1badxx Posted December 11, 2004 Share Posted December 11, 2004 while I had my bike for sale I noticed one morning my headlight getting bright and dim. I checked the charging system and at times the volts at the battery was low below 12.6 and then get real high above 17 volts. so I did all the harness checks stator checks and everthing checks good so I need a regulator. I was hesitant to buy a new honda part because of the failure at relatively low miles {16000}. I did not want to buy another one just to have it do it again but I finally talked to a honda tech that knows what he is talking about. he checked it out for me and found that for the 2000 model there is a superseded part # that usualy means something was changed. he recomended not useing the ricks or electrex he said he has seen more problems on other bikes and pwc's from using after market regulators like total melt down of the wireing harness. any way the new part # is 31600-MAT-E01 old is #31600MY7-600 list price 140.00 I got one from them for a whole lot less they asked I not say the price but the dealer is Mid South Motorplex in clarksville tn they were a lot of help I highly recomend them. to bad some texas dealers could not be this helpful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykl Posted December 11, 2004 Share Posted December 11, 2004 Good to know. :cool: So far I've not noticed any issues. I have no idea how common of a problem this is for XX's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TechnoGecko Posted December 12, 2004 Share Posted December 12, 2004 I just replaced my R/R last week at only 18,000 miles too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted December 12, 2004 Share Posted December 12, 2004 That's how mine went bad. I didn't notice it till I was burning out headlight bulbs and the fan fuse. You guys with computers, 17 volts can't be good for them. My R1 reg is till going strong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rockmeupto125 Posted December 12, 2004 Share Posted December 12, 2004 You guys with computers, 17 volts can't be good for them. Â Why do you think my bike is so fast? Overclocking, dude!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clinton Horn Posted December 12, 2004 Share Posted December 12, 2004 I have an older FI Bird (99) and I have read here and other places that the R/R and or stator are subject to failure over time / mileage. Numerous people have installed digital voltmeters to monitor charging out put. My bike has 23,000 miles on it and as such is probably ripe for failure. I found several versions , both LCD and LED that would work well but they are pricey (around $60-75). I hate cutting anything into the bike so I searched e -bay and found several analog gauges. They are almost all 2" diameter. I would have preferred a smaller gage but they would be bike specific and that limits the selection and raises the price. The one I bought is a VDO marine gage. I think I have $23 in total cost. It had a choice of red and green backlighting and is supposed to be waterproof. I went to Home Depot and bought a PVC pipe cap that neatly houses the gage and makes a suitable mount. I drilled two small holes. One in the center for attachment and one at 6 o'clock to exit with the wiring. I looked everywhere on the dash for a good spot. I finally relented and used a yellow metal picture hanger for drywall (Home Depot again) removed the small rubber plug right in the center of the yoke. The drywall mount crushes and expands in the hole and really grabs hold. It makes no damage and if you decide to remove the install later. unscrew the mount and the hanger can be deformed with pliers and removed. Replace the rubber plug and you are back to stock. I wired the gage to the rear tail light. There are probably closer places but the harness is really compact and I wanted a spot to do the least damage. There are many types of wire splicers at Home Depot (of course). I will attempt to post pictures. This won't win any design awards but I cannot ignore the readout. At warm idle with the fan running, voltage drops to 11 with a good gel battery that stays on a tender. At 1500-1800, the stator goes full bore and will maintin 14.5 volts steady on. Guess that is why the heater vest guys crank up the idle speed in winter. Anyway the whole thing is less than $35 and much cheaper than rectifiers, stators, and ECU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redbird Posted December 12, 2004 Share Posted December 12, 2004 One more reason to go with the Passport 8500 when shopping for a radar detector- built in voltmeter, plug and play :cool: Nice economical mod if you're not in the market for a detector, though. I also like the idea of turning the idle up a bit when running extra accessories. Does anyone see a downside to that tactic? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted December 12, 2004 Share Posted December 12, 2004 Just how high do you want the idle? Remember at 2K the fan comes on after 10 seconds, defeating the purpose. I suppose 1.5K would be OK, just watch riding slowly in gear. Bike will want to keep going at a faster speed then you're used to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted December 13, 2004 Share Posted December 13, 2004 Remember at 2K the fan comes on after 10 seconds, defeating the purpose. I suppose 1.5K would be OK, just watch riding slowly in gear. Bike will want to keep going at a faster speed then you're used to. Why would the fan kick in after 10 seconds, especially in cold weather? If this is a default, then another plus. Now you also have warm air blowing towards you as well as more voltage for the vest I don't see any down side to this, but would want to keep the idle below 1500. A few hundred more rpm would definitely help with the voltage under load. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red J Posted December 13, 2004 Share Posted December 13, 2004 Why would the fan kick in after 10 seconds, especially in cold weather? Because the owner's manual says it does. I don't see any down side to this, but would want to keep the idle below 1500. Fan comes on. The electric fan comes on. Fan, powered by an electric motor... :wink: J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted December 13, 2004 Share Posted December 13, 2004 Understandable, that you wouldn't want the fan running constantly, that's why I suggested less than 1500 :wink: Does it only do this in neutral? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red J Posted December 13, 2004 Share Posted December 13, 2004 Dunno. I think it's just above 2k, but I really don't know. I'll look. I think that Pete was wanting to not have the fan on (current draw) but get the voltage higher than it is at idle. Hence, the motor should stay off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bar10dah Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 I will attempt to post pictures. :needpics: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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