Skull

Are you sure that's not an Aprilia?

Or you can use a 13/16" spark plug socket backwards.

See this: http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=61900 Yeah. He wrote that. After he wrote the above. It's almost like he learned they were out of business by trying to order something from them.

I think it's a 14mm. You can cheat by buying a bolt whose head is 14mm and double-nutting it (huh huh). I found a 17mm and a 12mm hex key at Sears, but nothing in between. A tool truck might have something (Matco/Snap-On/Cornwell/Whatever). I'm not sure where to buy Honda tools. Service Honda won't sell them, last I checked. The service manual calls it a "swingarm pivot removal tool" or something like that and part number for it is 07909-4690003. I'm inclined to go buy a cheap socket and take a dremel to it, myself. Probably less trouble when it's all said and done.

What?

Bingo!

Are these raw aluminum or have they been treated in some way (clear coat, anodized, etc.)?

I like Sonic Cherry Limeade.

Structurally, it'll be just fine. Aesthetically, all bets are off. The Canyon Dancer is just for minimizing the side-to-side motion. The real heavy work should be done elsewhere. I, myself, use an LA Chock as the primary restraint. Two straps from the forks at the top of the fender to the front-sides, two straps from the exhaust hangers to the rear-sides, and one strap anchoring the rear wheel so it doesn't bounce -- all of that just keeps it from bouncing out of the chock. But, then again, I've been accused of overdoing it.

Where do you find this?

If you insist in being an asshole you may......... Speaking for myself: I am getting fed-up with your "smart" remarks. Everytime somebody refers to me you have to let people know we've had a problem. Grow up, and stop behaving like a little boy. It's so awkward when mommy and daddy are fighting!

I guess you found the reason that nobody is doing this already.

The vacuum bagging would have made things shrink down to fit better. Probably. Either way, though, red carbon fiber is probably destined to look too much like an ace bandage.

Well, the whole key to trouble shooting is to eliminate things one-by-one. Just reading the manual won't do it, despite what NASA thinks. Did you verify that the fuel pump was actually bad before replacing it? Did you verify that the replacement pump was actually good before installing it? You and your meter and a set of jumper wires back to the battery have some work ahead of you.

I was going to say something like "I recommend using JB Weld", but I realized that would be irresponsible.

The '99 is fuel-injected.

He's not very good at shopping for insurance.

The single-sided swingarm is sexy.

So you like him then, huh? Only if he has loose morals.

A less cunty answer is that the ZX14 and C14 both have essentially a second set of throttle plates that are computer-controlled so that they only open above ~5000 rpm. The idea is that it keeps the monster engine manageable until you're ready to really open it up. They did this because half the squids that bought one because it was the biggest and baddest available would kill themselves otherwise with the low-end torque.

Haha. He has loose nuts.

You probably either damaged them on install or didn't torque them properly and damaged them on the speedbump. Once damaged, though, anything else you do is pointless. Get a new set and try again, following the directions this time.

I hope you buy one so we can all find out. Delkevic stuff generally seems to be well-regarded.

I keep thinking this thread title sounds like something that would get you in trouble with the National Collegiate Pond Association and have all your juniors banned from playing next school year.

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