Iceman_40
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Posts posted by Iceman_40
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The advantage that I see promoted on them is
about 8-10 times more cycles (start-up) on a lithium verses AGM
No battery tender needed unless storing over a month with clock/alarm etc drawing voltage.
With battery disconnected it holds a full charge for over a year
way more Cold Cranking Amps at 385 CCA
green and recyclable - no acid or lead - waterproof
Kind of like LED verses Incondescant bulbs
I just ordered one and will report my findings.
Was almost the same price as the Yuasa 14S AGM battery ($8 more )
What did you get? And let us know I need a new battery and was thinking Li this time. Have had bad luck with the last two yuasa's I bought
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Think the best way would be foam on the floor, piece of plywood covering it to distribute the weight. Put the bikes on the plywood then build walls/roof with the foam around it, seal corners with tape/glue. Add small heater with temp control.
Kinda like building a cheap foam cooler around the bikes. Just a idea off the top of my head. Smaller the inside area and thicker the foam should be cheaper to heat right. And would be the smallest amount of foam needed since your only putting it around what you want to keep warm.
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CCT? do you hear a noise too...?
Kink in chain?
Check the basics first
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Everyone pretty much gave you all the reasons.
I've had 16T 17T and 18T on the front. Between 17T and 18T I find very little difference in acceleration(slight loss), but does drop the RPM a bit on the highway for better fuel economy. Only thing I don't like about the 18T is in our stupid school zones(30km/h) that are pretty much everywhere the RPM are a bit low for me liking. One thing everyone seemed to miss is for most people it fixes the speedo error but it's not a big deal.
I have to order a new chain sprocket set soon and I'll be getting a 16T Front and a 18T and swap them when I'm going on highway trips.
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Your headlight bulbs shouldn't be 55/60W or 55\100W. H7 Bulbs don't have a low/high beam one bulb is a low beam the second is a high beam. I've got a 100W high beam and never had a issue with not enough power.
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Take it to a tire shop and have them put a plug in from the inside, it can't come out that way. Still wouldn't trust it though.
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Ive been following this thread and tho I am interested in a turbo my XX is soo freaking fast as it is now I dont know that I want it considerably faster. I am interested but what kind of increase are we talking. I am running a delkevic stock header replacement 4-1-2 and two brothers slip ons which I believe are 60MM. My bike is a carbed bird.
Can you ever have too much power?
From the info listed in the thread, you will get 190-260+HP depending on the size of the turbo and how much boost you are running and what else you want to do to the bike.
A stock XX with basic mods (Slip ons, PC, etc) will make somewhere between 125-140HP so even on the lowest kit you'd get about 25% more power, or about the same as the new ZX14.
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So how bad ARE the chinese body kits? Are they not up to snuff due to misalignments of holes, inferior plastic strength, crappy paint??
Never used a set on a XX, but a friend got a kit for his busa. It has some minor alignment issues, I think we had to make 2 holes slightly larger. The plastic is a bit thinner and the heat shielding isn't nearly as good. Adding more heat shielding close to the engine/pipes is a good idea. Paint quality isn't quite as good as factory but was much better than we expected.
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Best of luck finding the issue. Don't forget to check any connectors on the wires.
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Seems like you replaced most of the wiring already. On such a simple electrical system, I'd unhook everything not needed for the engine to run to start troubleshooting. Just remember that just because there is continuity doesn't mean that the wire can handle the current flow needed.
Maybe easier to run all new wires for the car then you'd be sure it would be all good.
Is everything else working electrically? Horn, lights, cranks over, etc?
If I was a betting man I'd bet on the issue being a bad ground. Clean and check all the grounds you can find as I can't imagine there are to many.
Never worked on a car close to that old, but should be the same electrically.
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I assume you have a aftermarket set of slip on's at least(or full system), as that doesn't look like a factory piece. At least it wasn't on my 03.
If so post the brand name model up maybe someone has something that will work for you.
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Never heard of anyone going from Digital to Analog before. I'd much prefer the digital myself.
Is there a issue with your speedo that is only goes up to 180km/h or is it restricted somehow because of import into your country?
A quick glance at the analog speedo will tell you generally how fast you are going, but if you are moving fast taking the time to read the numbers that are so close together takes much more time than glancing at the digital numbers.
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Sounds like you'd require a new turbo to go from the entry kit to the fast road. I'm guessing that will be a substantial cost.
I'm really interested in turboing the xx. The shitty thing is I'd have to travel 2000Km to get the bike dyno tuned.
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I'd really love to put a turbo on the XX, but I'm not sure my license can handle it.
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Some of the older XX's have had ground issues. Couldn't hurt to check as it will cause all kinds of weird issues.
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Found this chart when looking for a replacement for my GF's GSXR-750
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I could use a new swing arm, my 2 bros can turned and did some damage to mine. Are the swing arms the same for all years?
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I really like the idea but I don't think they would be any higher than the VFR bars. If you pick up a set let me know I'd really like to see what they look like on the bike.
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My Jeeps exhaust looks pretty much the same as the rear of your pipes. Looked nice and shiny until getting it hot a few times and off roading in snow/water. I have the same brown all over the exhaust.
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Any chance you were riding in rain?
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Apparently it slows turning slightly. Wouldn't worry about it for commuting unless you are doing serious twisties on the trip to work.
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Not sure how this has anything to do with selling or buying.
I caught a nail in my tire a few years back. Was doing about 140km/h just before and slowed to 80 and the bike seemed heavy in the turns but I assumed it was the rougher road surface and speed difference. Stopped about 20km's after I assume the when I picked up the nail. After being stopped a few mins it was obviously low. Was waiting for a friend 15mins later it was sitting on the rim.
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Went looking for some more info but some of the links seem to be dead. Would be nice to get all the info together in one thread, and sticky it.
BartonMD any chance you have any pics or instructions you made up we could use?
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Sale ends at midnite CDST on May 15, 2011.I'm in for one.
You might be outta luck, but hopefully he will extend it for you.
Installing a pc3
in The Garage
Posted
The advantage is you get to tune the bike. If the guy with the dyno knows what he is doing you can have him tune it for better fuel economy at low TPS range and more power when out of that range.
For example I picked up about 5HP peek, and a bit more throw the range. Bike is smoother and also picked up 15+MPG on the highway with the tuning as long as I drive reasonable.