testrider
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Posts posted by testrider
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I have a lightbar mounted below the plate on each of my bikes.
On the XX i removed the lower bulb and replaced it with one of these. (red one) http://www.strobe.com/component/option,com...ufacturer_id,0/
Super bright strobe.
How much is it? That web site doesn't have price. Also, is it RED or YELLOW?
Thanks.
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Forgive my stupidity, Joe, but I'm not quite following the concept.
Exactly where is the device installed and how are the scales read?
A couple of photos illustrating the device in use on a real motorcycle
might convince me to buy one.
I like to know too. How exactly does it work? Looks like some printed paper rulers?
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There is a complete set of plastics here on eBay for $579 Buy-it-now:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-CBR11...emZ220283058868
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Is there anything I should do to the new chain while it's off the bike? It's easier to clean/treat off the cycle...Or just lube it once it's installed?
Not going to start a "lube war" or anything...but I'm going with Blue label PJ1
Mike
I don't clean a new chain as it came from the factory fully oiled and lubed (DID ZVM2).
After installing it, I usually sprayed an additional light coat of lube on it.
I have used the Blue label PJ1 before and I didn't like it. After spraying it on the chain and after it dried off, it left a very sticky residue like superglue and all kind of junks stuck to it.
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The longer front wheel spacer is on your right side as you sit on your bike.
I got my pads from ronayers.com. It's EBC FA261HH and fits front and rear:
http://www.ronayers.com/catalogs/pu/parts....mp;startrow=397
OK Just checking to be really sure.
I have the larger front wheel spacer on the right side if you look at the bike straight in front of the bike. It should go on the left??? I drove the bike about 100miles and did not feel any different?? I hope I did not screw things up. If I have to flip it back around I guess It would be a good time to change the pads??? Please confirm.
Greg
That's right. If you sit down in front of bike, look straight to the front wheel, the longer spacer is on the left.
Ok, when you jack up your front wheel now, does it turn freely? Does the wheel center between the fork legs?
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The longer front wheel spacer is on your right side as you sit on your bike.
I got my pads from ronayers.com. It's EBC FA261HH and fits front and rear:
http://www.ronayers.com/catalogs/pu/parts....mp;startrow=397
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However, by sitting for more than 8 years, it will definitely need a new set of tires and clutch/brake hoses at the minimum. How do the chain/sprockets look? Wonder if the O-ring in the chain dries out over time too?
Disagree. That bike was not stored outside in the weather- just look at it! I'd jump on it and ride it across country with those tires and brake hoses- no problem. Just check tire pressures and change brake/clutch fluids. Are you seriously worried about a 786 mile use o-ring chain as well? Your fears and worries are baseless in this case, amigo.
Gorgeous bike, wish you good luck with the sale.
You obviously don't know much about 'tire shelf life'. Tires have a shelf life of 3 to5 years max and after that, the rubber dried out (internally that you can't see) and hardened.
Just google it or call any tire manufacturer customer support line. Here is a typical link:
http://www.tireguardusa.us/articles/whenTh...eetsTheRoad.php
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Thank you everyone for the nice comments and information. I drove this one off the show room floor for $11,665 back on 5/24/2000. I can still remember how impressed I was with this new bike.
What happened that you only put 786 miles in more than 8 years? Got other bikes?
BTW, what year does the XX come with LCD? I saw this one still got the analog gauge?
Does the 2000 XX have engine temp display?
This is a nice bike with super-low mileage! However, by sitting for more than 8 years, it will definitely need a new set of tires and clutch/brake hoses at the minimum. How do the chain/sprockets look? Wonder if the O-ring in the chain dries out over time too?
Did it get the recall done? I believe it was something about a defective wire hardness of the 1999-2000 model XX?
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I'm on my 4th set of Pilot Roads and the last set I purchased
looked exactly like yours with a single irregular line around
the curcumference of the rear tire. My previous 3 sets did not,
and I always purchase from the same supplier (ridedirect.com).
I was concerned, fearing a manufacturing defect, but after 500
miles or so, the line scuffed away completely. Everything's cool.
Thank you all, I'm going to keep them.
My current tires are Bridgestone Battlax BT-57 (the only brand/model I have been running since 1999 and I'm on my 4th set) and have about 9500 miles so I will replace soon. The BT-57 lasted a long time for my type of riding (commuting and long trips with occasional twisties.) They lasted an average of 11k-12k miles when they hit the wear bars. How do the Pilot Road compare to the BT-57?
