, it could be enough of a drain to lower voltage to the point stuff might reset. Those things pull some serious juice on start up. I never had that problem before. The only time I have ever had everything reset itself was when the battery was nearly dead and I started it. Starting with both beams on has never been a problem here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2equis Posted October 2, 2005 Share Posted October 2, 2005 Check the connections to your dash, as well, if you were playing around back there. +1 I've had HID in the XX for a few years now - no problems. Check the connectors behind the dash. May have an intermittent connection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted October 2, 2005 Share Posted October 2, 2005 Of course, I just have a carb'd version, but the only thing I've noticed is; when at low rpm, but above idle (1500-2500), it'll sometimes be at 14.6-7 volts, but will then drop back down to 14.3-4 when the rpm gets higher... I assume it's because it's not using as much juice... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2equis Posted October 3, 2005 Share Posted October 3, 2005 Of course, I just have a carb'd version, but the only thing I've noticed is; when at low rpm, but above idle (1500-2500), it'll sometimes be at 14.6-7 volts, but will then drop back down to 14.3-4 when the rpm gets higher... I assume it's because it's not using as much juice... Mike After initial startup an HID bulb will draw 1.6 amps less than a standard 55w halogen bulb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartonmd Posted October 3, 2005 Share Posted October 3, 2005 Of course, I just have a carb'd version, but the only thing I've noticed is; when at low rpm, but above idle (1500-2500), it'll sometimes be at 14.6-7 volts, but will then drop back down to 14.3-4 when the rpm gets higher... I assume it's because it's not using as much juice... Mike After initial startup an HID bulb will draw 1.6 amps less than a standard 55w halogen bulb. yeah, I know... just hadn't expected it to go OVER what it usually is... cruising on the highway, it's usually ~14.3-4 constant... mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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