rhubarbray
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Posts posted by rhubarbray
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I have a Wilbers shock with hydraulic preload on my V65 Sabre. With the shock off, the spring compressed slighly( enough to unload the preload unit) I unwound the lock ring and then the preload unit unthreads off the body. Not sure if you`re going to go more or less preload but it`ll only be 1/2 turn anyway if you want it to face the other way.
This help?
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I think what they`re asking you to do is check the diodes within the r/r. If you put your multimeter on diode check, put your leads between any input wire and the output wire you should have current flow in one direction but not the other. Reverse the leads on the same two wires and the indication should be different from the last reading. If they`re the same, them one (or more) of the diodes has broken down internally. Change to a different input lead and repeat the test. Repeat for all three input leads. Current should flow from the yellow input leads into the r/r and then out to the red wire but not the other way.
Sometimes, what I do is if checking for a broken diode is put the leads on the battery while the meter is set on AC, not DC. If one of the diodes is not working, it should show up as very erratic ac rather than clean dc. This is because the non working diode isn`t there to smooth the output sine wave. Oops,....while the bike is RUNNING and at a higher rpm to ensure charging.
Does this help?
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Could you post pics of the crank trigger? Just like to see where it`s at.
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I`m just throwing in my observations here.
The only thing that determines when an engine is on compression or exhaust,....is the cams. If you take the cams out and turn the engine 360 degrees,........wouldn`t you end up exactly in the same place?? If #1 is at TDC, then 360 degrees later #1 is again at TDC.
Is it possible to mix up the intake and exhaust cams?? I don`t know.
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I`m so glad to see I`m not the only one with this problem! I have a 2000 and it`s had the knock/vibration/thud/noise since new. Hasn`t gotten any worse or any better and I`ve got almost 40k km on it. The noise goes away when you pull in the clutch but you can still feel the engine is slightly out of balance. Almost sounds like badly synched carbs. Could it be related to the cold start valves? One hanging up?
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Another alternative you can do is switch to DOT 5. Won`t damage pain and won`t absorb water. It does however have microscopic air bubbles which may give it a slightly spongy feel at the lever. What we are required to do at work for fluids that do this is to put the fluid in a sealed container and draw a high vaccuum on the container for 24 hours. the bubbles expand, rise to the surface, and dissipate.
BUT, DOT 5 is not compatible with DOT 3,4,or 5.1. A disassemble and clean is required but you don`t have to change the seals . A friend of mine runs DOT 5 in his V-Max and hasn`t had sticky pistons or any problems for about three years now and the fluid is still clear.
DOT 5 brake fluid is silicone based brake fluid which may cause the problems listed in the above mentioned posts. :icon_nono:
Agreed, silicone won`t absorb water, but would regular maintenance and flushing alleviate those concerns? Assuming the reservoir cover seal is in good shape, how would the water droplets get in? Only way is by the seal or by the piston seals.
I`ve got DOT 5 in my SRX 600 that I`m going to give a try to and see what it`s like. My friend with the V-Max that I was telling you about found that the slight sponginess he felt at the brake lever was a little strange at first but came to like it as it cave him a bit more modulation that a ridgid lever.
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Another alternative you can do is switch to DOT 5. Won`t damage pain and won`t absorb water. It does however have microscopic air bubbles which may give it a slightly spongy feel at the lever. What we are required to do at work for fluids that do this is to put the fluid in a sealed container and draw a high vaccuum on the container for 24 hours. the bubbles expand, rise to the surface, and dissipate.
BUT, DOT 5 is not compatible with DOT 3,4,or 5.1. A disassemble and clean is required but you don`t have to change the seals . A friend of mine runs DOT 5 in his V-Max and hasn`t had sticky pistons or any problems for about three years now and the fluid is still clear.
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One of the problems you`re going to find out about is the fact that brake fluid is glycol based and is perfectly compatible with a type of rubber called EPDM. ATF is a petroleum based fluid and uses a rubber called nitrile or Buna N. (I am disregarding synthetics for the monent). Brake fluid is NOT compatible with Buna N and ATF is not compatible with EPDM.
You`re going to find the seals will swell and turn very soft.
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yep
2 out of 4 diaphragms shredded. I'm just gonna replace all 4 since I got it pulled apart.
Honda shop here wants $100 bucks a piece....fack!
I'll bring the Fatties anyway.
Cheers
Try these guys. Usually the cheapest around and I`ve never had any problems. And they have your diaphragms for about $76!
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spray on a good penetrating lube, let it soak in, and try changing directions. Out as far as you can, but not too much force, in a bit, and then back out a bit more. Work it back and forth.
Sounds like last night
Somehow,...I knew someone was going to turn this into a NWS thread!!!
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I can`t see header wrap catching fire unless there`s something there to combust. Could be the incident was the result of oil leaking into the wrap which soaked it up and eventually ignited.
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Also, if you can get access to the threads of the bolt spray on a good penetrating lube, let it soak in, and try to remove the bolt changing directions. Out as far as you can, but not too much force, in a bit, and then back out a bit more. Work it back and forth.
If you can`t get to the threads, back the bolt out as far as you can, lean the bike in the direction where the lube will run down the shank and get to the threads. Let it soak in. Repeat as above.
The extraction sockets shown in a previous answer are available at several sources. They are made by Irwin tools and also available at Sears. Also Snap-On if you find yourself with a rather large amount of disposable cash.
Hope this helps.
