Furbird
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Posts posted by Furbird
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Wrapping won't hurt anything, they have used it in the drag car world for years. It may look like crap, but it works. Ceramic coating (aka Jett Hott) is EXTREMELY expensive, especially if you have chrome headers (as I do). They have to remove the chrome, which costs about 50-100 bucks more. They dip all headers the same, so used or new does not change the price. Only price changes are size and dechroming. Motorcycle headers would be cheapest to do since there's only one, versus car headers. The last time I checked, with a buddy discount, my header on my dragbike would have cost me $250 to have coated. No thanks!!
And just because the factory doesn't do it doesn't mean squat. Perfect example, my 96 Formula. GM put a rearend out of a Vega in a car with an engine from a Vette and a tranny from a Viper. Any idiot knows they should have used a bigger rearend. The only thing manufacturers worry about is how much they can save by cutting corners. Any time you decrease engine bay temperatures you are helping your motor and all surrounding electronics. On our bikes, the header sits less than 2 inches form the radiator, which causes the water to get even hotter. Wrapping the header would decrease engine temp, water temp, increase flow, increase HP, and increase gas mileage.
Hell, I just convinced myself to go buy header wrap
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You should have gotten video footage of it so they could have used it in Torque
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I'm sure this has been covered before, but can somebody give a step by step of how to do this? I'm draining the coolant in the bike this week and replacing it with Watter Wetter. I just want to make sure I do it right.
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Hmm, well, all I can say is, crap. I guess I'll stick with my ContiForces, because I can attest that those are the best tires I have ever had on any motorcycle in my 9 years of riding. 10,000 plus miles on rear tires with mostly straightline and drag racing, with no tire spin. The front lasted about 12,000.
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I use a Canyon Dancer only. Check the straps every time you fill up, unless you're driving a Prius then you might actually have to stop on your "no stops 1000 mile between fill-up" trips. My bike fell once right after I got it, and that's because I didn't have it tightened down enough and the trailer went off in a 10" deep pothole when I was leaving a motel. The whole right side of the trailer came 2 feet off the ground, so it's no wonder the strap let loose.
I've broken a strap before on the interstate with just the Canyon Dancer. The bike leaned over on the kickstand and stayed there until I could get stopped. You don't need rear straps with a 500# bike.
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My stock DID X-ring lasted longer than my current RK GXW has. I will not buy another RK chain. The DID is the best, in my opinion.
As far as sprockets go, stick with steel. I run JT sprockets on mine because they are so much cheaper than OEM, but that's up to you.
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Use your engine to help you brake up to a stoplight. I'll get all the way down to second before I hit the brake, then go from second to neutral. I always cover the clutch and gearshifter until a car stops behind me, but I don't sit at a light holding the clutch in. That is serious wear on the bearing that holds the clutch basket out, and I don't like looking like a Harley guy (they hold the clutch in for hours at a time).
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Which one do you have, the dual throttle cable style (plastic, one piece) or the universal one (metal, 3 piece)?
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Never heard of the rubber coming off a front sprocket before. Regardless, that shouldn't cause the type of noise you were talking about. That noise is usually because the chain is not tightened up to spec. I think the dealer is taking you for a ride personally, but I don't trust dealers anyway. That's why I do my own work to my bike.
What's he charging you for this front sprocket? If it's anymore than $25 plus labor, then it's classified as RAPE. You can get front sprockets all day long for 18-25 bucks.
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The Water Wetter instructions say to not use any coolant at all, so you guys using this, what's the correct way to do it?
I've thought about investing in a second fan for the bird, because we have the same problem here in Mobile. I shut my bike off at long lights that way I don't have to worry about it. Also, if the light is short, or if you just don't want to shut it off, you can use the water pump to your advantage. When the fan comes on, raise the RPM's up to about 2000 or so. This allows the water to flow much faster than at idle, and actually keeps the bike cooler than letting it sit at idle.
Has anybody rigged an aftermarket thermostat to their bike to turn the fans on earlier? Granted the fan would run more often, but turning it on earlier should make it easier to keep it cooler. I don't know about you guys, but once my fan comes on, it's like fighting an uphill battle. The temp still climbs until you get moving again.
