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steering head bearing upgrade


G2

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For those who have done the upgrade, where is a good source for the tapered steering head bearings?

Also, since I plan on doing it myself without the special Honda tools, any suggestions on things NOT to try when removing the original races? Do they come out fairly easy with a long drift pin and some finese? Any other problems to think about?

All input is appreciated.

Thanks,

Greg

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I'll "third" CBRBearing. Very informative, happy to help, knowledgeable, great prices too!

I used them when buying tapered bearings for my ST1100, wheel bearings for my ST1100, and lastly for bearings for my tire balancer. Highly recommend them!

Steve

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Thanks guys.

Even when the bike was new I would occassionaly hear a "tink" sound from the front end when putting the bike on it's centerstand. Had it checked out but couldn't replicate the noise. (of course :roll:) Now after 16K miles it does it quite a bit at various times and it drives me nuts. After removing the forks and upper triple, I can reach down and with both hands on either side of the lower triple, pull up on one side and push down on the other and get the "tink". :mad: Sounds like the lower shaft race shifting. Cracked? Anyway...made a tool for the 4 slot nut from a large 3/4" drive socket so I don't have to beat it off with a screwdriver and hammer and torqueing it back on will be easier.

How hard was it to remove that lower race on the triple tree shaft?

Now that everything is removed I can also feel a slight "detent" in the straight forward position. Crotch banging front end drops may have contributed. :oops: Will take it apart & inspect it tonight.

At no time has my front ever felt loose or felt anything other than rock solid. No tank slappers or wobble, even without hands at any speed. Just that damn metallic tink.

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Use a press, Greg

The bottom race is flush against the dust seal which is close to flush against the triple clamp. I have similarly removed bearings off of axles with a press but there just isn't much (if any) room to get something behind that race. :???: There aren't any adapters like that here at work that I know of that taper down that small and that would be strong enough. The service manual suggests a chisel but I was thinking more along the lines of cutting it mostly with a wheel and then the chisel. Am I missing something? Draw me a picture? I humbly ask for enlightenment. :wink:

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I think I cut the bearing cage off, then air chiseled the inner race, IIRC.

I'd have to see it again, but you're along the right lines to cut away some of the race if necessary.

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