Red J

Leave 'em on.

No shit, I was thinking that just the other day. Hopefully, my problems are behind me with the newest XX regulator. Although not 700w, it's enough if I can get the full wattage the stator can deliver. I'm tired of being extremely wary of what I plug in, not knowing if the bike will start at the next stop. J.

Not unanimous, but a majority.

Obby, I was seeing a steady spec voltage with a meter/highbeams/5500 RPM. Multiple testing, same results. I was losing battery charge in as little as a day with heated gloves. Without, it would last a week or two, less if I took short trips. New stator. New battery. My plug to the RR was fried. HTH. J.

When you get home, pull the tailsection off and see if your RR unplugs easily. Mine was draining the battery on electric gloves, no matter what the RPM I ran it at.

If you want to check the reeds, just remove the tank, pull the airbox, and remove the pair reed covers, and then you can just remove the reeds. Mind the gasket around each reed (4 of them), don't tear it.

Pair system?

Sure thing, Kel. Got it, you're on the list here: http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=31041

I don't have any in stock right now, but will by this weekend.

The boss is dropping them by the metal treatment place today for anodizing. I've been given a delivery date of Friday. Paid orders will ship Saturday. J.

The black wire should be run to +12VDC switched. Mine works. Without the wire run, it does climb to excessive voltage. With the wire connected to +12VDC, it supplies voltage consistent with the FSM spec. The wire needs to be switched (as it is on the 99- bikes) so that it will not drain the battery. I realize you're onto the R1 regulator now, but in case someone else looks for this info, there you are.

I should fucking sell it.

I have an XX regulator, not an R1 regulator. Someone tried this already?

I'm interested to hear about this, if you find the original info. I was planning to peruse the FSM and ground the wire if it's originally to ground in normal operation.

It's been some time since I've consulted the wiring diagram for the later bikes, but as exskibum quoted, I recall it being tied to the starting circuit as a ground. What purpose that serves, other than to negate the charging circuit, I have no idea. --- Regarding the spade connectors: Loose spade connectors have a dimple on the female end, and a corresponding hole in the male end, to lock the connector together. This is their primary mechanical lock. Spade connectors in a terminal block lack this locking function, because with multiple spades you're going to play hell getting them all apart at once. The connector provides the lock. Using these kinds of terminal spades independent of a terminal block (with it's inherent locking function) leaves only one securing method, the clamp force on the connectors, which isn't what they're designed to do. The clamping is to ensure electrical connection, not to ensure that the connector doesn't become disconnected.

I'm sure someone will take you up on the offer, but I'm wiring in the late XX regulator that I already have here. I'm not hot on the idea of the R1 regulator, just because I don't have faith in the wire connection. The lack of positive retention would make me nervous enough to just fork over the money for the repair harness and the replacement XX regulator (redesigned, by the way). Having secure wiring on the bike, esp. where dealing with unfused connections, is pretty important in my book. But to each his own.

Seriously thinking about going this route: http://members.cox.net/wdgah/vfr_connector_repair.htm And getting the new RR from Honda with the fins.

I forgot why I posted this in the first place: Be careful, when you disassemble. If the plug does not wish to come out, you may consider leaving it until you have a solution in hand. Mine is not willing to go back together. Bike is dead in the water with this broken. So be advised.

Subject: 97 XX, 42K miles. So, I've been having intermittent charging problems... Can't see it too well, but the base of the terminals in the regulator are crispy, too. Just where you'd expect them to be. Wonderful. I have an 01- regulator, I guess I'll get to wiring that in and see how she works.

No. Now drink your beer.

Thanks, Joe. Tommy's part goes out tomorrow.

http://www.reddout.com/CBR/tiforce.avi

Right now I'm running a line from the audio output jack from my V1 to the auxilliary input on the Chatterbox. It works ok, but I am thinking about either a screamer or one of those red LEDs that goes in your helmet. Trying to lessen the wires running everywhere when I am touring, though it isn't too bad. I have the HARD system, and I think it works pretty good. I'd had problems with intermittent non-operation, but it turns out the batteries were shot, haven't run it much since, but seems to be solid. I have a used starcom to try out, thinking of multiplexing all audio plus cellular into that, and running Etymotics. I like your power setup, I've ordered a tankbag with a provision for wiring, although it's not a bulkhead fitting like yours. I may snag something like that for the KTM.

I will try it his way, and I'll tell ya why: Because it don't cost nothin', and I can change it later if'n I want to. I'll eventually disassemble and hardwire cigar lighter sockets in the tankbag for cellphone and iPod and whatever else. I really don't have much power requirements on the road, heat being the big one, and that's the one that's been failing and pissing me off. I'll probably cut up one of my surplus Widder sockets and affix that to the bag in the fashion that wacko suggests. If it don't work, I'm not out anything but my time. If the reliability sucks, I'll change it. The main thing I can't do now, is plug the vest back in with the pigtail flapping in the wind and the other pigtail (bike) hard to get at. Moving the bike pigtail to the tankbag will resolve that, I think. I'll post pics. J.