Speed99
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Posts posted by Speed99
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Can you chrome my BALLS you asshole ?
Your balls don't sit still long enough to get plated. :grin: As soon as I practice and get it right, I will give you all a shout.
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Sounds as though I need to make another trip south Rick! :grin:
You can use mine as a "TEST PROJECT" if you like. :wink:
You'll be kept busy doing HD pieces for your dad.
Bring your ass back down here and we will chrome some stuff! :grin:
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How big of stuff will you be able to chrome?
No swingarms or wheels, just small stuff?
I will be able to chrome ANYTHING with enough time and money. :grin:
Tank plating systems limit your product size to the size of the tank and the size of the rectifier (i.e. amount of juice) running through the system. For example, a 5 amp rectifier is good for parts around 30 sq inches. A 10 amp rectifier is good for anything around 100 square inches. I have the tank systems to do copper and nickel.
Brush plating (on the other hand) has no limits to product size. You attach the negative lead to the product and the positive lead to a handle that has a copper or nickel wand. you dip this in solution and 'brush' it over the product. Now, this is not like brushing paint...there are not streaks or brush marks. The major difference is the TIME it takes. If I wanted to do a swingarm (like the one on my bike which I WILl do. :grin:), then I will have to brush the copper...polish it....brush the nickel....polish it, then brush the chrome. Hence...triple plating!
We got the tank systems to reduce our labor on smaller parts AND to allow us to Electroform (plating non-metallic surfaces.) For electroforming, there is a conductive spray that you apply to the surface of the non-metallic. You have to tank plate the copper in this process. After that, you can tank plate the nickel or brush since the surface is now metallic.
$10,000 question: why didn't you get a tank system for chrome?
Answer: Laws! The waste from chrome plating in tanks is bad and the EPA hates it. They have made it illegal for new operations in Florida (old companies are grandfathered in) and the trend is going that way for more and more states. BRUSH plating chrome creates no waste water pollution and is safe....therefore: EPA happy!
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All,
NOTE: This post is foreplay! I have JUST acquired the system to do plating and will be practicing before offering discounted services to friends.
On that note...I have acquired the system necessary to do plating on metallic and non-metallic parts. The system includes tank and brush plating for copper and nickel and brush plating for chrome, hard chrome, black chrome, and gold. I have yet to plate a single part, but in the two months of researching this topic, I have learned a ton!
Lil' bro, dad, and I wanted to have the system because we were sick of paying people like Hardley Ableson $3 for a single chrome bolt. Now we can do it on our own. The first thing I am going to do is the rearsets on the Bird.
Anyway...just wanted to give you all a heads up. After some playing around, I hope to be able to provide quality plating to others....the turn-around and service will still suck, but it will be cheap! :grin::grin::grin::grin:
-Rick
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LOL that's what I was just going to ask. I still have dual pipes. How often do they need repacking? Is it a difficult procedure? Roughly how much time does it take to do? Lastly, where do you get thefiberglass to repack it with? I'm not opposed to wrenching, in fact I enjoy it, so I have a decent assemblage of tools and what not from working on my car. Does it take any specialized tools?
The only SPECIAL tool you should have is a pop-rivet gun....and some poprivets. You will need to drill out the old rivets and pop in new ones during re-assembly. It is a pretty easy job.....just wear glovers. There are instructions out there somewhere. One of the issues of Motorcyclist had a How To on it within the last year. I am also sure if you goto any of the exhaust companies online, you will find something.
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Florida ain't the SOUTH, it's a YANKEE state. No accent or nothing. The SOUTH ends in Georgia
True! Florida is Havana North. :grin::grin::grin:
OK (NASCAR aside), so all of the suspension threads mention going with a stiffer spring on the rear...correct? I think that is what I read, but now I am not sure.
