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Red J

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Posts posted by Red J

    Powerlet.

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Personally I'd put it on the right....

    I've got my controls for my heated grips on the left, and going to put the remote volume control for my amp on the left too so it's easier to adjust on the fly...

    Such is the reason I want it on the left. If I have to fiddle with anything, I'd rather it be on the left. My harness plugs into the vest on the left as well, I'm not sure how I'd like it crossing over in my lap, I ride fairly close to the tank, esp. in winter. Plus, I've already punched a hole in the left side for the grip heat-troller, so I'm inclined to just put another hole in that one.

    Well I cringed thinking of drilling into the plastic. So I looked a Service Honda to find the cheapest to replace panel. I picked the left side panel next to the gas tank. I find I can reach down and connect the powerlet without looking at it. I did get a right angle connector for the wire coming out of my Gerbings. That way the cable routes closer to the tank. My heat-troller knob is farther fwd on the same panel.

    [snip]

    I saw your post in that earlier thread, and wanted to expand on it. Thanks for your post and photo here.

    This location may work for me, but my other bike I had figured on using a straight cable, I may need to look at it and see if I can go with a right-angle connector there. If I can, this may work well for me. I also plan on wiring a master switch for this circuit eventually, doing away with the switch in the wire.

    First off, the outlet you selected looks top notch in terms of quality. Good choice in selection.

    What is the amperage rating of this peice? Instead of swiss cheesing your bike with multiple holes for outlets, why not make a short H/D harness that will plug into the single outlet and split out with multiple female outlets? You could tuck them away into your tank bag, and even possibly mount one of the female recepticles onto the bag itself to plug in any heated appareal(sp?) or other accesories. I would think that by going this route, it wouldn't impeede your ability to reach anything and it would be convient to getting on and off the bike. What do you think of this?

    They do look very robust, I'm pleased with them just sitting in my hand.

    The amperage rating is 16A @ 12VDC.

    My Widder setup is 55w (35 vest + 20 gloves) (so, 5A)

    My tankbag is going to have cellphone charger, iPod power (probably 2.5A fused circuit)

    Not sure what else, but this would leave me with surplus power.

    I had not thought of this, but it certainly has merit, thanks for the idea. The main issue is that I don't run just one tankbag, but for powered application, I suppose I could do that.

    ---

    Thanks guys, some good ideas here.

    Powerlet.

    in The Garage

    Posted

    I ordered a few female receptacles for the blackbird, and am now deciding where to install.

    Powerlet:

    IMG_3135.jpg

    Powerlet with male plug:

    IMG_3136.jpg

    I'm wanting to use one for powering my tankbag or for general use while moving, which I've all but decided to put in the left panel flanking the tank.

    IMG_1361.jpg

    The other one, which would be for heated gear, is more troubling. I've got a chain oiler control which is in the left side kick panel. I had thought of putting the powerlet there and moving the flow adjuster up a bit, but with the hinged door of the powerlet, single handed operation may not be too easy.

    IMG_3131.jpg

    The other option is to place it near the pillion's left foot peg, but I'm not hot on the idea of having to reach back there to fiddle with it. Being a powerlet, it's pretty secure, but there's always the chance that you'll have to replug it while moving and it may not be easy to stop to fiddle with it.

    A third option is to put it by the other one, on the left panel adjacent the tank. Easy to see, easy to access, but it's further forward than ideal for heated gear. I could just install one for now and try it with heat (my tankbag isn't wired as of yet) and see how it works.

    Thoughts? Maybe I'm overthinking this. I just don't wanna drill holes everywhere, and I'd like to get it right the first time.

    Delink Brackets

    in The Garage

    Posted

    So all the delink brackets are discontinued?

    TSR sold some, discontinued.

    321ignition.co.uk sold one, not sure if you can get, but you may be able to.

    There are alternate methods of locking the front fork master, using the front fork master and some hardware.

    VRF Bars on eBay?

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Doesn't the auction say they do not fit his '97 bird? Then they wouldn't fit ANY bird, correct? Or am I not reading right...

    -UJ

    I read that, too. They're not the same as XX bars, and I don't know if that's what's throwing him off. Maybe he never put them on. Or they could be 98-01 VFR bars (look similar) which don't fit (second hand info).