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Ummm, just a thought here,... stock head bearings are balls,....you`ve installed tapered. You can`t use the stock torque figures for the head bearings as the two bearings react differently to preload. I think it was Airborne who said to try checking the force required to move the handlebars with the front wheel in the air. You may find you`ll have to back way off on the torque.
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That`s strange! I have an `88 FJ and I had to take the sending unit out to coat the inside of the tank and mine came out no problem. What`s the dimension of the float and I`ll compare it to mine and see if it`s simimlar or someone had swapped it out at some time.
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Has everyone who has changed the star also replaced the spring? I`ve read some people leave the stock spring in and just change the star.
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I`m looking at changing the shift star on the end of the shift drum to try and get better/smoother shifts. Has anyone tried this item from Factory Pro? Thought I`d ask opinions before dropping $200.
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Might be a long shot,......check your battery and charging system. I just had the exact same symptoms on my Yamaha SRX600. @low rpm the battery could keep up with the charging system but at higher rpm it couldn`t and the voltage would climb as the regulator couldn`t keep up. Blew two headlights and a turn signal before the lightbulb in MY head turned on. Replaced the battery and all was good.
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I like the feel of them but I had to put them on as I have taller handlebars and the stock hoses were too short. I made my own from Earl`s parts and hose.
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I understood the engine off and cold part to be done after assembly of the engine.
For those that do the adjustment please post up your results.
I adjusted the clearances on the shafts as described here and in my manual and although mine weren`t out by much, maybe 1 mark, it didn`t do much for the vibration. The shifting however has improved by quite a bit! Not exactly sure how, not sure if it`s in my head, but it definitely seems better.
And also noted a slight reduction in clutch basket rattle when cold. Unexpected, but nice.
Upgraded forks from Northman, better shifting, almost feels like the first time I got on it after getting of my FJ1200!
Thanks guys!!
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The VTEC VFR 800 ('02 model) front sprocket is a perfect match for the bird with 14.5mm spline and 16 teeth with rubber damper
23801-MCW-D00
Just an observation I had with my FJ1200. If you use the sprocket with the rubber cushions, you must use a chain with the peanut shaped side links as the straight sided links will try and be forced out of the sprocket groove. It`ll wreck your chain in about 6-8ooo km. Yeah, I found out the hard way, and no shop had ever heard of this because all (I`m assuming) aftermarket sprockets don`t have the cushions.
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I know I can order from Ron Ayer's for $9.98 a piece + shipping, but does it really have to be gsxr specific ? Or will any 530 o-ring master link work ? Thanks
I`ve changed a few chains and even from the same manufacturers there are differences between models of chains. From what I`ve seen, the higher end chains have slightly bigger pins than the cheaper models even from the same maker so I`d get a master link specifically for that chain. Or if you`re on good terms with your local dealer you can go through their stock of DID master links and find one that matches exactly. Take a caliper.
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I have a vibration problem that I have been trying to find for the last couple of weeks.
It is mostly felt in the left footpeg, really noticed between 35 and 55 MPH. Its a even, constant, THUMP THUMP THUMP, kinda reminds me of old bias ply tires when they are cold. You only notice it when running along under very little load, not while accelerating or de-accelerating, If you pull in the clutch and coast, you also don't feel it.
Since it is felt on the left side, first thing I thought of was a tight link in the chain, so it was gone over and cleaned and lubed, checking closely for a frozen link somewhere. None was found, and the chain is well within the green for adjustment. I have run the chain on the loose side, as well as a little over tight, the vibration problem seems the same. Front and rear sprockets also look fine.
I also thought that maybe the chain was hitting the center stand, as I have D&D slipons, and thought it might be riding higher than stock. This still hasn't fixed the problem.
I'm asking for help, as I have run out of ideas, short of spending $200 + for new chain and sprockets that I don't think is really needed.
Thanks in advance...
I have an FJ1200 that had an unusual problem. I had changed the chain with an aftermarket one and bought the OEM sprockets. The chain was toast within 6000 miles!! Turns out the OEM sprocket has those hard rubber cushions on the side. They keep chain noise down and help pass noise emissions. The problem is you can`t use the OEM sprocket with a chain that has straight sided links!! You need the "peanut " shaped links. The straight sides of the link hit the rubber and tries to lift the chain out of the sprocket groove.
Also, I`ve seen rear sprockets come from the factory that have been machined slightly off center causing a tight-loose-tight-loose scenario.
Hope this helps.
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I have a 99 bird and I noticed that when I first start it up, in neutral with the clutch out, I hear alot of rattling coming out of the clutch cover. If I squeeze in the clutch, it goes away. After riding for awhile, the noise goes away. I've read that the clutch basket makes noise on these bikes. Is this the case, or should I look for another issue? The bike only has 24000 miles on it. Any help would be appreciated.
I have a 2000 Bluebird with the same problem. Originally, I had intended on lifting the tank to sync the throttle bodies like I do with my other bikes only to find 2 twin throttle bodies with no provision for synching!!
Has anyone found a way of adjusting the synch or mixture to smooth out the idle? Mine does the same thing when cold and when warming up. When warm,...the noise nearly disappears.
Clutch fluid going dark really fast.
in The Garage
Posted
Are you running the original rubber clutch lines? Have you ever mixed dot 3,4,5, or 5.1? Have you ever mixed different types of dot 3 or 4 fluid? I`m asking that because I see there`s different dot3 fluids for different vehicles with different boiling points. Not sure if all the additives are compatible but it certainly sounds like rubber deterioration.