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A 2003 XX with 7500 miles for $6000 sounds like a good deal. A bike of that kind of low mileage probably don't have too many things that need to be checked. Here are just my opinions:
- check the VIN for any accident in record
- check for any cosmetic damage (body works)
- check the chain/sprockets for rust as they are probably still original and that was 5-6 years ago. A new chain/sprockets is about $220 + labor (probably at least another $150. I'm not sure as I did my own works) to install them.
- battery is probably on its last leg if it's still the original. It's another $100-$120 or so for FI bird.
- it said about the title: "Clear (most titles)", not sure what that means? Does he have or not have the title?
- check the tires. It said "rear tire Dunlop qualifier with 200 mi" and that doesn't mean a thing. Qualifier tires are designed to last only a few hundred miles and they may not even be legal to ride on public roads. So you have to figure in another $350-$400 for a new set of tires (parts and labor) after you bought it.
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The Michelin's puts a small Barcode on the bead, as to where the "heavy spot" lyes.
Is that right? I do see the bar codes on the tires, just didn't know that's 'heavy spot' indicator too.
Thanks!
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I've seen those lines on 3 different PR rears now...
It must be something to do with the way the rubber is injected, or seemed, or something... but in any event, it's never caused a problem that I know of.
In fact.... one is on my Rear PR right now...
Thank you all, I appreciate your inputs and comments. I was worried that the new tire I received might be defective but you all now put my mind at ease :-)
I also saw the same lines on kneedraggers.com's web site:
http://www.kneedraggers.com/details/Michel...MICHELIN-4.html
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Since the left line runs along the whole circumference of the tire and even into the depth of the voids between the threads, may be that's the way it is from the factory? I can't see how it got on it any other ways. Since it's obvious and passed their factory inspection, can I assume that's normal?
Since Pilot Road are so popular here on XX, I wonder what other people see?
Thanks.
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Sounding more and more like the symptoms I was having before the stator gave up it's ghost....
Ya -- i was trying to walk him through a stator test this afternoon but he got a bit spooked by the prospect -- what should the bird do --bout 80 acv on all 3 legs ?
How do you test the stator? I have a R1 R/R on my 97 XX and it worked great. Everything is fine at 44k miles. What are the symptoms of a stator that's on its last leg?
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Hi all,
I just received the 2 Michelin PR tires from sportbiketrackgear.com. This is the 1st time I have the Michelin and 1st time I mail order tires:
- See the attached picture, there are 2 lines running along the rear tire in the complete circumference. Are these normal?
(The one in the center I'm pretty sure is normal as it looks like a raised mold line but the one on the left looked like a small indent that runs even into the void between the threads)
- There is no yellow or red paint marking the light spot of the tire like other brands?
- There was no packing/wrapping whatsoever inside the box. They just put the 2 tires inside a cardboard box. How do the other vendors ship tires?
Thanks for any comments.
-mike-
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It is not uncommon, nor recommended, to seat beads at twice their rated pressure. The safest method is to use a ton of soapy water and try to not exceed max psi. At the shop we tend to go double the max pressure.
Hell, i am insured at work, and so are the tires. Besides, who's got time to wait for beads to pop? Sometimes setting the tire out in the sun for a while, makes the rubber more pliable, hence beads easier. The danger isn't only in if the tire will explode, the danger also lies in the fact that the tire can pop over the bead and cause the rim to jump if not secured. Whenever we seat beads, we put the rim in a fixture, or hold the tire vertical. Don't want the tire slapping the ground and driving the rim into your chin.Thanks for the advise. I just saw on Michelin's site a paragraph pertaining to the bead seating and it did to not exceed 60 psi on their tires:
6. Remove the valve core from the valve stem. Inflate to 60 psi maximum. Make sure that the beads are seated properly.
Determine if tire is properly seated by observing the guide ribs in relation to the wheel, making sure they are not eccentric. Guide ribs are raised narrow ribs of rubber on the lower tire sidewall
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I just had a blow out coming home from work on the ole BB. The rear tire popped. Weird, not a bad tire, plenty of life left, just blew a hole dead center. Anyhow, no harm done, didn't wipe out or do damage to me or the bike.
