Keith
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Posts posted by Keith
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Stan,
I was just poking around the DynoJet site and I don't see the Palm app listed in their
download section anymore. You may not be able to get the app, unless Manny can get
it for you. I no longer have the app, so I can't send it to you.
I dumped it when Ipurchased the PCIII USB to replace the serial version.
Edit: I found the file.
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Yeah, older Palms are cheap on eBay. I just replaced my broken Palm Vx for
$1 plus shipping; opening bid was $1 and no one else bid, so I got it for $1.
And, the device was new, had never been used. I couldn't believe it...
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If you can, try to get in touch with Manny Hauswirth in DynoJet's tech support group;
he has been very helpful to me over the years. Email: manny@dynojet.com. Hopefully,
he's still with them.
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When I had my PCIII serial version, I used the Palm app that was available on the
Power Commander web site. I put my maps in the Palm (Palm Vx) and could change
them on the road, if need be. I purchased the serial cable hook up and adapter to
make the connection from Power Command or Palm (can't remember which off hand
right now). It's a standard serial cable but you MUST get the serial adapter, as the
port is a little different on the Palm and you could blow things out with a direct
connection.
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A member here G Man hit a deer big time last month and totaled the bike. He is not going to ride any more and is still unable to leave the house (wheel chair bound) so I am going to post up his extra stuff that was not on the bike at the time of the wreck to help him out. He is on the computer so you can ask questions of him. All prices are plus shipping to the lower 48. I like to include shipping in the prices but I don't know what current prices are. The bike was a 2002.
Sorry about the get-off; get well soon!
I'll take the Double Bubble. PM sent.
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When I needed to repaint a portion of my upper fairing after repairs from a tip over,
I found that the rattle can Honda black (for cars, I'm sure) I purchased at the local
Kragen's auto parts store was an almost exact match to the 2003 black, it just doesn't
have the metal flake. After painting and rubbing it out with the polishing compound,
you have to look really hard to see the difference.
YMMV, of course, but it worked fine for me.
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Wow, is 103cc what HD calls a big bore these days?
Sorry, J/K. NBL.
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Sweet wheels! I wish I had that kind of loose cash, 'cause I'd be all over them.
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Have hunted locally for a multifunction display like that for a while... 3rd world countries don't get the good shit.
It might take me a while to get it done, due to a very hectic work schedule, but if you are interested
in this unit, I can see about acquiring one and then sending it to you. I have no idea about how much
shipping or customs might be, however.
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A "charge light", otherwise known as an "idiot light", doesn't do much more than tell
you the charging system has failed completely, which is better than nothing, I suppose.
You would be better off, IMHO, installing a voltage meter, so you can monitor the real
state of the stator/RR output. There are many available and have been mentioned
numerous times here on the board. I have one of these:
I like this one because it also has a thermometer so I can know just how hot or cold
it is
and it's relatively inexpensive. I mounted it here:
If you buy this one make sure it doesn't see water. I've gone throw 3 of them now. Won't put another on but that Acumen looks great going to have to look into it.
Good point; I forgot to mention that. I never ride in the rain and am careful around it when
washing the bike, so it didn't occur to me to include that fact.
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A "charge light", otherwise known as an "idiot light", doesn't do much more than tell
you the charging system has failed completely, which is better than nothing, I suppose.
You would be better off, IMHO, installing a voltage meter, so you can monitor the real
state of the stator/RR output. There are many available and have been mentioned
numerous times here on the board. I have one of these:
I like this one because it also has a thermometer so I can know just how hot or cold
it is
and it's relatively inexpensive. I mounted it here: -
I just ordered a new battery as I need it soon anyway so I start with that...
Then I'll go for the r/r... then stator... I guess.
If I have to get a new stator, should I get a new OEM for about $220 (from Ronayers.com) or a Rick (for $140)? Any good recommendations?
Is this the left side cover gasket I'm supposed to order too?
http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module...CRANKCASE_COVER
Yes, that is the gasket you need. Personally, I went with an OEM stator. My brother had a bunch of trouble
with an after market stator and ended going back to an OEM. YMMV, of course.
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I'm afraid that even I run a charging system check, it still won't show up as the symptom is now only intermittent.
