XX RATED

It could just be that loose nut behind the starter button, there's alot of that going around. And I should know - every XX headlight is wired backwards - except mine! :wink:

10) - The small can fits on most storage shelves. 9) - If you plan on storing your bike for 10 years, the chain won't rust. 8) - Can be used to replace PAM if your not a finiky eater. 7) - Is better than S100 - with WD-40 the spots come off. 6) - Makes using your center stand easier. 5) - Used as a seat cleaner - makes your bike feel "faster". 4) - Makes that silly break in period for brake pads a waste of time. 3) - Doubles as a motor oil on short trips. 2) - Can be used by other color birds as a polish to keep up with the BLACK ones. 1) - Great for starting shit on the forum! :wink: I'm sorry - it's been a long time, and someone had to do it!

In my never ending attempt to help out my friends; anyone have this sort of delema should call me right away! I will RIDE my bird to your girlfriends house, and while I'm fucking her - you can go out riding! Both bikes get ridden - the girl gets ridden......... There - everyone is satisfied................ :wink:

There are two plugs for each side. One for the running light and one for the signal. Possibly the running light plugs are disconnected.

Well most thing have been covered, usally a gradual loss of power is in either the air or fuel systems. Consider this - most local auto stores sell a litmus type stick which can be used to tell if there is water in your fuel. Is it possible that the station you have been buying your fuel is having a water contamination problem? Water can gradually build up inside a fuel filter, to a point where the engine won't run. Prior to this point the engine can gradually loose power. Can't hurt - possibly you have some water on the bottom of your fuel tank and you don't even know it.

The spring is avail. form Circut One Suspensions in Calf. contact them at: http://www.circuit1.com/circuitone_contactus.html

Chucked the stockers - made new ones:

If you are looking to order parts from the UK - then John (owner) of JAWS motorcycle parts is the way to go. John is very friendly, stays on top of your order - will keep you advised of the status and is a forum member as well. Contact: e-mail: Straightfour@aol.com web site: www.jaws-motorcycles.co.uk

I agree that David is a very nice guy, and easy to work with - but I must add one thing. In previous dealings with him, it is quite hard to get answers on backordered items - it appears he puts the items on stock orders, and they come over approx. once a week - if the item is not shipped, he just waites untill it shows up. I waited approx. a month after the scheduled delivery date for a windscreen I had ordered and I just couldn't get David to get me a straight answer on when / if it would arrive. Finally I cancelled my order - went to John at JAWS, and I had the windscreen custom made, shipped & delivered with in two weeks. In no way do I mean to bash David - just want to let thoes who are ordering bits from the UK to know there is another source, and John is a bit more customer orientated and will keep you advised of the status of your order.

Holy Headlights - Batman! You guys tellin' me I've been Back asswards all this time? Joe - I apologize for being sacastic - you know how I am. Matey - I change my answer to: D) Hookers! Damn - I even looked in the service manual, no mention of which is which. My headlight has benn reversed form day one, when I got it. Never thought anything about it. Well I will say this - I have adjusted the headlight to what I believe is optimum light casting for the way the bike sits; I have the bottom light as the low beam & in the top I have installed a 100w bulb. I tell you the thing works great - I'm kinda wondering if I should change it back......... :?:

Joe - don't tell me you got your plugs mixed up ???

NO - Low beam on bottom - High beam on top! If your light pattern is a bit high - it may need to be adjusted with the knobs on the back of the light housing.

With 11,000 mile on your chain & spkts. I would guess the chain has streatched a bit by now - so if you were to do nothine else except change the frt. spkt. to 1 tooth lower, you will most likely have to adjust your rear axle all the way to the rear to take up the chain slack. This will limit the amount of adjustment you have for the future, will increase your wheelbase (which will effect handling), ect. I would suggest changing all three items at the same time, to avoid having to do the job again when you reach the limit of your chain adjustment. Please note: If you are going to drop one tooth up front, and not change the rear (say by going up one in the rear) then when you order your chain, make sure you get the proper lenght chain! You may want to drop a link or two to make up for the smaller sprocket.

Sorry I couldn't get to you sooner! Glad it worked out for you. To anyone else that reads this - if you have the oportunity to have the tank off - I suggest sealing the airbox as to not allow any air to leave the box via the junction between the ducts and the box. The more air that is forced into the engine the better! Black silicone works well............. Good Luck!