So you are saying that adding a spring rubber would affect preload, but would it perform "similar" to adding a stiffer spring? If this is something that could help out the ride, I doesn't really matter where the technology came from. "If" the spring rubber would work, than I think it would be a lot quicker and easier make a quick suspension adjustment without having to do a whole lot of work.
I already alluded to the fact that my suspension knowledge is low, but I have not heard anything yet that would indicate this is a bad idea. (tapping foot) I'm waiting!!! :grin::grin::grin:
Cameron,
The spring rubber they showed on MY tv was way too big for the bike....man, it was like 3 feet wide and 6 inches think.
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All,
Seriously....don't flame me too badly please, but:
I was tuning in and out of the Rockingham race between checking shit off my 'Honey Do" list this weekend and noticed them talking about spring rubbers and how they will stiffen the chassis. It got me thinking....
Now...knowing just enough about suspension to have the knowledge to ask this question: Could spring rubbers help stiffen up the rear of the Bird? What would the effects be? Advantages? Disadvantages?
Let me know.
-Rick
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Yea, whew, everything seems back to normal, so I drop it into 1st to try and spin that back tire a few more times.
Blaine, Blaine, Blaine, Blaine, Blaine, ....... <rattle> (The sound of Rick smiling and shaking his head.)
Dude, NO MORE BURN-OUTS! Step awaaaaay from the clutch! :grin::grin::grin::grin:
Good luck bro.
-Rick
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a long time ago mac posted a link to handy stands and a nice little write up about them. i purchased a set, they were only about $108 delivered and they work great.
I concur! I have this set and they work well. The only problem is that the front stands raise the bike at the forks, so if you want to do front suspension work (i.e. remove he forks), you will need something else. I had the bike up on these stands for two weeks while I polished the wheels and it stood with no problems.
The only thing with the Handy Stands (not sure if this is a rule) is to make sure you raise the bike's back end first and then the front.
-Rick
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mine comes on after 40000 rpm s
So I take it the light comes on right around 653 MPH?? :wink:
-Rick
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Hugo, thanks for the Luggage Crash Test. I have those bags and have stayed awake many nights wondering how they would hold up if they flew off the bike at high speeds. :grin: Seriously though, those bags ride great and they are easy as hell to take off and put on.
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Not sure I can answer that, but in comparing tire for tire....it seems the Avons have faired as well (if not better) than any other brand out there. Plus.....we have no reviews on the Shinko
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I don't think I'm kidding
I want a tire that will stick good (turbo), so obviously the standard Avon 46 is out.I have had a hard time breaking my 46 loose, but I haven't pushed it REAL hard in the turns. In a straight line it sticks just fine under the hardest acceleration I can put into it. Am I missing something?
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If you need any help with scanning, compiling tables of parts, or whatever, I'll be happy to.
Thanks Carlos. I should be able to get the drawings and lists together on my own, but will need some help hosting the files so I can link to them from this thread.
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Nice work! You gonna post the plans and list?
Thanks guys.
Yeah, I probably should get more info together for you guys. I did most of it from my head, but I do have dimensions, basic designs, and materials written out. I will put it together on the computer and get it out here for everyone.....give me about a week. In case you are interested, I did this project for under $500....not including stools. In fact, the stools cost more than the freekin bar. :grin:
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Judy and I have talked all year about building a bar on our back porch for all the parties we have. Seeing as how I had no idea what to get her for Christmas, I took advantage of her being in California to tackle the project. She left for CA on the Thursday before Christmas and was to return on the Tuesday before Christmas. That gave me six days to design and build this thing and get it done before she got home so it would be a total surprise.
Surprisingly, it only took me three straight days of building to complete it...which was good since I needed to clean up the house for guests coming over on Christmas Eve.
It is a standard 43" bar top height. I sketched the design on paper, made a materials list and built it totally from scratch with no plans other than my drawings. It was exhausting, but well worth it. Judy was completely surprised.
