testrider

I like to hear it too. I'm 5'10 and I've tried: -Givi windshield: the wind was hitting me below the helmet made the noise too loud -MRA Vario with adjustable spoiler: it didn't matter where I adjusted it, the wind hit me about the same place: at the helmet and it was just loud -Givi with MRA spoiler: I removed the spoiler from the MRA and installed it on the Givi and the wind hit me at the eye level. Still very loud. I'm still trying to find a solution for a quiet ride :-)

I always replaced the valve stems when I replaced my tires. It's cheap at $1 a piece as I don't want it to split then caused an instant deflation. Size? I have no clue. I bought a 10-pack motorcycle rubber stems from www.nomartirechanger.com. I cut off the old one, then use a valve stem install tool to pull the new one in.

Thanks!

Could you link to harbor Freight where that 'blind bearing puller' is so I can get the right one? Thanks! I just changed out my rear wheel bearings last tire change, as one had a rough spot in it. I purchased a blind bearing puller from Harbor Freight and it worked great. I had to put a little heat on the wheel with a map gas torch to get them started and then they came right out. I could have used Jon's advise though, because I DID leave the the spacer out and had to pull one back out. You might check the microfiche because there is an o-ring that seals moisture out that I was glad I ordered with the bearings and seals.

Thanks. It said "Sorry, 'www.umotorsfargo.com' does not exist or is not available."...

I took another testride this morning for about 2 hours and it never happened again so it was the R1 regulator that failed (intermittently). I replaced my original OEM r/r in April 2006 with a Yamaha R1 r/r when my 97 XX had 27k miles as a precaution. Now the R1 r/r has failed after only 23k miles, while the original OEM r/r is still working fine. Well, I have to rethink about getting another R1 r/r...

Thanks. I just retested the R1 r/r I removed yesterday. From the Electrosport diagnostic chart, step C: -2nd step: when putting the black probe on the OUTPUT of the r/r and RED probe on the YELLOW wires, mine showed about 0.7V, while the chart said it should be around 0.5V. I guess that's still good? - Same as the 4th step. With the RED probe on the ground pin of the r/r and black probe on the YELLOW wires, I got around 0.7V on all 3 YELLOW wires while the chart said 0.5V. If it's ok, then the R1 r/r had no problem.

Thanks. It does. I'm going to retest it again. I went ahead to reinstall the Honda OEM I removed when I installed the R1. It was still good when I took it off my bike. However, since I already cut off the stock wiring connector to wire the R1, I had to cut off the plastic shroud on the OEM r/r, then used a Dremel to file down 2 of the wider connector pins, before I could put it back on the same wiring.

Thanks! I'm going to order a new one for backup.

Ok, guys, I removed the tail and followed the electrosport charging system diagnotic chart (http://www.cbr1100xx.org/files/reference/charging_diag.pdf) and I have a couple of questions: - on step B, it said to measure the resistance between any 2 yellow wires and if they are lower than 0.5 Ohm or higher than 2 Ohms then the stator is at fault. However, looking at my Honda shop manual for my 1997 XX, it said if the resistance is from 0.22 Ohm to 0.26 Ohm it's ok. What gives? Mine measured all 0.2 Ohm between any 2 YELLOW wires and it should be OK according the Honda shop manual? - on step C, 1st step said "disconnect the R/R from the bike, then use the diode-test function to best the output wire of the R/R and any YELLOW wire." If the R/R is disconnected from the bike and you are measuring between 1 of the R/R pin and 1 of the wire on the bike, what can it exactly measure? It doesn't make sense here. I'd appreciate any help and comments. THanks. -mike-

Yeah, you're probably right on that. I don't know what to tell you; you could change out the stator before it fails completely or wait it out.... I just ordered a new battery as I need it soon anyway so I start with that... Then I'll go for the r/r... then stator... I guess. If I have to get a new stator, should I get a new OEM for about $220 (from Ronayers.com) or a Rick (for $140)? Any good recommendations? Is this the left side cover gasket I'm supposed to order too? http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module...CRANKCASE_COVER

I'm afraid that even I run a charging system check, it still won't show up as the symptom is now only intermittent. Last night when I rode home on the freeway it happened again. This time it dropped to 12.4V for about 15-20 minutes before it went back up to 13.9V.

