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Skull

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Posts posted by Skull

  1. dude i just went through same shit thursday when bike was stock it ran 135 on dyno jet dyno well it just had vance and hines slip ons now thursday i go and get a run on the ec997a eddy current dyno the bike ran 108hp after rejetting and syncing carbs ran 123hp bullshit!! this is fastest bike has ever been have a full muzzy ex system and tons of work the guy told me he does quick blips only

    he didnt have colored ink either my co was good though and bike is insane fast cant keep front wheel down and im 6 foot 6 ...320lbs he told me if i run on dyno jet ill get between 140-and 160 ???????

    wtf..can someone explain my powerband is right from 2k to red line much more torqe low mid and top tuned bike great reall dont like that eddy current dyno its full of shit

    Does your mom know you're using her computer? This website is no place for a 7-year-old.

  2. Hi Gang,

    I bought my '00 XX last year with 1700 miles on it and the factory rubber was fine. Well Im up to 8700 miles and my rear has a pretty yellow stripe down the center. The yellow doesn't match the Titanium so I decided to get a new tire. A new Avon 56 is on its way to me now. YIPPIE!

    Are new tires slippery? Will I have to take sandpaper to it before I crank it over on its side at 90 mph?

    Riiiiiiiiight. C'mon. Fess up. You've never even used the side-stand, have you?

  3. Even repeated runs on the same day can and usually are different. Too many variables.

    Which is why I said that, almost a year apart, = almost completely meaningless. Still, it's a good number. Good enough for bragging rights, anyway.

  4. Nice gain I think.

    Yep. Almost completely meaningless, though.

    Why is it meaningless?

    Because unless the dyno runs were done on the same day by the same guy under the same weather conditions, the margin of error on the measurements is large enough that you don't really know how much it increased or didn't.

  5. Bottom line may be: Dyno charts camparing different runs on differnt dynos with different bikes may have very little value as compared to multiple dyno runs on the same dyno comparing engine modifications to the same bike.

    Not "may be". Is. This cannot be stated enough. Dyno measurements are really only meaningful if it's the same dyno with the same calibration and the same weather conditions (preferably on the same day). You can only mathematically correct for so much. On their own, the numbers are great for bench-racing, but not much else -- you really are comparing apples and oranges.

  6. An air ratchet will do the work taking lug nuts on and off just fine. You'll have to break them loose by hand, though, then use the air ratchet to spin them the rest of the way off. It's not really a big deal, though, because you need to re-torque them by hand anyway.

    No, you don't... I use one of those calibrated 6" extensions from Snap-On that you put on an impact and they only go up to a certain # rating (the one I have is 100ft lbs) then stop, and the pitch changes...

    Torque sticks do indeed work very well, but I usually save that topic for "Air Tools For Juice Monkeys 102".

  7. First....you won't get the rated torque from a wrench. Secondly, the reason you see 250 foot pound wrenches and then 500 foot pound wrenches is that the *lesser* ones (and we're talking 1/2 inch drives here) have one anvil, and the higher rated ones are double anvil. That's why they cost more. Trust me....you want a damn good wrench. There's nothing that will piss you off like having all this fancy-ass shit and it still won't take some damn rusted bolt off.

    hmmm.. Well first, I think I said air ratchet, but I think I meant Impact Wrench. Sounds like you are talking about Impact Wrenches which is what I actually meant...

    So here's my dilemna.. My parents wanted to know something to get me for Christmas. So I said an air ratchet (but meant impact wrench) but anyway, I know they were looking at some in the $80 to $90 territory.

    Is that not even worth getting? Will those even do the job of taking on and off lug nuts?

    I know they can't afford more expensive ones. Maybe I should just tell them to get me something else.

    An air ratchet will do the work taking lug nuts on and off just fine. You'll have to break them loose by hand, though, then use the air ratchet to spin them the rest of the way off. It's not really a big deal, though, because you need to re-torque them by hand anyway.

  8. Take a 2-liter sodapop bottle. Screw the fitting into a hole in the bottom. Tie a piece of string around the neck to hang it. Fill with a funnel.

    So if you screw the tee barb fitting into the bottom of the soda bottle, what is going to seal it?? A soda bottle isn't very thick, and I would think it would deform or strip out easily if you tried to thread anything into it. Just curious how to go about this, because it would definitely be a good setup!

    JB Weld it if you have to, but I didn't figure it'd need to last all that long. I suppose you could put the fitting in the cap of the bottle and turn it upside down like an IV, instead.

  9. I just zip tied it on mine.

    This is a great solution, and it also works very well for the two holes that hold the fairings together at the front. Right now, I have bolts in there, but the zip tie is so much more convenient.

  10. Run one line into the house.

    Use a 1GHz bandwidth (not 900MHz) splitter and hang the modem off one port and a signal amplifier/multi-splitter off the other one for the TVs.

    Digital cable boxes might require a two-way amplifier, but I can't confirm that since I don't have (or want) any.

  11. Acctually, I have a few friends that have the xb9/12r models and the pegs are straight out. The xb9/12s models have the pegs that go down then out, giving you an extra 3/4 inch in lowering the peg.

    Doh! It's been so long since I bought mine I'd forgotten.

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