I would think the easiest way to track where the bike came from, would be to ask your dealer's service amnager to contact Honda's warranty dept. with the bike's serial number and ask if any info. is on file. At the very least - Honda should be able to identify the dealer that sold the bike when new. :!:

Sometimes when Birds are flying they pee! Possibly your bird was in the rear of the flock........... :wink:

Most likely the problem you are having is one (or both) of the ram air ducts which go from the front of the nose to the air box. Reach under the frt. fairing (under the headlight) and grab the black plastic tube that is located on the right & left sides of the headlight, inside the fairing. If you have any play - slip a piece of foam between the duct & the fairing; this should keep the duct from rattling untill you get a chance to take the tank off and seal the airbox - duct connection area. I used silicone, you can to - or just wrap some duct tape around the junction to keep the duct from moving. (This also helps to seal the airbox an keep as much air as possible to be forced through the filter - helps the engine breeth). Hope this helps........Good Luck!

I agree with Vern do what makes you feel most comfortable - ask the dealer if they have any service records on the bike you bought. Ask if the valves were done at 16K and ask to see the service record if possible. If it was done, then I wouldn't worry too much - if it wasn't - then I would get it done now to cover the 16K & 32K services.

Hey Carlos - that would be about right; I asked the guys @ Orient Express and to their best estimate, the ram being pressurized [as in high speed riding] could/should produce approx. 5-8 H/P. So if you were running a stock Bird - with the air box pressurized that should bring it up to somewhere around 147-148 H/P. Then again - in theory - I'm running 153-155 when I womp on it....... :wink:

Dyna makes ignitions for most type bikes, especially Kaws. I believe they make complete set-ups with coils and all - simular to Accell, Mallory, ect. The choice of the ignition & a MUZZY exhaust tellsme the former owner may have been a former Kaw guy, rether than a Honda guy. Some guys will enhance the ignition [including the coils] when istalling turbos. to eliminate the spark snuffing that can occur when running high boost. Since a coil problem is almost unheard of on the Bird - the prior owner was experimenting with something. Suggest you take a look at the coils and see if they have been replaced also. If you need more info. on the unit you have - get the serial number off the unit and go to: http://www.dynaonline.com/english/ Hope this helps - Good luck!

Ya - What Dave said! OR - You could call a plumber................. :wink:

Just a suggestion - As with most electronic equip. - it is ment to be kept as cool as possible. That being said, I would not stack the ECU & PC on top of each other. If you notice, Honda has put rear ducts (which are functional) in the tail section, I can only guess that the functionality is to make sure the ECU stays cool as possible; though I don't know if it runs warm or not - I never put my hand on it during / after a ride. The easiest place to locate the PC is where the tool pouch was, I just put the tool pouch off to the left - and cut a notch in the plastic the allow for the serial port to protrude from the side. The rubber straps work fine to hold everything in place.

Don't worry - if the new mid pipes don't have a stop for the center stand; you can purchase a 1/4" thick x 1" wide pc. of steel from Home Depot and weld it on the center stand (across the "y" part) and spray paint black and you will have your stop. The whole procedure should take an hour. The welded strip will rest against the lower dogbone link, will not effect riding/suspension. Possibly you could drill a hole in the center, and place a rubber bumper (found in any hardware store) on it to cushion the plate when comming off the center stand. Good Luck!

Actuallywe couldn't use the fans to pump air into the ram air intake ducts like I wanted to; we needed them to keep the carbon fiber cans from melting! I am quite sure the bike makes more H/P as the air is forced into the airbox. I was very pleased with the results. :wink:

Well the Bike is back from the shop - 148 H/P & 87.1 lbs. of torque! 132 mph in forth gear - keep in mind I changed both of my sprockets. I should have asked for a top speed run & damn - I forgot! Guess I'll get a top speed run at the local dealer on dyno day - I'll advise then; but 132 in 4th ain't bad concidering I'm running 16/46 gearing. This is an increase of 5.2 H/P & 4 lbs. of torque over the XX with the PC-II loaded with the base map. The average base map supplied with the PC-II is said to you 1-2 H/P over stock, and these numbers are on top of that. I was/am very pleased with the way the bike runs after the tuning. I thought it ran great before - but now, DAMN! :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: