xfuctx Posted July 24, 2005 Share Posted July 24, 2005 i installed roller bearings today hoever only the top the bottom one is to tight on shaft i tried freezing it but still no good the stock one drops right on aftermarket dosent fit shaft to tight will damage if i try to press it onwhy do they make it so tight? why cant they just shave it like 5 thousanths? Ahh couldn't wait till winter.lol I'm the same way. So, the the race that slides down the stem on top of the seal won't slide down? I remember mine making it 3/4 of the way down by hand, then an easy press/pull with a inverted three jaw. This doesn'y sound so good my friend. :? do i have this right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slyxdevil Posted July 24, 2005 Author Share Posted July 24, 2005 had a buddy help me not as bad as i thought it would be hardest part was fukin with all the brake plumming put forks in had to take back out to reroute the pluming twice but that bottom one dosnt even slide down shaft as shaft is tapered bigger at bottomrace didnt even slide down and bearing seemed like it would never fit i guess u gotta cook it in pan and freeze the race new ones only have one race stock there are 2 races any way top bearing was fuct bottom was ok so regreased bottom and changed top to the roller had it al apart shame it just dont slide in took us about 2.5 hours Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted July 24, 2005 Share Posted July 24, 2005 Bottom bearing needs to be pressed onto the stem. Top one can be worked on with a little bit of patience, and a piece of tubing used as a driver. If you aren't familiar with working on a bike, you shouldn't be screwing around with chassis & brakes, IMO. Replacing the upper bearing only is just a waste of time, and will do almost nothing for your bike. The lower bearing takes all of the load, so will suffer the most wear. Have somebody more mechanically inclined finish the job for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slyxdevil Posted July 24, 2005 Author Share Posted July 24, 2005 NORTHERN MAN IM REAL FAMILIAR WITH WORKING ON BIKES AS I NEED FREINDS HELP TO JACK IT UP WITH OUT FALLING OVER ..THE TOP BEARING WAS TOTALY WASTED EVEN HAD A BALL MISSING AND HAD GRIME IN IT FELT LIKE SAND..SO IT MADE A BIGG DIFF CHANGING IT ALL IM SAYING IS STOCK ONE ON BOTTOM SLIDES RIGHT ON NO PRESS NEEDED WHY IS AFTER MARKET SUCH A PAIN IN ASS ? WELL BELIVE IT OR NOT THE TOP BEARING WAS THE ONE THAT WAS WASTED I GUESS FROM PREV OWNER WASING IT IT WAS RUSTED AND HAD A GRITTY LIKE SAND IN IT BOTOMM WAS FINE ..I CHANGED IT CAUSE I WAS GETTING A CLICKING FROM STEERING HEAD I HAVE NO PROBLEMS WITH DECEL WOBBLE OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT I WILL DO THE BOTTOM OVER WINTER AND FREZZE RACE HEAT BEARING GOOD AND PRESS IT ON ..HAD THE BIKE OUT RODE 67 MILES FEELS GREAT BUT WILL DO BOTTOM OVER WINTER Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rider99XX Posted July 24, 2005 Share Posted July 24, 2005 I just replaced steering head bearings with the All Balls kit. It takes longer to disasemble the front end ( wheel, calipers, forks, horn, breakline clamps etc. etc.) than to replace the bearings. I used a floor jack under the header to support the front and the rear end up on the centerstand. I used a loooonng punch to remove the races. Come in from the bottom for the top race and from the top for the bottom race. Take your time and don't work on just one side of the race, tap a little on one side then do the other side. There are nice wide notches to position the punch in. As for the bottom bearing on the stem, I used a one inch wide chisel and LIGHTLY taped it under the bottom of the bearing. Once it moves once it will come off pretty easy from there. The seal will be toast, but then again you ARE replacing the seals, right? I then used the race from the upper bearing and a 12 inch length of 1.25 inch pipe ( perfect fit to the race ) and tapped the bottom bearing on to the stem. Don't forget to put the seal on first!!!! The top bearing is installed the same way. I slid the stem in from the bottom, supported the stem from the bottom then tapped the top bearing on just like the bottom with the old race and the pipe. When I say "tap" I mean just that. Don't beat the hell out of it. Remember the frame is aluminum and you CAN damage it :shock: Tap a little, LOOK a lot!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slyxdevil Posted July 24, 2005 Author Share Posted July 24, 2005 YEAH I WAS AFFRAID TO TAP THE BOTTOM SEEMED AWFLY TIGHT DIDNT WANNA DAMAGE AS WE PLANED ON GOING FOR A RIDE RIGHT AFTER WE PUT BACK TOGETHER..U SHOULDNT HAVE TO BEAT BEARINGS THEY GAVE ME NEW SEALS IN MY KITT THE BEARINGS ONLY HAVE ONE RACE OLD STOCK ONES HAVE 2 RACES..BEING THAT WE WERE GOING FOR A RIDE I DIDNT WANNA BEAT IT WITH HAMMER AND WOOD I LOOKED AT THE ST1100 INSTALL THAT WAS POSTED IN THIS SECTION AND IT SEEMS LIKE HE HAD TO DO SOME REAL WORK TO GET IT ON I WILL DO BOTTOM ONE AGAIN AT END OF SEASON IT AINT HARD ITS JUST LIKE U SAID BRAKES AND ALL THE PLUMMING LINES ARE THE HARDEST PART WILL FREEZE RACE OVER NIGHT AND PRE HEAT BEARING FILL SHAFT WITH CHRUSHED ICE AND I THINK ILL BE ABLE TO GET IT MY TOP ONE WAS ACTULLY WASTED JUST REGREASED STOCK BOTTOM FOR NOW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rider99XX Posted July 24, 2005 Share Posted July 24, 2005 Well my decell wobble is GONE GONE GONE!!!. That slight buzz through the clip ons is GONE GONE GONE!!! Bike feels new again. The bearing change was well worth the effort!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slyxdevil Posted July 25, 2005 Author Share Posted July 25, 2005 im a heavier rider being 6ft 6 tall and 325lbs i never had a decel wobble only once i gott an excelleration wobble as wheel was barely skipping ground at a little over 120 mph that was scary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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