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John01XX

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Posts posted by John01XX

  1. Different spec's for different types of batteries

    Lithium Polymer (Lipo) I run in my RC Slash truck

    Lithium Iron Phosphate, I currently run in my BlackBird

    I use a Thunder AC6 balanced charger for my LiPo batteries

    I use a Optimate model TM291 for my Lithium Iron Phosphate battery

    My understanding is that most all of the Lithium battery variations require a balanced charging system to keep them healthy verses straight charging for lead acid batteries. My Lipo charger has an option for different Lithium types so should work on the Lithium iron as well.

    My RC charger cost me $65.00 and my Bird charger cost me $100.00

    • Upvote 1
  2. John, for what it's worth, I'm running 55W digital brand H3's in a set of projectors in my Civic....5000K and I love the light output. I'm not a fan of the really blue looking stuff.......just lots and lots of light output. My 55W/5000K lights produce a lot of usable light and hardly any bluish tint.

    thanks Vern

  3. Thanks Hank,

    Will go with the 55's then

    Was concerned about to much heat and possibly melting the housing

    Also the DDM. Site recommends the 6000K in the 55W and 5000K in the 35W for the brightest white light.

    They say the higher wattage tends to wash out the slight blue tint in the 55's to give you the brightest usable white light. The 35's give off the brightest usable white light in the 5000K.

    I think I will go with the 55W in the 6000K myself

  4. Time for a new pair to replace the 10 year old set of 35W McCulloch's that have served me well.

    Must decide if I want the 55W verses the 35W? Any recommendations appreciated.

    Would love to have the higher brightness as long as it is not a problem with heat.

    Will be ordering the new digital slim ballast set-up from DDM

    What say the masses?

  5. If any carb'd bike sits for more than a week or two without being started up, you are going to get a buildup of deposits in the jets, clogging them up.

    After a ride just turn the fuel off and run the engine dry of fuel then store.

    A carb clean generally runs $150.00 here in So Florida!

  6. If you only knew! Every morning when I get up for work (3:30AM), I'm about 93 y.o. Then, after a cup of coffee and a shower I'm about 75. One more cup of coffee on the way to work at 6:00AM and I'm back to being 59.90 y.o. I go through this every morning.

    and still fast as hell on the track! and you have curves in Tennessee named after you! and still a good look'n wippersnapper!!!!

  7. At the dealership I work at, replacement of the valve stem is automatic on all tire changes with mag

    wheels and replacement tubes and rim savers on all tire changes with spoked wheels.

    Rubber rots!

  8. Are the pistons actually fully depressed?

    I have seen tech's use an old worn out pad on top of the new inner pad and then use a large screwdriver to pry on the old pad to force the new pad further back. That way no damage to the new pad surface with pry marks. Then remove the old pad and insert the new outside pad. If that makes any sense! My guess is that the inner pad is not fully depressed.

  9. Guessing he's referring to common lead acid batteries. You're supposed to fill them, wait for the acid to penetrate the cells (30 min. or more ), then slowly charge before use. If you don't wait and/or don't charge them before using it'll shorten it's life, but it has nothing to do with memory effect. The discharge to start and the fast charge from the alternator damages the plates some.

    This is what I was trying to say as explained to me by a Yuasa battery rep. for lead acid batteries

    He said that when a battery is filled with acid the first time that it generates approximately a 60% charge level. If you put it on a charger it will rise up to the 100% capacity level for that particular battery. If you install said battery in the bike at the 60% charge level and put it under load, the battery then sets its 100% capacity at the 60% charge level. The battery will then always recharge only up to that 60% level for the life of the battery. The key being that what ever charge level the battery is at when it is put under load for the first time determines the charge level for the life of the battery.

    I do not know if this is scientific fact or just sales BS but it came from someone knowledgeable within the Battery industry.

  10. I'm in general agreement that your battery is the most likely culprit. Just to be sure, here's a cautionary note in regard to your new battery - be certain you fully bench charge it (per the charging specs on the label of the new battery) before installation. That's really important because it gives you a new base line from which you can re-run any testing protocols (alt stator, reg/rec, harness, grounds, etc.) and get reliable results. Even a new battery with less than a full charge can impact test results and yield erroneous data.

    +1

    Working in a service department, I see most everyone that buys a new battery just installs the new battery without fully charging it first. Just buy it and drop it in and away they go. The memory is now set for the battery at a much lower level than it is capable of and will remain there for the life of the battery which will be considerable shorter. It is always best to trickle charge a brand new battery overnight before applying a load to it for the first time.

    I am currently trying my luck with the new lithium iron phosphate battery from BatteryStuff.com (Scorpion brand). After 4 months use it has been flawless and spins the engine over about twice as fast as my previous Yuasa. Much higher cranking amps and no battery tender needed. Only documented downside they have is the fact that they do not work well in cold environments. They say to turn the key and headlight on for a few seconds first to warm the battery up before hitting the starter button! Not a problem for me here in So Florida as we never experience a cold environment! The big difference is in weight or the lack there of. My new lithium weighs less than 2 lbs!!!

  11. This is from Michelin

    Pilot Power/Pilot Road Technical Information

    Anti Static strip

    When a motorcycle is in use there is a build up of static within the machine. It is necessary to ensure that this is dispersed during usage.

    In order to facilitate this there is a carbon black strip built into the tyre during manufacture. This strip is moulded into the tyre before curing using carbon, as this is a good conductor of static electricity. This strip is practically invisible on a new tyre, but can appear as the tyre wears, especially if the usage of the motorcycle is not high. There is no detrimental effect on the performance of the tyre either before, during or after this strip has become apparent. The positioning of this groove is slightly ‘off centre’ and can be seen in the diagram below.

    Great read and very interesting info, thanks for that!

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