XXera
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Posts posted by XXera
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Is this the thread you were looking for?
cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=53662&hl
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I might be interested in the fairing stay and headlight. How much do you want for it?
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I'll take the Draggin jeans and short gloves.
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Still for sale.
Is the price still negotiable?
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Do you still have all the necessary mounting hardware to go with them, like the bolts, spacers, washers, nuts, and bottom L braces? How about the keys also?
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Since I don't have my old cap, I can't say for sure, but I would bet you are correct. These pictures might help you out a little bit.
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The cap to the connector with the wires in it determines how your wires are grouped together. If you will look in the base of the cap at the spade connectors, you will notice that some are tied together, then there is a break in the electrical connection. That is how you decide how your wires are grouped together. I replaced mine and it had 18 wires in it also, but I guess I threw it away or I would take a better picture for you.
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Thanks for the information. I decided to go ahead and order an OEM stator from Service Honda. If the new one will last as long as the original, that will be good enough for me. Besides, I won't be hitting the rev limiter at the track anymore with Jay.
What's going on, Jay. How's the weather down there?
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I'm running a Rick's in my 2002, with no problems whatsoever. They put the proper connector on based on the year you buy, and it matches up to the OEM.
That having been said, the connector on mine eventually ended up being loose, got hot and eventually cooked one of the 3 leads. I decided that rather than fuck around with it, I would just cut and solder the wires after putting them together with a western union splice:
It took a while to solder, as those are some big wires and it took a bit to get them hot enough for the solder to flow.
I then covered the wires with heat shrink tubing to keep them from grounding out. So far, it's worked flawlessly.
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Has anybody bought a Ricks stator lately for a FI Blackbird, and if so, did you have to modify the insulator grommets, wiring leads, or connectors to get it installed? I have a 2000 Blackbird that appears to have a bad stator and was thinking about a Ricks versus an OEM Honda.
Thanks for any help.
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Which ones do you like better, Dale, the Roads or Avons??
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Demon, if the road is still wet, and those tires aren’t broken in, be very careful! It was raining here when I tried out my new 45/46’s and I had some major traction problems until they got scrubbed in. The regular wet asphalt wasn’t that bad, but when I crossed a large patched area, it was like riding on ice!! They’re very slick when they are new and wet. :shock:
Good luck.
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What I do is go by the outside temp , If its going to be 70 or higher I run max cause the temp on the ground will keep the tire's warm , on a cool day I run a few pound less, on a cold day under 50 I may run 35 front and 38 rear
On my trip in W.V. where we were in the mid 90's (way to hot for me but had a great time anyway) had the tires on max (42/42) during one of many water breaks felt the tire's, they were hot and spongie , never once broke loose
I have the Avons 45/46, best tire period
I was just wondering if anybody else is using this method to determine their tire pressures.
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I have repaired some fairly long cracks (12-15 inches) to small support eyelets with glue made by VersaChem. It's called Plastic Welding System and bonds to ABS plastic. It sets in 15 minutes or less, depending on the temperature. The cracks I've repaired have held well over a year now without coming loose. This stuff has fixed more things around the house than anything else I have ever tried.
You can get the glue at NAPA, O'Riley, or AutoZone for around 4 to 5 bucks.
You should try this stuff if you can. You won't believe how good it works.
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Don't want to hijack the thread, so I agree, use red cap Mobil 1.
Scot, I haven’t ridden near enough this year. It just seems like I’ve been too busy.
I plan to participate in a 1000 mile “Baby Butt” even next month to get that certificate. :roll: Now people are starting to talk about Laguna Seca and my mouth is starting to water. Hopefully things will calm down and I can start riding.
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What's going on Scot? I'm the guy that took Precious to Cody.
What's the matter? Has she been complaining about it??
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I've got one if you still want to try to make it to the Mega. Let me know something.
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Come on, give the a break. They just look like a few typo's to me........
especially if you don't proof read. :oops:
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Here we go again. This was copied from an Amsoil website. They seem to think RP has Moly in it:
Royal Purple InfoAs you may know, RP is big in racing circles. The chemistry they use is something we choose not to use. One of our big selling points is extended drain intervals. Some additive chemicals can cause adverse conditions when used for long periods.
Royal Purple uses a different chemistry than most. They are one of only a handful of marketers using Moly in their oil. Moly is a solid, specifically banned by Cummins, due to excessive valve train wear.
Moly (Molybdenum Disulfide) is a processed mineral that is similar in appearance to graphite. Moly has good lubricating properties when used either by itself (in dry power form or as an additive to oil or other lubricants). Particles of the Moly can come out of suspension and agglomerate. This can actually clog oil filters or oil lines and the rest normally settles in the bottom of the oil pan. This seems to be more likely when using extended drain intervals. The only test we ran on RP involved their 20W50 Racing oil versus our AMSOIL Series 2000 Synthetic 20W50 Racing Oil (TRO). We ran two 4 ball wear tests with different parameters, a spectrographic baseline, FTIR scan and volatility tests. The Royal Purple showed a significantly high volatility rate with a 12.51% boil off rate. This compares to TRO with a 4.47% volatility rating. Wear scars were also smaller with the TRO. For example the TRO left a .41mm scar and the RP oil left a .66mm scar. There was also a surprising difference in the viscosity index. The RP has a VI of 129 versus 155 for the TRO. The higher the VI, the better the viscosity stays in place at high temperatures.
This infomation was profided by AMSOIL Tech Department. They had an independent lab test Royal Purple against AMSOIL. The results are posted above. They have found Moly in Royal Purple. As stated above, this can have negitive effects on your engine.
AMSOIL has been dyno tested against Royal Purple, in a issue of Fast Fours & Rotaries magazine. Click here to see the results.
I welcome the opportunity to work with you personally as your servicing AMSOIL Dealer. If you have any questions or concerns please don't hesitate to contact me.
If you would like more information about AMSOIL, click on one of the following links below:
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Scot, if you are still having problems with your neutral light, before you do anything drastic, why don't you try squirting some cleaner in your ignition switch. That supplies a negative to a clutch diode that turns on the neutral light. If the switch has something it, it could be providing just enough of a ground to be turning that diode on and off.
It's a long shot, but easy.
Good luck.
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Here's a picture of my front after about 6,600 miles. It still has about 3mm of tread left in the center.
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Speaking of high speed, am I the only one with this fantasy...? To find a dry lake bed, where you know there's nothing to hit, get to top speed, and...close your eyes...?
Nope!! :naughty:
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Z rated tires are assumed to be rated for sustained speeds of 150 MPH.
I have Z rated tires also, but at the end of that designation there is another indicator in parenthesis that gives the load index and speed rating of the tire. Mine looks like this: 120/70ZR17 m/c (58W). Doesn't this indicate the max. speed is the W rating instead of the Z rating?
Garmin 2757LM - 7" large screen GPS
in The Sales Floor -- For Sale/Wanted
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If you still want to get rid of your Garmin, I'd give you $100.00 shipped for it.