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Jimmystartup, it did the same thing to me. Then I figured out that I hit the scroll part of my mouse while it was highlited and it went to "next day air". Click on "ground" then click on the white part of the page so it doesn't do that. 198.00 shipped to me (didn't order them, just had to check)
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WOW that is cheap! You can't get a set of ContiForces for that money. I didn't check shipping, but if it's about $10 a tire, it's normal. Tires are expensive because of size and awkward shape, not weight. I might have to scoop a set of those pretty quick.
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I have the RK and WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER ONE!!!
The stock ZVM lasted 18k miles roughly, this one's at 11k and is WAY past spec. They SUCK ASS! Buy the DID.
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If it's as good or better than the ContiForce's that I run, I will most definitely buy them.
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I'm the same height/inseam as you, and have had no ill effects from removing some preload on the spring. I have never dragged/drug/however you say it... anything on the ground, but have gotten a knee down. I do a lot of drag racing and try to hit some corners when I can, and lowering it that little bit has done nothing but help me.
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That's a good question. I don't know what you could do to the panel itself to dissipate heat considering the proximity to the header. Usually, materials that will adhere to the plastic will either burn up because they can't handle the heat, or end up transferring the heat to the outer panel anyway.
Your best bet would be to wrap the header like they do on drag cars. If you're really swimming in money, you could have the header coated with Jet Hot which will keep it cooler. My vote is for the wrap. Most auto parts stores have it, but if not you can pick it up at summitracing.com.
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Ouch. Not supposed to link it up until it is installed on the bike. Looks like a swingarm removal for you. Muchas painful
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Been down that road. 30" inseam = no feet flat on the ground. I just knocked some preload out of the spring and took care of it. Didn't do the fork tubes thing, that's WAY too much like work
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I've had the same problem. The cure is to wheelie as much as possible and it keeps the radiator dry
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You don't need a lowering link if you're only going an inch. I took some spring rate out of the rear and upped the shock rate some, and solved my problem. I have a 30" inseam and had problems getting both feet flat on the ground at stock height. This put the bike low enough to get both feet flat yet still be able to keep the bike as stock appearing as possible.
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Sweet. I have the exact gears (18/43) sitting in the garage right now. Time to go school the new R1's, 1000RR's, and GSXR1000's that claim they can go 200. Might have to roll away from a few Busas for you boys as well :twisted:
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Please, no flames, just personal experience.
I picked up a set of Rpine bulbs on ebay late last year and just got around to putting them on the bike. No jokes, the low beam 100 watt is brighter than both the low AND high beams in the 55 watt. I have people flashing me with just the low beam on, then I hit my real high beam on them and see an X'ray shadow of them going AHHH!!
The shipping this guy charges is insane, but if you pick up two or more sets you can save a lot of money. I got 4 bulbs for like $20 shipped. And they do look like HID's. The bulb is blue, but when it lights up it has that purplish/bluish/whitish HID glow. I've had probably 4 different kinds of bulbs between the car and the bike, and these are the only ones that give the correct color.
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I'm with Northman on this one, as we both do a lot of racing. 35-37 pounds, 42 is just way too much in my opinion, and I'm no lightweight. So I can imagine how bad it is for you "100 pound soaking wet" guys
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I want one. And Bajjer, I got you covered if you really want it. Might save us a few pennies on shipping, and I can meet up with you whenever you get settled in. Better option than paying 22 billion for one at the local Honda shop
Exhaust wrapping...should we or not?????
in The Garage
Posted
And if you look right there at the top of the page, it says they charge extra for chrome/nickel removal. You stock guys are ok, but those of us with full systems just got porked in the bunghole.
I live less than 100 miles from Jet Hot. And I know people who have done tens of thousands of dollars in business with them. Their chrome charge is not "minimal", and $130 to coat a header is a lot of money in my book.
I'm gonna wrap mine and see what happens. It'll either work or it won't, but $20 or $30 for header wrap and about 3 hours of time is worth it for the help it might do for my bike. 95 degree, 95% humidity, EVERY DAY.