Furbird
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Posts posted by Furbird
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6 hours ago, rockmeupto125 said:
I'm comfortable with the trenched perimeter pad and 12 inch reinforced concrete planned for under the lift.
I'll keep an eye on the 4 runs of wire 120 feet long.
Where did you buy your lift?
1) Da fuk U liftin', a school bus? 4-4.5" of concrete will support a 10k lift. You are pouring WAY more concrete than necessary for a lift. Your concern should be the footers for the building supports, not the lift. I had engineered drawings and pulled permits on my building. Yes it cost more, but it added massive value to my property (way more than my investment). My building is wind-rated to 140 or so (I'd have to check) and insulated.
2) That makes more sense. I went overkill factoring on 100+ amps of service (as in killing the power pole) because I figure my inner Tim Allen is going to show up.
3) Mine came out of Mississippi from a Rotary/Forward dealer. I have a Forward because (at the time) they had the last of the widest drive-through available. Now Rotary got so many complaints from dealers they started offering that same drive-through again. Do NOT buy a lift unless it is ANSI and ALI certified. -
1 hour ago, rockmeupto125 said:
And if you'd like a second floor as I had planned to store parts, well...too bad.
I need 14 foot walls stickbuilt for the same headroom
Anyone here ever pour concrete?
Anybody got 500 ft of AWG4 aluminum for sale cheap?
1) build a loft inside the building, on posts off to one side, and call it a shelf. I built one for the corner of my shop and put engines/transmissions/press/sandblast cabinet under it and even hung the fat kid go-cart off the bottom of it. On top is wheels/tires and all kinds of other stuff.
2) no you don't. The pitch of the roof will clear the lift and the vehicle. My front and rear walls are only 12 foot I believe and the roof slope was increased to give center height clearance for the lift. I also have the tallest and widest lift on the market in the 10k capacity range. I can lift my Astro to the roof rack and not hit anything and still walk under it.
3) FOR THE LOVE OF GOD DO NOT DO THIS. Have your concrete guy get with the building guy and pour the foundation CORRECTLY. YOU NEED FOOTERS NOT A FLAT SLAB.
4) Please video the fire if you run a building 500 ft away from a power pole on AWG4 aluminum pulling 220 to run a shop with a lift, compressor, and lights. I've never seen earth turn directly to liquid hot magma. You are aware distance is your enemy, right? It's going to take larger wire or you are seriously underestimating your peak power consumption (or not planning for future usage such as welding, air conditioning, etc.) Buy once, cry once.-
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5 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:
The lights worked intermittently. This meant it wasn’t the bulbs. The lights either came on or they didn’t. They didn’t flicker once on. That told me the odds were it was a bad switch or lose wire near the front of the harness and not the rear. It also wasn’t the first time this happened and I fixed it…so I remember it being about the brake switch.
Mine did the exact same thing. It was a broken filament in the bulb on one side and a bad connection on the other (corrosion in the socket). You could literally slap the taillight and the bulb would start working again. So, again, no offense but you're starting at the hardest part of the vehicle to work on, under the dash, where I did 12v electronics for almost a decade. -
So...um...no offense...but you started at the HARDEST POSSIBLE AREA. I would have started at the bulbs and worked my way forward. Then again I own GM's and it's always a bulb problem so there's that... (unless it's an Express van then it is, in fact the switch)
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I know that the iphone repair shops remove the glass with a Harbor Freight heat gun in like two minutes. I'm sure Apple has a $1000 tool they use for that.
Difference is they don't use bailing wire and duct tape like we did, they just use a real tool in a different way whereas we went "that shit'll hold!" -
I've got a battery right now in my shop that will "show" 12 volts at rest and as soon as you put a load on it, it goes "LOL". I've got a couple of Dewalt 12v drill batteries that will charge up just fine then you put them in the tool and they MIGHT last 2 minutes (and y'all have fun with the easiest softball in the world... 🤣)
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You know those dumbass plastic inserts Dodge uses on wiper arms and other linkages where the metal "tit" pops in to the plastic "receiver" so it's not metal on metal? Well that plastic piece failed on my dad's 87 Dakota in the drive-thru at Hardee's. I slid under it, popped it into drive with a pair of pliers, and used a hose clamp to keep that shifter rod from the column shifter attached to the transmission.
That was at least 25 years ago and I still don't think the current owner has fixed it properly.
My grandfather taught me that. He fixed a Soundesign dual cassette jam box I got for Christmas when I was maybe 10. We were playing on the stairs at his house and I fell and broke the handle. I'm 47, that repair still holds, and the radio still works. They'll probably bury me with that radio. -
Nothing that drastic, but I was 246 at my heaviest now weigh 200. My secret?
Bought a house.
