Skull

It took my pop and me about 4 hours to do a thorough bleed, front and back. We used a combination of the Mighty-Vac and good old-fashioned pump-and-bleed. I still anticipate another bleed session at some point in the near future, just to make sure everything is tip-top.

I'm kinda hoping I won't have to remap mine, but I'm not holding my breath. I'll have a full 4-1-2 system. I'll probably have to buy a PCIII and schedule some dyno time.

Mine is a California model '02. Evap canister, O2 sensor, etc. If you don't have that stuff, it probably wasn't a California bike.

I can only offer anecdotal evidence, but when I installed my lowering link -- effectively raising the front end like Nik's suspension modifications did -- I had a great deal of aerodynamic instability. Leveling the bike by slipping the forks proved to solve these issues.

I wouldn't hold my breath on another Spiegler group buy. The owner of the company was in my dad's shop this week, and saw my 'bird on the lift table. He said he remembered the group buy, and when he learned how much trouble it turned out to be, and how pissed off it made his other distributors, he decided he wasn't doing any more of them.

I have a 1" lowering link, and I've slipped the fork tubes just ever so slightly less than 1". As previously stated, hitting the forks on the bottom of the triple-tree is the biggest concern. Since your front end was raised and you have stiffer springs, you can probably drop more than that.

I'm de-Californicating my '02. With a stainless-steel 4-into-1 header, an O2 sensor simulator, 49-state stock cans, and the PAIR blockoff plates, I'm very close to having it all set up. The problem, though, is that pesky evaporation canister. There's a set of vacuum lines that run from the throttle bodies specifically*** to the canister, and a small line from the canister to the tank. Since the EFI machines have the fuel pump attached to the tank, I doubt very much that this is a petcock-activation line like the carbed machines have, but I don't know that for sure. Anybody know for sure? :icon_think: ***There's a whole different set that hook into the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail.

I would, but it was long enough ago that I bought it that I can't. Or at least shouldn't. David (at StreetFightersByDesign) is a great guy, but it's not his problem after this long.

Me too, except when it arrived, it doesn't fit right. Dammit. Not sure what to do about it.

It seems to be getting to that level, but not there. Quite. I am investigating some bump-stops that would prevent that in case I do cross the line.

I put a 1" lowering link on the back and slipped the fork tubes about 1". I'm getting ready to slip them another 1/4" or so, fwiw.

Yes, pics! I'm thinking about doing this.

Don't be a wussy! Kuryakyn has an integrated throttle rocker/cam that works with their grips. Very nice and polished. I have them on my Valkyrie, and probably will have them on my Blackbird eventually.

I have the same problem. I dropped the rear 1" with a lowering link and slipped the forks in the tubes about 1.25" - 1.5". Oh, and for the record, I wouldn't recommend you do this. I wouldn't recommend anyone do this. If you know what I mean.

Where did you find 1.1 springs? The Race Tech website only shows as high as 1.0, and, uh, ahem, I would be best-suited to the 1.1s.

I have the same problem with a set of Avons. The steering head bearings will be checked for tightness ASAP. I don't wheelie much, and rarely on purpose, but that doesn't mean the former owner didn't. :?

Seriously, man, test them out first to see if you really need to run them at full power. It's entirely likely that they achieve full brightness significantly lower than max current.

This is exactly right. One thing to keep in mind, though, is that the 30mA values listed in the datasheet posted are MAX values. You probably don't want to run them quite at the ragged edge like that. Backing off ~10%-20% in the current value most likely won't be significantly less bright, and might increase the life of the LEDs quite a bit.

Gotta be careful with that. Many LEDs only make a ~1 V drop across them naturally, so unless they have a built-in step-down resistance, run at least one 1kΩ resistor in series with them.

Like everybody else said, post up. We've got a lot of folks around here that can help on a great variety of topics.

Dal has been a great supporter of the Chevy/GM hotrod/tuner/whatever crowd for a long time. He's a class act.

Magnacharger would be the place to start if nobody knows of an existing kit. They were the ones that helped develop the kit for the Valkyrie. I'd rather have a turbo on the XX than a supercharger, though.

I went 1 tooth down in the front and I can tell the pull is much stronger. My speedometer, though, is way out of whack -- as much as 15 mph high up toward the magic 100 mark.

I hope you were kidding.

All synthetic oils are basically the same -- Mobil 1 owns the patent on it, so everybody is bound by the same licensing agreements. I'm running 10w-30. I think I used Valvoline this time.