Involute Posted May 27, 2004 Share Posted May 27, 2004 OK, I broke down and decided to have the dealer do the R&R on my Steering Head Bearings. As far as I know the ones replaced were the original straight bearings. I had them install tapered. This was all due to the deceleration wobble that reared it's head after installing new tires (AV 45 and 46). I did find out for a fact that my old bearings were notched. Anyway, I picked up the bike today and immediately noticed that the steering felt a lot lighter than it did prior to the visit to the dealer. I also noticed that the wobble was still there. I think they left them too loose. I snugged up the bearings a little and the steering now feels just slightly tighter than it did before the bearings were replaced and the wobble is gone and I obviously don't have notched bearings anymore. My question is this: when you guys snug up your bearings or replace them did you do it to the point where the bars with everything intact (forks, wheel etc) needed just a little force to move from lock to lock? That has normally been my practice when dealing with this but I am now second guessing myself. I can still steer the bike with body english with my hands off the bars and the throttle lock on. I can also grab hold of the steering stem in the center and move it lock to lock without too much effort. Before I tightened them up the bars would fall to the left or right under their own weight while on the centerstand. I feel thats too loose. The way I figure it, if there is even the slightest bit of slop in the bearings it will lead to premature notching due to the lack of rigidity. Granted if they are too tight they get screwed up also. Can you guys let me know what you think? :patriot: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironmike Posted May 27, 2004 Share Posted May 27, 2004 ... is the subjective estimation of whatever "proper torque" (per spec) feels like to the rider. Over time, assuming you've repeatedly set proper torque via the correct tool, you'll develop a sense of the right "feel". Old Biker Trick... Without cables too tight, or anything significantly disturbing the balance of the bars... Bike upright, front end intact, off the ground (the front of the bike should be a few degrees higher than the rear, or have the front axle about 2" higher than the rear axle). This helps the next step. Now, in my experience almost all street bikes, notwithstanding bearing type (ball, roller, timken, etc), can find a "happy spot" when the neck is just snug enough so that the trees, if tipped by about a third to the left or right would gently and smoothly (at a steady rate) fall the rest of the way to the stop - test each side. If it's too fast, snug the neck/stem more... if it won't budge, loosen just a hair at a time. There should be no slop. Test ride. Fine tune to your personal taste... then measure the torque with an accurate t-wrench and record your results. Compare to factory recommendations, and keep good notes. You'll be fitting the bike to your preferred settings - just stay within reasonable parameters of the recommended specifications. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey Posted May 27, 2004 Share Posted May 27, 2004 Get a fish scale that measures > 5lbs. put your bike on the centre stand, and put weight on the rear end so the front end is elevated. Use rope or wire to wrap around the forks just under your headlight. Pull as though you want to cause the steering to turn using your scale. Should only take I think 2.2 lbs (or somewhere in that area). Any tighter your going to wobble and hurt your handling, any looser and your going to wobble and be unpredictable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Involute Posted May 27, 2004 Author Share Posted May 27, 2004 Thanks for the reply's. I think I'll do some more playing with it as I might be 1 RCH too tight. It's supposed to rain most of the weekend so I might as well take the bars and top clamp off a few dozen times. I'll measure the force just for the hell of it and see what I come up with in comparison to Honda's recommendation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rider99XX Posted May 27, 2004 Share Posted May 27, 2004 Will the Honda service dept. install tapered bearings if asked to do so or do I need to buy the bearings myself and have them install them? If I need to buy the bearings myself, where can I get them and are they a lot more expensive than stock bearings? I have the same wobble as stated above even after the new tires went on. I did do a wheel alingment and it did help, but only marginally :???: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Involute Posted May 27, 2004 Author Share Posted May 27, 2004 I got the tapered set from Dennis Kirk for $35 shipped. The local dealer installed them for $107. They tell me they do it all the time on Goldwings. I image the dealer can supply the bearings but I'd bet they are more $$. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in PA Posted May 28, 2004 Share Posted May 28, 2004 Keep in mind that when you tighten the stem nut it will increase preload on the bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Involute Posted May 28, 2004 Author Share Posted May 28, 2004 Keep in mind that when you tighten the stem nut it will increase preload on the bearings. Damn, I'm glad you posted that. I need to take 12MM Allen Socket home to torque that bastard to the right setting. I forgot about it until then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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