Iceman_40
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Posts posted by Iceman_40
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Could be the starter switch, but pretty sure there is a bank angle sensor that turns off the fuel pump if the bike is layed down. Could be it too.
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Running the fan for a long time at idle does drop the battery that's for sure. Once or twice mine almost didn't start after sitting it traffic for a long time.
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You can rotate side to side, but you need to dismount and remount the tires.
With the winter tires, I also bought new wheels so the tires would not have to be dismounted.
I have did things in the past when I was in a pinch that everyone said wouldn't work and it did. I thought that using a directional tire the wrong way, I might suffer some traction loss but I wasn't sure.
I'm sure that you will loose at least some traction if you mount them backwards. Depending on the design it maybe a lot.
Why not just drop them at the shop when you pull them off for the summer and have them switched. I know it's not ideal but winter tires backwards maybe worse than all seasons.
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I know how to use the software but my design skills are weak...
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I'm definitely no expert at it but I could do a little better than you have.
The issue is that background pic is rough, will be hard to ever make it look good without someone with more skill than I. Does that picture have some meaning, as I'm sure I could find a much better quality one for the background.
For example... http://imgur.com/gallery/XJgOgso
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You seem to be on the right track. Your location for the cable modem is fine electronic equipment don't mind the cold, much better than heat for them. You could put a router on each floor but a wireless access point would do. You should be fine with more than one router with different wireless networks. But depending on your location other things may cause issues with the wireless each location is different hell I've seen a cordless phone kill all the wireless within 50 feet of it.
While wireless in convent I hate it, its shared so anything can use those freq and cause you issues. Wire everything and be done with it.
Make sure you get them to put proper wall jacks on the wall, I've seen dumb contractors try and cheap out and leave the wire hanging out of the wall. You should also keep in mind that none of the cat 5 wire should be closer than 1 foot from 120V wiring.
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I don't know what year it is but I have a stock seat too. Was going to have it customized but bought a different one. You can have it for shipping as well.
PM me if you want it
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O rings don't need lube. They keep lube in. They need to be clean so dirt does not grind them away.
I clean my chains with wd40 and then use a dry lube. I sold my F4i with 28k miles on it. The chain almost never needed adjusting and it had tons of life left.
I think cleaning the chain has much more to do with long life then what specific type of oil you use.
Which brings me to my next point...if you have to clean the chain every day on a long trip anyway, why does anyone need an oiler? I really don't understand the need unless you just skip cleaning.
I cleaned my chain once and it lasted over 30,000km so it wasn't the cleaning that did it. The chain wasn't wore out when I changed it, but I was going on a trip and wanted to change the sprockets so I swapped the chain too.
If you keep the o rings/or x rings in my case lubed then they won't heat up and let the oil/grease inside out.
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I would run the thickest bearing grease I could find. The chain and sprocket interface is a high load area. Not the place for light oil.
How could that be the case when there are so many happy oiler customers out there using light weight gear oil with rediculously long lasting chains.
This is my understanding...
If you were running a non o ring chain then the weight of the oil might make a difference. If it is a o ring chain the idea is to keep the o rings in good shape by keeping them cleaned and lubed. I like the gear oil because it sticks better, motor oil tends to "wash" off pretty quick with rain.
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And also in their FAQ:
2. Do I need to use thinner oil in winter, like in a gravity feed system
No.
The PRO-OILER's delivery is not affected by temperature.
It's been road-tested down to -10C and performed well without even needing changed settings.
Zero-Stop over thinking it and trying to compensate for something that isn't happening. If you're looking for great oil that's relatively cheap and easy to find I recommend Pennzoil Platinum, it has some of the best qualities of any oil available.I'm in the Arctic and gear oil is still pumped fine if I'm not mistaken it's 75W90. And I've been stuck riding close to freezing for much longer than I would have liked. I like the gear oil since it tends to stick a bit better and not just fly off.
If your having issues with oil flow, I'd expect the issue to be in the rubber connectors on the hose. Any air leaks can be a issue a loose connection at the pump will drain all the oil from the line. And it's happened to me on the connection to the nozzle a few times but only once at the pump that was likely my fault. I'd have to do a few minor mods to keep the hose tight at the nozzle as it's worked it way loose a few times.
A good cleaning with rubbing alcohol then a small piece of heat shrink that has hot glue in it over the hose/connector has held it in place very well.
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I've been using gear oil in mine since I got it. No issues and the chain definitely lasts MUCH longer, changed the chain last year with 30K on it and it was still decent. But swapped it anyway since the swing arm was off and I was changing gearing.
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No they should last longer than that.
You checked most of what I would have. But I did have one POS Ford that water had made it's way into the headlight. Would get hot turn to vapor then would condense on the bulb. Went throw a few bulbs before I figured out what it was. Cleaned and dryed inside of the light and found a small crack, glued it and it was fine after that.
Washboard and rough roads can cut down how long they last if that's commonly driven on.
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Chrome Book runs chrome OS, should be around for a few years. At that price you likely won't be using it in 2 years the OS will get bigger as they add more stuff and the hardware won't be as good as the new stuff the updates are made to run on. It's probably closer to a tablet than a laptop.
Great battery life, can do most of what the average user does. As far as I remember the apps all work without internet just designed to have your files in the "cloud"
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Well if you can order the LCD from somewhere it could be replaced. But you may have damaged some of the traces on your board if there is a burnt spot. So replacing it all is a good idea.
If you choose to deal with rockmeupto125 he's great to deal with he's helped me out more than once...
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Good idea to check your grounds too.
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Taken care of... Thanks
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Broke the bracket that holds the mirror. It's the part that allows the mirror to fold.
STAY, L. (88121-MAT-000)For a 2003 but not sure if it matters. Need it ASAP.
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I'm assuming a 6 point 1 1/8th socket is the base?
I don't think I'll get it in time if someone ships it. My bike needs the swing arm swapped before it gets shipped across the country only until next week to get it done.
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I'm assuming that the tool was made from a socket. What size socket was used to make it?
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http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=54462&hl=
Hopefully this will help you out
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Sure I'll gladly take a lend of one if one of you don't mind. Can't imagine I'll ever have to replace my swing arm twice lol
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Found a few online listing different sizes.
Anyone know what the right size is?
Is that one it?
Inside diameter is 34mm
Outer diameter is 40mm
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Is the CCT the same type as the XX's?
If so take the bolt out of the top, use a flat head screw driver to retract the adjuster and pull the screw driver out letting it "snap" back out. This has stopped the noise for a few mins both times my CCT needed changing on the XX.
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Although, 15+MPG is an awful lot to attribute to just a good PC tune.
Had the tune done mid trip, went from 30-35 MPG to 45-53MPG fuel savings paid for the tune in my case. But the bike was running very rich at the start.
I believe there is a tune bank in the garage with some maps including mine you could try.
oil analysis
in The Garage
Posted
Quaker state use to be really bad for sludge not sure if it still is. They added paraffin to the oil, friend showed me the valve covers on a 350 that had run it for about 100,000 km. Was so much sludge in the valve covers it was basically a wax mold of the valves. Pretty cool to see but can't be good for the engine.