Yeah, you're probably right on that. I don't know what to tell you; you could change out
the stator before it fails completely or wait it out....
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That is a lot like what my voltage meter indicated when my stator went. Yours might
be in the process of failing but not yet failed completely (intermittent). Try running
the charging system tests and see what the readings tell you.
Readings on the meter: ignition on but not running: 12.4v, running at fast idle: 13.5v,
running at >3000 RPM: between 14v and 15v, depending on outside temperature (my
charging system seems to run a bit higher voltage when the ambient temps are high,
like above 80 degrees).
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I ran my IP on that site....it was about 5 miles off of my location...
My IP is only off by about 2 miles...that's scary. :icon_shifty:
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I checked my spare Yammi R/R and got the readings shown under yours
in the image. If I reverse the leads and measure with black on the green,
I get an open. Hope this helps.
EDIT: I used the high resistance setting the first time. I re-measured with the lower
resistance setting; see my second image, which pretty closely matches yours.
Sorry for any confusion.
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Here is what Joe sent me and here are my results in BOLD:
(The battery was charged overnite and it had been off the charger for about an hour when I ran this test. The bike fired up immediately and all the gauges and lights functioned normally.)
<snip>
So, based on this I am assuming the stator is bad.
The wires to the regulator looked fine, not stiff or discolored.
Yes, that sounds like the stator. Your bike failure and testing sounds pretty much exactly how
mine went three years ago, and it was the stator. I replaced both stator and R/R, just in case
the R/R was a root cause of the stator failure.
As Mike mentions, a volt meter mounted on the bike is a handy tool to help you identify a
problem with the charging system before it strands you out in the middle of nowhere. I put
one on my bike after the stator failed so I can keep an eye on charging voltage when I'm
out riding.
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I have to add another vote for the EBC HH pads. I haven't tried any other brands, other
than the OEMs that cam on the bike, but the HH pads are worlds better than OEM. They
bite hard and right now. Very good stopping power, IMO. They've been on for 15k
miles and I don't see any undue wear on the rotors, so I don't think they are any harder
on the rotors than the OEMs.
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Having suffered a similar break (dropped the 'bird on the left side and broke off most of
that same section of fairing), I can give you my experience. That section of my fairing was
in about six pieces. I located some ABS epoxy at the hardware store, which I hoped would
work on gluing everything back together. I first test fit all the pieces so I knew I had all of
them, then ground the edges (on the inside) to form a large V-section to hold the epoxy,
being careful to not go all the way through to the outside. I mixed the epoxy as specified
in the instructions, assembled the pieces into one large complete unit, then let it cure. When
it had cured, I then mixed more epoxy and assembled the large unit onto the rest of the
fairing. When that was cured, I sanded and then applied three or four coats of primer/filler,
allowing complete drying in between coats. When the last coat was dry, I sanded, using
progressively finer sand paper, ending with 1000 grit, until all was smooth. I shot it with
Honda black paint, two coats. Then rubbing, polishing, cleaner wax stages until it was all
smooth, then stripped the wax and shot it all with clear coat. It came out very well and,
after three years, the ABS epoxy is still holding fine.
It all worked fine for me; YMMV, of course.
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I have some titanium to pay for.
I've got a bunch of that in my ankle you can have.
But seriously, I'm sorry to hear about your back problems and I hope someone
buys the bike soon. Good luck and God bless.
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Queue Todd!
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Is that the right one? The text says it's for a CBR1100 and an ST1300. :icon_think: Are they the same unit?
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...I imagine this would be fantastic for rider/passenger set-ups too.
Thanks for the report! We'll definitely be looking at this helmet when replacement time
comes around. Maybe replace them a little bit early just to get the better system.
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The only thing i haven't tried yet is rider-to-rider linking.
I'll be looking forward to your report. My wife and I use the Cardo Rider
Team Set Bluetooth rider-to-passenger comm system and we're not 100%
satisfied with it. When it comes time to replace our helmets (maybe two
years or so), I would consider the Element if it works well.
'07 ST1300 **SOLD**
in The Sales Floor -- For Sale/Wanted
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I'd really like to have that ST, but no way the funds are there. At 8400+ miles, I could
register it in CA with no problem. I know the better half and I could enjoy that for two
up touring. Good luck with the sale.