So, I know it might be on here, but I am going to replace front and rear and am interested to see what tires you all like for your XX's.
That was weird that it blew a hole dead center...
How big was the hole?
What tires were you using when it blew?
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Don't forget the soap and water.
Yes, the NoMar tire changer came with a can of tire lube paste and a bottle of tire lube spray...
So I will just keep pumping it up (after removing the valve core) until I hear 2 pops (both sides of the tire)?
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The 42 psi is max operating pressure. You won't hurt the tire by going higher when seating the beads.
Thanks, Jim!
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Congrats on your new No-Mar stuff. I've had the same gear for a couple of years and love it. Watch the videos a few times to get the hang of it. If you are working hard, there's a good chance you are doing something wrong. (I still do that sometimes.
)My tire beads usually seat easily. I never have to go higher than 40 or 50 psi.
I bought my last set of Michelin tires here. Sport Bike Track Gear They had the best Michelin prices I could find. The service was great too. Of course, Southwest Moto Tires is another popular place to buy tires.
Thank you all, for your help. I appreciate it. Yes, I did watch all the videos on their web site but none of them showed how to seat the beads.
I'm going to order the Michelin Pilot Road as my current tires have probably another 1000 miles before it hits the wear bars.
I got the NoMar Classic Ultimate II and substituted the floor stand with a 2" receiver hitch mount so I won't have to drill holes and bolt it permanently in my garage (just too much junks :-) ). NoMar posts sales on eBay from time to time and I got it thru eBay for free shipping (that was about $100 shipped to CA.)
-mike-
PS: Just check Sportbiketrackgear has the set of Michelin PR for $255 while SW has them for $260.
The side walls max air pressure are 42 psi. There is no danger to run it up to 60-70 psi while seating beads? 60 or 70 psi are way over the stated max, no? Is there a danger of it blowing up?
Also, where do you take your used tires to recycle?
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Hi all,
I just got a Nomar classic and balancer to install my own tires and I have never done it before. How much air pressure do you usually pump up until the beads seat? I would assume that I should never exceed the max tire pressure on the side walls even to seat the beads?
Thanks for any help.
-mike-
PS: I have been using only the Bridgestone BT-57 since I bought my 97 XX in 1999 and got about 10k miles on a set. This time, I like to try Michelin Pilot Roads (90% commute, 10% twisties.) What's a good place to order tires?
Here is what I just got:
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I've got the Heli-bars with a Ram mount for the Garmin 2610 as shown in the above picture, but it is mounted to my clutch reservoir. It has two swivel points so I can maneuver it anyway I want. I check clearances at full left and right locks, then set it and forget it. I'll see if I can post the two pictures I took.
Tony
Edited: Clear of all gages. Direct connect to the battery with fuse in-line.
Hi Tony,
- Is this the Ram Mount model that you used (http://www.gpscity.com/ramb309-1)?
- Does it just use the longer bolt to thread into the existing nuts of the clutch clamp?
Thanks!
-mike-
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I changed my chain and sprockets at 18k. The chain was pretty bad, but the rear sprocket pretty much looked new and the front wasn't in bad condition. I've always just changed both sprockets when I swap chains out of habit. I still have the original OEM rear on hand. And I would recommend not using an aluminum rear. The one I have on now has about 18k miles on it and is starting to look fairly worn, yet the chain isn't in bad shape for the moment. Definitely agree on the previous comments about the rear OEM being well made.
Bun
What's the brand/marking on the original rear sprocket?
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So it only took 94k miles but I finally had 3 tight valves. They weren't out of spec, but just tight enough to be worth doing. The spark plugs were changed at 30k and they still were clean working well. Not worth 100 bucks for new ones.
Did a compression check. 170 for 1,2 and 4. 160 for #3.
Over all. Not bad for 94k miles. Dino oil all the way.
Very cool, Mike! What's the compression supposed to be?
Me too I have a 97XX with 44k miles. What have you replaced so far?
Nothing went wrong on mine. I upgraded the CCT, replaced the stock R/R with a R1 R/R and that was it (beside plugs/chain/sprockets/tires of course).
HID installation pictures?
in The Garage
Posted
Hi all,
I just bought a set of HID conversion kit and I tried to search for the instructions/pictures used to be on here but couldn't find them anymore.
I'm trying to figure out how to fit the bulb/wiring/rubber to the headlight housing of the XX.
I would appreciate any help.