Red J

Nothing on the bottle saying so. Is this a prominent label? -J.

What about Mobil 1 0w40? Comments?

I would replace it. IMO, it's not worth taking the chance. What chain was included? - J.

Photo of the Canyon Dancer bar harness I've used them a couple of times, and it seemed to work well for me. But the grips did move, and I've not yet inspected the switches for damage. Thanks for the tip, guys. J.

www.acronymfinder.com - J.

I'ma dissect your post here. The internals will stay in, but just the crankshaft and pistons/rods. The transmission will get pulled, it's too close. The welder dude says that he can keep the heat fenced in, and we'll just have to see if the tranny will spin when it's reinstalled. He has some foil cloth, that we'll wrap the rest of the motor in, and bind the stuff to the case around the exposed rotating assembly, to keep stuff out. At least that's the plan. Dunno if I read this right, but the case structure is fully intact. The broken area didn't penetrate the case wall. It's well away from that. We'll have to clean that part of the case, no doubt. Before and after. Let me know if I'm not understanding you... If I can keep my rotating assembly inside my repaired case, and feel good about the repair and the cleanlinless, then I'll do it. Of course, if something doesn't go right, I'll get another case. Thanks for the comments, let me know about that second one. I don't think I'm missing anything, but that's why I've posted here... J.

I believe it to be the masterlink, as the remaining chain looks all staked the same. I just lost two outer plates, and their pins. I rang the previous owner, and he claims that he thought it was a rivet type masterlink. I don't know him personally, so I can't vouch for his memory. J.

Update, for those who care. Money is tight, so I'm really looking hard into the repair. Wichita is home to much aircraft fabrication and welding, and airplanes are built of aluminum. Talked with a guy today who thinks it a non-issue, that it will be simple to repair. I am going to give him my broken sprocket cover and see what he can do with it. This will still require the engine to be pulled, but maybe I can get away without tearing the case down. - J.

Ohlins sells them. So does Race Tech. - J.

Was it hard to set the link spacing? I am trying to decide between the MP tool and the DID tool. Specs on the DID tool make me want it worse, but I cannot find a dealer who knows what it is/how to order. http://www.didchain.com/install.html Although I can't believe that it's much better than the MP tool with the four stake anvil. - J.

All of the hole bosses are present. I did survey the area, the street was busy, and I didn't see anything. Some cage probably made off with my case fragments. One major issue with my bosses is that some of them are not only cracked off the block, but along the axis of the threads. Broke two ways. Not sure how they'll hold a thread again. I think that I am going to stud/loctite these locations if it goes back together. Thanks for the help, guys. - J.

Thank you for the offer, Joe has a case set as well, and I have been considering the overbore anyway. Not sure that I really need more power, but if it's going to be a while before I'm back in action again, I may treat myself. Not sure yet, but I will keep it under consideration. Got your PM. J.

I should have mentioned that I don't have all of the pieces, and that the case would need some additional parts to be complete. Photos, detailed at bottom. Thanks for the comments, poida. I have a friend who works in the aircraft industry, welding aluminum. Will get the cover over to him and see what he thinks. - J.

Kinda what I thought, and very convincing argument for replacement. In the end, it's more of a guarantee than welding the case. Thanks much, guys. I was hoping it was gonna be cheap and difficult. Now it's expensive and difficult. :roll: :grin: - J.

Not yet, but I'm waiting on a order of parts for my 4Runner and some for my Landcruiser, and they haven't shown either. Maybe the UPS and mailman both forgot where I live... I'll let you know when I get it. Thanks again, tho! J.

LOL. Both would have to be replaced anyway, broken bosses on the top and bottom. I'm with you on the overbore, my wife isn't as easily convinced that it's worth her money*... J. * It's all her money.

After chainwhipping my case into pieces, I am exploring avenues for getting back on two wheels. One of these options is getting the case welded back together. Anyone know a pro? Another option is modding the case and a Coerce-style sprocket cover, instead of repair. Much thanks in advance. Cheers, - J.

