testrider

I don't know what they mean by "cut the banjo fittings" but I wouldn't do it. Not to insult your knowledge, but banjo fittings are the part on the end of the brake and clutch lines. In no way should they be molested. Perhaps they meant cutting the plastic cable ties that secure to brake lines to other parts. I have Heli on my 97 XX. What they meant by "cutting the banjo fittings" was actually "cutting the banjo fitting tabs". If you look at your current clutch and brake cables, you see there is a small metal tab that stops the cable from moving. When you put on the taller Helibar, you will have to rotate the cables a little.

Can I run both HI and LO with 65w or are they going to burn up my wiring/sockets? I ride with both HI & LO on most of the time during daytime.

It was me who started that thread last year. - Don't tighten the banjo bolts when you route the lines. Turn your handle bar full left and full right to check for clearance before you tighten everything. I didn't do that and now the lines at the master cyclinder rubs a little on the dash when I turn it full left.

Thanks for the info. So it comes as a cover+diaphragm just like the picture you posted in the 1st post? Thanks again. -mike-

I have a small pump, and drained the tank. It's now upside-down on a blanket. It's much easier to work with it this way. The petcock stop at the off mark it shuts of the flow, but a couple of mm offset, fuel flows. Could you tell us where you ordered the diaphragm and how much does it cost? Mine is a 97 and may be it's a good idea to replace it before it leaks... (Ron Ayers doesn't list the diaphragm separately) I assume that with the petcock turned off, removing the diaphragm will not cause any gas to run out? Thanks! -mike

Redbird, how does the protection of Sidi On Road compare with, let's say, Alpinestar SMX? From the look of the Sidi, it seems that it doesn't have the side-to-side protection of the ankles? Thanks! -mike-

Looks like only their "Extended Life 5/150" is silicate free. See here: http://www.prestone.com/carcare/faq.php

Has anyone tried these bags from JC Whitney, they look like Givi knock off: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Browse/...0014603/c-10111

I have been using only OEM Bridgestone BT57 and they last from 10000 to 14000 miles a set.

Now you start getting some experience. Think about it this way: if a shop forgot to put that spacer back in (yes it could happen), they will leave it as is and tell you that "it's ok, they all do that" and send you on your way... :-) At least you caught that and you fixed it with a buddy's help. So you're doing well. -mike= Ya think? Well no one cares about MY bike but ME......although from my results of fucking things up......I'm not so sure. Anyway live and learn. When the I pulled the rear axle bolt out originally.....I didn't notice the spacer that fell down.....only the bolt and washer....it seems to be back in order now. Will ride it tomorrow to test it out but seems fine again.

May I ask how much did you pay for the chain + sprockets? Thanks. I may need a set soon.

But after the sidestand was canted, wouldn't that make the bike lean way over while it's on sidestand?

Ok, to take off the pedal, I just keep turning the nut on the pushrod, right? When I tried to turn it, the rubber got twisted. Is the rubber supposed to turn with the nut or not? Sorry for the dumb question :-) Thank you all!

Nice work! You really went the extra mile to get the brake pedal lowered... :-) Is the stock brake lever aluminum or steel?

So you pedal is now stopped by the push rod nut, correct?

John, By "cutting the adjusting screw" I supposed that you made it thinner so that you have a little more room for adjustment? That won't be enough for me. I will have to remove it completely to get the height I want... -mike- Thats fine. I had to cut the adjusting screw to get mine to adjust enough.

Hi all, After installing the lowered foot peg brackets of Dave, my rear brake pedal is too high. However, it was already adjusted to the lowest. I'm wondering it it's ok to remove the upper adjustment nut completely so that the brake pedal presses on the push rod nut and therefore the brake pedal is lowered? Thanks! -mike-

Have you checked your valves? Were they in spec or out? Thanks. -mike-

Very funny. Does this really exist or was it a Photoshop job?

Ok, I'm going to skip it this time and may be I'll try to check it myself when I have time. Thanks, guys. I appreciate your inputs.

Hi all, My 97 XX just turned over 32000 miles. The manual calls for a valve check. We have never heard anybody needs a valve adjustment on the bird, right? :-) Should I just skip it until 48k miles or should I have it check? Thanks! -mike-

SO, how's you new shock?

I ordered mine from Lindemann. When I found the incorrect shock this weekend, I emailed both Lindemann and Penske since I know Lindemann orders the shock shipped from Penske built to his spec. Received an email back from Penske first thing this morning. They are sending me a new spring overnight express and just told me to send back the one I have after I get it exchanged. Overall, a very positive customer service response. I assume Lindmann called Penske this morning and found out they were dealing with the problem. Prior to purchasing the shock, I had several conversations with Jim Lindemann regarding what he would suggest for the type of riding I did, Great guy and very helpful. I see. So you have the tool to compress/replace the spring yourself?

Not yet. I checked the shock over before installing and found the spring had "1200" painted on it. Emailed Penske, and they said it should be a "1000". Hopefully, they will overnight a "1000" to me so I can get it installed before this weekend. I'll keep you posted. So did you order yours from Lindeman? Did they give you an exchange or did you have to deal with Penske yourself?

Birdman, done installing your Penske shock yet?