    Taking a chance for sure.

    Valvetrain chubby!

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Nice photo! At first glance I thought dang this guy is thorough. Thought you pulled the motor to check the valves.. :)

    You don't?

    blackbird_engine.jpg

    Really easy to do the valve adjustment with the frame out of the way. Some guys pull the forks to change their oil, some guys remove the engine to adjust the valves. ;)

    rear shock

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Man now I'm paranoid I have a Wilbers setup with the preload and low speed adjustment in the Garage haven't had a chance to put it on yet. Should I sell it or take my chances? I've read 3 posts now in here about Wilbers problems. Where were these posts a month ago when I was trying to decide DOOH. Doesn't Klaus locktight or thread tape the fittings? Guess I'll have to take my chances and X my fingers :blink:

    Definitely sell that POS. In the interest of safety I would be willing to take it off your hands for say $100.

    Whatever, man. Opportunist! I can't believe that someone on this forum would actually stoop to this level.

    I'll go 150

    PAIR system blockoff kit.

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Update:

    I have ordered them from the fabricator. He gave me a two week delivery (he's busy).

    I will need another two weeks on that, to get pockets drilled and anodizing. It may happen sooner, but I'd rather estimate long and beat it, than estimate short and have people bitching.

    So, will be around a month before I am ready to ship. Will post a For Sale thread about three weeks from now, and begin accepting money.

    Cheers,

    J.

    99 engine caboom (update)

    in The Garage

    Posted

    IMO, buying a new pump is indeed insurance, but if there was no oil to pull, a new pump won't matter. I don't recall if the XX manual has a pump inspection section, but if it does, and it checks out okay, I'd not worry about that.

    Inspection and cleaning of the pickup system in general should be done. Inspection and cleaning of the supply path should also be done, but this should all be done on any teardown, IMO.

    PR dude:

    Take pictures of the crank and call/e-mail Falicon to see what it would cost to repair. This will surely be cheaper than a new crankshaft from Honda. If you want, I have a crank with one rod journal damaged only, which would probably be cheaper to fix than yours.

    Is your rod indeed fucked, or is it just the bearings/crank? Download the manual on this site, and start checking out the inspections. IMO, you should run thru the entire motor section for teardown and rebuild. Have you done rebuilds like this before? That entire motor will need to be disassembled and cleaned...

    99 engine caboom (update)

    in The Garage

    Posted

    I would buy bearings new. They're expensive, but I'd buy them new.

    I have a set of connecting rods, I would sell one or all.

    I also have a crankshaft, but one rod journal needs to be repaired. Falicon can do it, but it costs. If someone has a good crank, or a good motor, that would be cheaper.

    J.

    Inverted front end on an XX

    in The Garage

    Posted

    There is a kit to put RC51 forks on the 'bird, made by... TSR is it? but it's pretty pricey!

    Not available any longer, not new, anyway.

    Consisted of new triples. Delinking is required, as you'll use RC front calipers (though delinking the rear is cake).

    xrdracer has it on his red bird.

    PAIR system blockoff kit.

    in The Garage

    Posted

    You can't remove the valve cover with the stock pair valves in place because they're too tall and hit the frame crossover brace.

    I'm still in. ;)

    Might have to PM me, I don't look at the FS section often enough.

    I will post a new thread, reply with the link here, and PM people.

    If you've posted in this thread or PM'd me requesting to be on the list, I will contact you.

    Thanks!

    J.

    PAIR system blockoff kit.

    in The Garage

    Posted

    I bought the blockoff plates on my 02 and other than looking nice they were preatty much (IMO) a waste of $24, once I found out about filling the cap, which I did on my 03 RC. No one other than myself, will ever see the top of the heads anyway.

    The JB only insures nothing can enter or exit the pair cap. I'd be afraid a rubber cap would eventually deteriorate or disintegrate over time.

    True, a handful of ways to accomplish the same thing (hell, you could use corks) but IMO, the plates are the cleanest way to declutter the area and rid yourself of the pair system. Most expensive, true.

    If anyone would rather do the Rogue method instead of buying the plates and decline the opportunity to buy the parts, I understand.

    If anyone wants to try the triple cap method, PM me and I'll send you the caps to try out. I'll even send spares, so that you can replace them when they dry rot.

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