Email them. They have been very helpful to me today, with gaskets and such. They should be able to get you the correct part. Some things are superceding parts, some are year-dependent. Ask, and ye shall be enlightened. J.

Appreciate the info on the chain. DTMA has it for 103. Are they all missing masterlinks? I broke the seal on their box, and it wasn't present. No matter, the Suzuki dealer wanted retail. I knew that DTMA had it for a lot less, and I didn't really think it was that necessary. I did buy a 50VM masterlink, in the hopes that I could repair it that nite. Looks like the case is pretty damaged. I believe that it may take some fabrication, in addition to welding, to get this done. This has me wondering if I should consider parting the bike out. www.reddout.com/CBR/index.htm J.

Thank you for the offer, I know I will need the sprocket cover, and maybe the clutch slave pieces as well. Will PM you when I get it torn down. As far as the debate for masterlinks, I plan on going with the rivet type, and buying the tool for it (Motion Pro? Need tips here...). I am not really interested in buying a 110 link endless chain and removing my swingarm... Much thanks guys. I truly hope that case isn't FUBAR. I wasn't going to fiddle with it today, but I think that I won't quit thinking about it until I see more. J.

While I agree with you, the Honda dealer in Kansas City (where I broke down) was trying to sell me a 50VM for the bike, is what he claims was listed in the parts book. The other dealer (also Honda) tried the same thing. The Suzuki dealer, which was closer, had a 530ZVM 110L in stock, but was missing the master link. If the previous owner was not as critical of what parts went on his motorcycle, I can imagine that whatever Honda wanted to sell him is what went on. Yes, that is what I meant to type. I plan on going with the better chain, no doubt about it. - J.

I was religious about doing the lubing every 500, and cleaned it every 1k. But that was for the last 2k, I don't know how it was taken care of before I got it. The rest of the bike looks very nice, so perhaps it was well lubed before, too. I never noticed the master link while lubing, perhaps it was riveted on. I never went looking for the link, though. Yeah, part of the reason for this post was to maybe drive home the idea that the chain caused me some issues, and that you other guys may well benefit from my mistakes... I do consider myself fortunate to not have laid it down, crashed, etc. J.

Again, thanks for all of the replies. Wichita has a ton of aircraft fabricators (Learjet, Beechcraft, Boeing and Cessna all in town), and I know someone who is really good with TIG and gas, on aluminum. I will send a little prayer to the Honda gods tonight. Hopefully, I have all of the pieces to put this mother back together. The masterlink is MIA. I assume it was clip type, but I can't verify that for sure. J.

Thanks for the replies. I rented a U-Haul and took it home, about 200 miles from where it broke down. I replaced the CCT a few weeks back, and I kinda noticed the chain making noise after the engine was quieter. According to the maintenance log, it was on there for 12k, but only two of those thousands were mine. In retrospect, the chain was throwing me plenty of warnings, I was just not listening. Well, it has my attention now. I will be much more wary (weary? LOL...) of chain health. BTW, it was a DID 50VM. I would have, and will replace it with a 530DVM. Will get into it next weekend, and see how bad it really is. It is obvious that the crankcase has some damage, but it appears limited to the sprocket cover/clutch mount attachment bosses. It's also pissing coolant on the ground. Will post photos as well, I'm spent right now. J.

I lost my master link today, on deceleration. Packed the chain into the front sprocket, cracking to bits the sprocket cover and some parts of the crankcase (where the cover bolts up...) The clutch is frozen up, such that you can't kick it out of gear. The lever feels like a rock. Will post photos of the carnage in a few days. Adding insult to injury, I am away from home, and had to get it towed today at the cost of 110 bucks. I can not find the page where the front sprocket cover is shown, in the parts catalog. I am hoping that the cover bolts on to another part, and not the crankcase directly. I have the sinking suspicion that I am fucked, and shopping for a replacement engine. J.