cbrxxquad

With 2 1/2" off your pan and extra oil in her, you're not worried about your rotating assembly (rods and crank) coming too close to the oil in the reduced sump are you? That might cause some damage at high RPM not to mention reduced power due to the drag of the parts in the oil. Can't be good on it unless you've done something else to your sump in the pan to add space for the extra oil. It's amazing how much room there is below the crank for oil when it spreads out. Only goes up 1/4 inch per qt on the dip stick. The EFR pan that Kent Stotz sudgested is only .5 inch thick and mine is 1,5 inch deep. Elton told me to run four qts in his and I added another for the extra depth of mine after I hurt the first engine . I also run a Cannon accusump for another qt. It still is below the rotating assembly by more than three inches. Elton told me it reduces the volume in the crankcase windage. Not sure I agree on that but it also wets the clutch and the gears more lubricating them better. I know I don't have the clutch grab like others. I also added a baffel inbetween the case and pan to prevent slosh away from the pickup when i stop and turn. That stoped the bearing damage. This thing really makes some g's in the turns but take off and stoping is where it got hurt. Seen the oil pressure go to 0 when I stopped before the baffeling. I bet I could but 2 more and still not churn the oil into foam.

it does not come out of mine with 6 qts and 2.5 inches off the pan. aint got no stinkin kick stand just training wheels

the fuel injected bikes are set rich from the factory according to powercomander people. especially in the mid range,,,,4,000 rpm think that is a flat spot reason. are you running in that rpm for a while and stoping? turn off and smell exhaust for gas buildup in pipes

dont think so,,,oil should be lower

ok i give up proud army wifes husband???? best guess can i get a ip address check

I have always looked at any project that probably needed some profesonal to do as a great excuse to learn, to buy more tools, build a shop, buy a trailer,or anything that it takes. Most of the time I learn a skill get tools to do other things and save money over the pros cost. I have learned how to do most anything which gives me confidence to do more things. I think fear is like that, in that if you don't know what is comming you fear. But, after a few times doing what you were afraid of "not knowing" does not scare any more. I expect you will have many more trials and gain confidence with your new tools. The only thing to fear is fear it's self. So when you ordering the turbo?

been there ,,,done that,,,,got the t shirt,,,,learned how to weld,,,,yehaw got 200

I think it is an 8 mm and you should be able to run it in by fingers. At least far enough to assure you are straight and when it gets tight by finger if it is a new tap work it in and out in the aluminum of the head by fingers and it will go farther each time you screw in in. "BY FINGERS" DONT USE ANY THING ELSE BUT FINGERS NIK That should be enough pressure to fix the threads. Use something to measure the depth of the hole and make sure you dont go to deep by fingers. Use wd 40 or antiseze and clean the tap after each time you go in the head to take the shavings off. Clean the hole with carb cleaner and blow dry and relube if you are not going to separate the nut from the stud. I would separate and locktite the stud in with removable locktite and antisize the nut. You should be able to hold the stud with a pair of needle nose in the middle where there is no threads and get the nut off. Run a tap in the nuts to clean so they screw on with your fingers and the antseeze lube and then tighten with a 10 mm box wrench snug. Retighten after it heats up a few times and cools down. I use two fingers on the wrench "ONLY" A NEW TAP IN ALUMINUM IS DANGEROUS!!!!! GO EASY AND LUBE WITH WD OR OIL,,, THE BEST THING IS TAP FLUID FROM MACHINE SHOP FOR ALUMINUM!!!! GO EASY AND FEEL IT

I did a drawing in Inventor of the frame, rear suspension linkage and swingarm on the bird. I have been working with a engineering program called visualnastran vn4d which will answer some of the questions about the differences when you rotate the triangle or replace the dogbone with one of different lengths in reguard to force on the frame from the spring and the travel. What I am looking for is different than the answers you need, but I will have to answer yours before I can get to what I need. I am designing the spring for the assembly now but the hold up is that I am away from home and can't get dimensions, however I can put them in when I get them. I don't need them for the drawings at first just need to be close. Did not think it would be of intrest before I saw your post. I have already tried rotating the triangles and I have three dogbones lengths but so far I have only looked at the results in travel because I was not happy with the 6 inches. I have a Ohlin that is comp. and rebound adjustable and is meant to be linkless that I was going to mount to a link to provide 12" travel with more strength. Bottoms out the stock shock on the 20 foot drops you know. Anyway about the only way I can post the results is in a AVI file and that will move like the suspension and show the numbers change for location. The results will have to be a pdf of the excel outputs I guess. No promises for now but I have a lot of time in the motels over the next few weeks so we will see. Won't be much help without accurate dimensions. Still working on how to make sense of the numbers I come up with in reguard to what we want to happen. What do you guys think about the project. Do you think it will be informative? Does anybody have parts to get the dimensions off of to plug in to the drawings? Don't go taking the bikes apart as I have mine where it is easy to get them from when I get there. Stan

pm sent thanks stan

If you want to send the pan to me, I will weld it and fix the threads for a spare for somebody in the future, if that is something that might be a good idea. No cost. Just thought I would offer.