LOTS OF PICS:
The porch before the build. The patio table only supported 6 people comfortably. The bar was built to fix this problem:
The porch cleared of stuff:
Basic 2x4 framing:
Framing with Shelves:
Added the siding and foot-rest:
Began work on the marble top. Got marble squares from Home Depot for $1.60 a square foot:
Finished bar:
Marble Top:
Wrapped for Christmas:
Judy and Oldest Girl-Child after opening bar! Judy is telling he mom in CA about the gift:
We found some stools on Christmas Eve to prepare for the party. Judy on the phone again:
The bar is open for Christmas Eve party:
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OK....back on topic.
Here is a thought and I only preface it with the fact that I mentioned previously that I have no knowledge of exhaust.
My original thought is to run the exhaust as mocked up in the picture. My initial thought is to hide them in the rear cowl to the LEFT and RIGHT of the seat frame, but inside the body work. Cut holes in the body work for a custom slashed exhaust tip. My picture above looks like I have them UNDER the seat, but I would actually run the NEXT to the seat.
Some of the problems are clearance....canister size (can't be too big...must be small actually).....heat, etc.
So....
Space: What is the major difference between the exhaust we run with the big cans and the exhaust on a Harley that are straight pipes? Internal baffles? If so, what if I were to go with a straight pipe-ish type set-up? If it could work, this would solve the size problem. Thoughts?
Heat: Ceramic coat and shield the set-up.
Clearance: I honestly do NOT think this will be an issue based on where I propose to run the pipes. The pipes would enter the rear cowl on either side on the OUTSIDE of the swingarm.
Imagine the pipes exitting at the same spot as the tear drop turn-signals:
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:shock: That is awesome! Now just add a single-sided swingarm and you have a winner! :grin::grin::grin:
I love that tail!
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Sounds like fun, huh?
Actually? Yes! :grin: That is a lot of good information. thanks a bunch.
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The Viffer swingarm mounts to the engine. You figure the answer out. :grin:
Smart ass!
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The ad I saw for the R1 solution said it used Cool Ceramic technology...or something like that. If that is the route we would need to take, then I would imagine the cost goes WAAAAAYYYY up! :grin:
As far as melting goes.....how are the bike companies getting around that with the new exhausts sitting under the tail right up against everything? (CBR1000 and VFR for example)
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I did see an example of a custom undertail on an XX. I'll see if I can dig it up for you.
It's somewhere on this page. Sorry my dialup is too slow to try and pic it out. J
Sweet...thanks beag! I would like to keep the dual exhaust and hide the cans in the side of the rear cowl like a squirrel with a nut in each cheek. :grin: (Kinda makes me picture Dave when I really think about it.)
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Holy shit on the price!!! :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:
:grin: :grin: :grin: Damn! So, can a stock Honda Arm from a VFR be adapted to work? I doubt it personally, but I don't really know one way or the other.
Chrome Plating
in The Garage
Posted
I practiced with my first bike part this weekend (pics to follow as soon as dad sends them.
I started with the grab bar that goes behind the rear seat. Probably not the best part to start with.
[1] It is non-metallic and requires a different process.
[2] It is a little large for the initial copper and nickel tanks that we set up to practice in.
[3] Non-metallic parts require that I spray a conductive metallic paint onto the surface of the product. I don't think I had the right set-up and the spray went on rather rough.
[4] When I copper'ed over the paint, I had areas that chipped...need to figure that out.
[5] The nickel went on nice.
[6] I need to practice with dip times to get better build up. When trying to smooth and polish the metal finish, I sand through the metal product...also causing chipping.
[7] One part of the product got good coverage a smooth finish and the chrome looked really good for the first time out.
[8] Finally: The chrome finish will be as good as the polishing job. If the polishing leaves pits and scratches, you will see pits and scratches in the chrome.
I am going to do either my foot pegs, rear sets, or exhaust hangers next....sticking to a purely metal surface this time so I can polish it first and then get a realistic idea of the plating process.
I will keep you informed
-Rick