Hi bartonmd, Got a web site or phone number of Mike at UMotors that I can order one if I find out that it's my regulator that's failing? Thanks. -mike-

I'm pretty sure it wasn't the HID. When I saw it dropped to 12.4V at 4000 rpm @ 70+ mph, I turned off the HID (I installed a switch to turn it on/off independently) and it was still at 12.4V. After 2 or 3 minutes or so, it went back up to normal at 13.9V. So, should I just leave it for a few more days and keep my eyes on the Datel or should I just go ahead and replace the regulator or stator? Will it die suddenly and leave me stranded? Thanks again. -mike-

Hi all, I have a 97 XX with 50k miles. Yesterday when I rode to work on the freeway at around 70 mph (4000 rpm), the Datel voltage monitor suddenly showed 12.4V, instead of the usual around 13.9V. It lasted about 2, 3 minutes then it went back to normal (13.9V) and didn't happen again. Today, I rode to work again on the freeway and it happened exactly as yesterday. It dropped to 12.4V for 2 minutes or so, then went back up to 13.9V and didn't happen again. What exactly happened? I installed a R1 regulator 3 years ago at around 27k miles and it has been working flawlessly. By the way, the R1 regulator puts out around 14-14.1V at 4000 rpm since it was new and is normal. The battery is 5 years old but still cranking strong. I have a HID low beam so it already draws less than the stock low beam (35w vs 55w). I'd appreciate any inputs and comments. Thank you very much. -mike-

Thank you for all the info. When the cruise control is set and when it pulls or releases the throttle linkage, does the hand throttle also move by itself? Do you have to remove your right hand from the throttle when the cruise is engaged?

Thanks guys, it's going to the switched power then...

I just got the Audiovox ccs100 cruise control and I'm reading all the instructions/write-ups before I started. The question is (see attached pic): - Is there any reason why I can't wire the RED wire from the servo to the same switched 12V source, together with the RED wire from the control switch? I don't want the servo still gets a live 12V when the ignition is off. Thanks. -mike-

Mike, Thanks for the reply. I appreciate it. - did you drill the hole on the flat part while it was still on the throttle body? Was there enough room to get a hand drill down there? - have you tried without a vacuum canister first? I wonder if it works without one? - why a 3-way check valve? I thought a 1-way check valve and a T-connector is ok? Something like this: engine vacuum <----- check valve <------- T-connector<----- canister Then connect the T-connector to the cruise? - Did you set the Audiovox switches the same as per the link for the EFI XX? Thanks again. -mike-

Thanks for the pointer. I'll do that. -mike-

Hi all, I just ordered an Audiovox ccs-100 cruise control on Amazon.com for $90 shipped. My XX is a 97 with carb. Does anybody have any pics of the throttle linkage where the ccs100 cable attached to? Thanks. -mike- PS: This is the only link I found but it's an EFI XX: http://home.comcast.net/~steve.huminski/cb...ndex_cruise.htm

Here. That's in another post. Am I supposed to search all the posts before I ask? Always proofread to make sure you don't any words out. Sure. You too. You left a word out... :-) Damn, come on over and let me buy you a beer...

I guess you think you are smart. But where did bartonmd said he's using ccs100? I must miss it. Do you anything else useful to add? I assume you got the Audiovox ccs100? Does it work on the XX without the additional vacuum canister? Reading is fundamental.

I assume you got the Audiovox ccs100? Does it work on the XX without the additional vacuum canister?

Just saw a group buy on pashnit.com : http://www.pashnit.com/product/motobatt.html It's an AGM battery, $80 shipped, and rated for 14 Ah.