Mr.XX
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Posts posted by Mr.XX
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I would like the seat
Thanks
Dakota
Would that be the Corbin seat or the Stock seat .... I PM'd you
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As Mike said I have one for sale
There were no Pics because there were no defects to point out and everyone here knows what a stock seat looks like
I will post a pic tonight if you are interested ... I can't do anything about being local to you though ...LOL
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I'll take the stock windscreens if they fit a '99.
I think all years screens fit universally , But I'll check it out ... If anyone knows please chime in
A quick check of the XX knowlegebase ( Joe ) tells me yes they fit ... Do you want them both?
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The Bikes or mine
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From a 97
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The Bike is GONE and I still have Stuff .... Help Me and Help yourselves at the same time
all prices are open to negotiation(within reason) and are of course Plus shipping
Payment is by paypal unless other arrangements are made
clip-ons from my 97 XX $50 [b]SOLD
Mirrors $60 sold
Tail section $50 Pending
Under tail ...light , signal ect ( sub frame is separate ) $75 sold
Stock exhaust $45
Givi screen ...NEXXT Stickers included $40 sold
Stock screens $20 ea sold
Rear subframe $50
Tail ..Missing tab ... $ best offer $
Cracked side panel ... $ best offer $
Dented Tank $50
Fork seals $10
Corbin Gunfighter / Lady with back rest ...$275 Pending
Stock seat ...you know what they look like .. $50
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sounds good .. PM me with paypal info to make the deal
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Update: I pulled the caliper off of my "parts" bike and did a thorough cleaning and inspection of it
I put it on the bike and di a bleed of the system ... The pad were worn pretty good but the new ones had'nt arrived so I put them back on
took it out and the system works flawlessly ... 1 finger on the brake lever to stop after that ... almost too sensitive
I dont think I havae ever purged the whole system and put new fluid in ... Could that have been part of the problem?
anyways Thanks to all of you for your Help and support ... Its nice to know you guys are around when I start turning wrenches on something that I have never tried before .... and it was real nice to have extra parts that I could work on before tearing into my rolling bike ( I guess there is a benefit to wrecking your bike though I dont suggest it
)
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Since there is no manufacturer's name cited , who knows. Do you want to trust your ass to a set of what are probably knock off pads? Get a set of EBC HH pads and call it a day.
I know ... Thats why I stopped here first . Sometimes I just need to check myself from doing something stupid ... the first thing I thought was "who makes these "
Any recomendations on where to get good price on EBC pads??
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After my brake mishap a few days ago I am working on the brake system
I figured the rears would be glazed at best after locking up and being smoking hot
I found these on Ebay but want opinions before I buy
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are there any parts needed to do this or just remove take it apart , clean and reassemble?
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so do I need to replace the mastercylinder, the one on the clipon? or the rear brake master.. the one by the rear pedal?
or can it be fixed .... I am handy at turning a wrench just not good with diagnosis
thanks for the info Stan
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Riding Home tonight on the expressway and the bike begins to slow , Luckily I was in the right lane and able to get over before she locked totally ... Rear brakes smoking and when I put it up on the center stand the wheel wouldnt turn and the rear pedal was frozen. tried to pry pads apart with a screwdriver , no go, I lifted the front wh eel and tried to turn it but it was dragging too. finally I opened the rear bleeder valve and was able to push the pads off the disk, lifted the front and the wheel turned freely
I was able to ride it home using only the front lever ... when I got home I tried the rear lever with it on the center and the rear locked again.
anyone have any idea why this happened ? and What I can do to fix it .
97 bird w/100k + miles, fluid in both reseviors...
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so nobody noticed the oil hole was wrong in the rod,,,
I was just gonna say " The oil hole is the wrong way" on the thing-a ma-bob
great write up Stan .... makes me wanna go home and tear down my spare XX motor
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make that 2
I am in the same situation and am looking for a RR for my 97 bird
anyone ?
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As a recieptient of one of Joes Ex-XX's I can vouch for the quality of his retread XX's
But yall already know that
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What is the difference between the Fi birds and the 97/98's????
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Thanks
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Do the R1 R/R's work on the 97/98 bikes or only on the EFI ones???
I just replaced my old one with one from my "parts" bike and want to put a new R/R on and will go the R1 route if it'll work
is it a direct swap or will I have to tinker with it ? ... I dont recall all the details
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#1 Fully charge your battery.
#2 Start bike
#3 Place a voltmeter across the terminals of the battery and measure voltage at idle, 3k, and 5k rpm.
If your 3k and 5k voltage is more than 13, you're good to go. Its possible your battery might be showing some age.
I believe the voltage was 12.5v at arounf 4k revs .... bike was how can I check the alternator/generator or regulator
Charge the battery on a low amp charger first, and let it sit for a few hours disconnected from the bike. It should read around 12.5 volts. Less, bad battery. Connect it to the bike and read again. Less than 12 volts, probable bad battery, possible short in the bike.Here is the charging link from the important threads. Charging Link
thanks for the link ... I'll print this out and check it tonite
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Ok, the fates are against me tryin to make it to NEXXT .... first I gotta put brake pads on the front and now today I go to start her this morning and "womp,wompwomp" no go .... battery reads 11 volts ..... I whip out my "trusty" backup battery , DEAD as a doornail
so I needs some help from those who know ....what are the steps to check the charging sys on the bird and how hard is it to replace said parts
I still have my wrecked bike for parts and hopefully that'll work
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You never have enough time to do it right.
but always have enough time to do it twice!!
Glad you figured it out
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Carbs
in The Garage
They are a lilttle hard to get off. Rock them. There was one guy a while back that never did get them off. He ended up working on the carbs on the bike. Not me.
That was me. Tried to remove the carbs from the bike to rejet it but never could get them off. Rocked them for hours on end to no avail. Even tied a rope to them and then to a pulley on the ceiling.... the bike started to pull off the ground and yet the carbs still stayed on. Ended up saying fuck it and was able to do it very carefully without removing them.
God forbid I ever need to remove them, it's going to the dealer - because there is no way in hell I can get them off....
Wow .... I havent gone that far but I bet I would have the same results
I am going to stop by the parts place and get a feeler gauge and try and slip a blade up in there to break it loose .... I am hoping that if I can get one or two loose the others will rock off easier
:icon_wall:
the good news is I am pulling these off of my old/wrecked bike to exchange on the one I am riding since they are already jetted ... I hope the other set comes off eaiser than these.
I wanna do the swap before NEXXT
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Carbs
in The Garage
tapping tool ?????
Clearance sale
in The Sales Floor -- For Sale/Wanted
Posted
Sent you a PM