o yea i do 4 th and fifth but not for long,,,have to keep heads up so not sure about rpm and egts at that point,,,that is why i needed the recorder. na the guy on the forum was saying the rpm connection on the adapter would pickup like a inductive if wraped around the source,,,he was saying he wraped the wire around the coil on a cdi type coil and the indicator held seady,,, have not tried it yet, just trying to get everything together for when i go in to do the install. well i have left you hanging long enough,,the bike is geared down to 15/58 right now and that seames to be about right for the motor and the load. still got into 5th but was in a flat area that was bladed for a pipeline last year so was blown back to include some wicked jumps,,,,,cleared about 75 feet off of one at about 120mph indicated. have not converted the speedo till i get the gearing good. was to windy yesterday to really enjoy but the egts were at 1200 all day so not bad, but took the gage off for the last ride cause i had temp mount to the bars and was comming off and was running with about 10 bikes and the rear axel bearings locked down, taper bearings and not enough slack so after it cooled down and released rode it back slow and the temp went high but i think it was airflow not fuel but not sure.

been debating on the rpm,,, i have the nology plug wires and they are well sheilded and have a ground cable so not sure if the inductive clamp will work as well as on normal wires,,,, one of the guys on the forum at innovative had found that you could pass the wiring for the rpm over each part of the ign system and the rpm converter will signal when there is a pulse signal that will drive it and you can just rap it over it..... not sure if i understand that but i thought the cam sensor or the coil wiring would be a good test for the inductive side of the rpm converter with a stereo connector mini pen and if that was bs then try the coil wires to the input for rpm as i think it will take the voltage but not sure about the cdi part of the equation,,,,was thinking about the tack sig from the ecm... hey jred thanks for the research on the tps,,,,looks like the numbers are there to use it,,,the pc2 needs tps and rpm for the aap chart and was thinking the map would be a good input to record also for the low speed adjustments. ill keep posting how it is going here but tomorrow is rideing day and i got the egt on and gonna adjust the numbers to what i see with it. just in running at different rpms in the shop it is just to lean at 3000 to 5000 and to rich below that, not sure about upper till i have it loaded i think the egts will be a good start but want the lm1 installed and collecting,,,,i cant put the quad on a dyno till i get the street tires mounted thanks again

does anybody have the innovate wide band o2 meter hooked to the bird yet? got mine and researching rpm and tps connections before i install. looks to be rather difficult as has a max 5 volt input. does the power to the tps go above 5 volts or does the signal to the ecm stay below 5 volts? thanks if there is somebody that can help stan

this may be proof enough but if it is not there are many if you do a search for amsoil/amway really does not mater to me other than i have had many friends who went down the amway route to ruin and am as against it as any pyramid scheme ripoff of people who are down and out and looking for a way to survive what really maters to me is that this is a great company and great oil and they have been slandered with this kind of misrep. use what you want and what works for you but you are missing out on a great deal if you are misinformed and dont do your research in this or any other myths sorry if i am ranting but this has bothered me for weeks and i have to get it off my chest feel better now but will be watching http://www.performanceoiltechnology.com/al...o_interview.htm

looking at the load ratings and the calculations it would seam to me that i would run highter pressures in the front than the rear but i guess experience tells that the front has less load than the rear than i would have thought. i am going to try something and make a excel calulaction sheet and see if i can put it on here someway. something to plug your numbers into and get an indication in to how hard you ride compaired to tire wear and where the wear is. looks to me like if we did the above calc and pluged in the pressures you run and did a wear depth mesurement across the tire at every say 1000 miles with like side note in average what kind of riding you did we might actually learn why we cup and wear out and which tires perform for the type rider we are. might take away the guessing what kind of rider you are. moderator ,,,, is there some way to do this???? i'll write it if it can de done so the post are for info to all