Couldn't afford to eat out every day. No diet, no exercise, just eat more sandwiches from home and less food overall. Started off with the sandwiches, then cut out the soft drinks (made my knees feel 100 times better too) and brought sweet tea in a Powerade bottle from home. When I did eat fast food, get the normal size instead of large size. Now the broke part of my life is the norm, even though I make more money now than I did at the dealership. Only eat fast food maybe twice a week, might splurge and get a pizza once every couple of months or a big-ass hamburger, otherwise it's the $5-6 value menu stuff then I'll eat a sandwich for dinner (because my "big" meal was lunch.)-
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We don't have that issue here. Humidity levels are so high the AC drain is steady. And my drain line is close to 3/4" diameter.
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Smoking deal. Too bad it's 800+ miles one way for me. I'm sure Joe will jump at it though.
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While I appreciate the test and it's results, the fact is the only time I ever really used these on a regular basis was holes in firewalls for doing car stereo and we never had to drill large holes through anything of any real thickness. If Harbor Freight had been around back then, we would have bought them by the dozen as everything was 1/2" and we used snap or rubber grommets that size. We had a limited depth hole saw (believe it's 3/4 or 1", still have it buried in a drawer somewhere) for large gauge wire installations and roof mount antennas for the old 3 watt permanent mount cell phone antennas. These days, the only time I use the ones I have (Harbor Freight) is to enlarge a hole that doesn't have to be accurate. $40+ for a bit vs $7 when you're going to have to go back through it again with an accurate size drill bit anyway seems a little steep to me, especially if it's already on the drill press.
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My question would be why does it need to be replaced? Why are you not suffering like those of us that have had to repair our OE ones? 🤣
In all seriousness, buying an 18 year old harness may not be much better than fixing your 20 year old harness.-
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This is what I have (minus the passenger backrest and without the blue piping), scored it on ebay before my big Deal's Gap trip over a decade ago and it made all the difference in the world. I don't think I ever put the stock seat back on. It has a tear in it that I never repaired and it never got worse. Best seat hands-down I've ever sat on on any bike I've ever owned. I think I made 11 trips through the Dragon that time plus a run over the Cherohala (did the full loop) plus the Hellbender. Never ridden that much in my life; this seat made all the difference. YMMV.
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48 minutes ago, rockmeupto125 said:
He posted an email address to use.
That's also a red flag, that way it's not in the forum server so admin can pull it up if they play hide-and-go-seek. Pretty sure Carlos keeps backups IIRC. Kinda like ebay tells you to use their message system and not contact a seller outside of ebay. -
I sent the OP a direct message because that appears to be their only post. Seems a little fishy to me because they are talking about the neighbor selling the bike for somebody else and you are talking about possible issues with the title and bill of sale.
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PM'ed and texted.
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Yadda yadda, Osama and yo momma made Barack Hussein Obama...
What year is the van?The hydraulics in the bucket are electrical over hydraulic? As in you have to have electric and hydraulic to operate them from the bucket?
Option one. Remote starter on the van.
Option two. Vehicle voltage gauge in the bucket. Best to use with option one or else you're going to be getting down a lot.Option three. Battery in the bucket that allows the solenoids to work, if they are electrical, to allow the hydraulics to release so you can get down if the vehicle batteries die.
Option four (and very dumb, very expensive, do not do this, you've been warned). Run an ignition switch for the van all the way up the bucket (again, don't do this, you will need MEGA wire size or will have to relay EVERY WIRE ON THE SWITCH IN THE DASH to run smaller wires that far, DO NOT DO THIS).
Option five. Get rid of whatever fancy schmancy thingie you had on there and the redneckery you have now and get an isolator and wire it correctly to eliminate this battery problem so you're not killing your vehicle battery. Again, do this with another option while you're at it.
Obviously, check all your wiring, make sure you're not about to burn down the neighborhood or whatever Slapper says, Hookers, and get a check from Dave to pay for everything. That about covers it, I think? Oh, and you're racist. And move. And whatever else everybody is complaining about.-
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Never on a bird. I've seen the disasters that can occur with auto struts in wall mounted strut compressors when somebody makes one mistake, so there is no way I would try that without having all the proper tools. Some things are better left to the pros.
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Might want to put those in MURICA sizing...
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I'll bite. How much for a set of injectors?
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Jeez, even a chain and sprocket thread starts a war.
I've run 16/45 on the street bike forever. Seriously, changed it over at the first oil change, along with a full D&D system. Steel ONLY, no issues (although the adjusters do end up a pretty good ways in the red even when the stock chain is still good so you can forget using that as your "replacement guideline.")
Drag bike ran 12/49 for a weekend, was in 6th in the 1/8th! Wheelie bars because you could not keep it down. -
Still sitting in Fred's driveway waiting on Joe to show up. Tomorrow at 7:59pm they're mine! 😁
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I'm sitting in your driveway and Joe is the winning bidder? I want a recount 🤣
Surprised it wasn't marked sold as soon as Joe replied. I'm 300 miles closer and he still would have beat me there 😁-
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Finally.........the New Money Pit (a Garage for Topic Clarity)
in Handyman
Posted
Well if that's the case, then don't tell them you're wiring it either. "It's a storage building." Next time they show up it's a night club with stripper poles for an XX meeting.