seams to me the front tire should be a higher load rating but stopping is generally not done with added load of centrifugal force and most dont transfer all the load to the front or could be bad. i have always wondered what a tire manuf would say about the logic of my therory.bet they would say 42 reguardless of weight and i know that is wrong when it is overloaded and under loaded as with one here who was 150 on a bird. the point is know your load and rating and any difference in the way your riding is madeup in pressure. thanks for the debate stan

ok now we have something to compare: 42 / 520 = .08077 front 42 / 805 = .05217 rear 550 + 290 = 840 50/50 weight distribution = 420 front rear .08077 * 420 = 33.9230 psi front minimum .05217 * 420 = 21.91 psi rear minimum .08077 * 840 = 67.84 psi front maximum load .05217 * 840 = 43.83 psi rear maximum now this is what i was talking about when i was saying if your stoping hard or acelerating hard and loading max out as well as making g's in the corners the psi has got to be up there. ill go ahead and post this and see what you think about the numbers and the loading just for riding conditions. there was a really good article in cycleworld about the way the foot print reacts to stoping and then loading on accel on both the front and then the rear how the highest pressure and scrub moves front to back. was really discriptive i think that the min and max numbers and the loads should be a indicator as to how you ride. if you adjust your pressures in side the range and ride as you normally do and your bike reacts loose the min and max and where you are in the pressure range between the two seams to me i would know which way to go. to little and the bike tire rolls over and the patch moves to the inside instead of the front and the rear even though it is bigger,,,,, to much and the patch is to small and the same thing happens,,,,seams to me it would feel the same sorry if i made errors i did not proof read, ill corect

I'm interested, but I asked a question, you didn't answer it and the thread died. So again, in your figures, did you come up with 19 PSI??? We know that's wrong. For Bixer Bob, I hope you're kidding, That's just like the flat on the side of the road. "It's only flat on the bottom". sorry about missing your question i was watching and learning my self what were the thoughts on this thread and others as to what it is about pressure on a bike tire that makes so much difference in this calculation. it is correct in that it is the proper way to calculate the right pressure that a tire should be run at. that being said we all know that 19 is not the right pressure for the back of the xx or any other bike back tire. what is wrong is that the tire i used to calc the pressure is not the back tire for the xx . and the pressure rate to weight on the tire loading ascrues the numbers. i was hopping that somebody would go and look at the tires on their bike and get the numbers and plug them in to the calc and see what psi their tires have. the intresting thing i have found in doing this is that all tires are not the same rating and psi in the same size. is dependent in construction. they put this info on the tire to give the max weight and max psi and it says so,but we rairly run fully loaded, or even know the weight that is on the tire at any given moment. the point is footprint. if the pressure is adjusted to the weight the footprint stays the same,,, sound reasonable? please give me some numbers of the front and rear tires and size and make and lets see if there is some reasonable number for tire presure relative to weight. i have a scale to weight my tires loading and have used this number to set pressures and have been amazed at the results. intrested?

i know i will regret this,,,,, but i posted a calculation to get required tire pressures at what weight therory i have but it was not accepted well might want to ignore this i am so easy you just keep sucking me back in http://cbr.geckobox.net/forum/viewtopic.ph...7717&highlight=

i built mine from a stock header and cut and welded what i needed to make the 2 into 2 down the sides and worked fine,,,, would have bought another to get the bends i needed but came out with enough and no leftovers. i even matched to a set of ducati muffs you can do anything you want if you have a chop saw and a tig and the time. i started to put the ducs under the seat like they were on the 996 i got them from on ebay for pennies ,but was in a hurry and put them like i did which was almost like stock xx

sorry ,i missed which hole you were talking about in the post, was thinking you were describing the transfer to the cv diafram. went back and read better, i was actually refering to holley carbs butterflys we drill for larg cams with low vac to get the idle up and still draw fuel thru the transfer. when we change engines with the carb will plug the hole with solder,,,,, also will pull the plugs in the meter block and drill the idle circuit and then plug the hole back with lead pounded in to seal. none of which will work in plastic not sure if i have anything that will work in mind for that piece "nevermind" :oops: :oops:

i have done the drill thing and pluged the hole with solder and redrilled

i have been looking at wideband with data logging but are about 350 to 450 with rpm imputs , how well did your setup work for you ? do you have some info to help me with wiring the bosch and was it a wideband

the reason i was referencing the charts for the bird from powercommander was to show the changes from stock settings to stock bike after dyno to aftermarket pipes. was very intresting in the rpm and throttle settings and wheither fuel was removed or increased at that point,especilly rpm at o throttle one note they dont change the aap chart for this they change the mp for less than 10 % throttle sorry about the confusion was reference info as to what works on the dyno on the bike