Furbird
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Posts posted by Furbird
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Between Northman and I, we should be able to handle any question you have. I have nitrous on my car and my bike, a dry kit and a wet kit respectively, and have had them for around 4-5 years.
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blackhawkxx, mine is mostly a scare tactic. I have used it at the track, and usually in second gear. You see, in "drag race mode", you sit differently than you do normal riding. When I race, I am leaned all up on the tank, so I can hit it in second and control it. It still wheelies, so I may have to tap the button a couple of times to ease the shock, but you can still ride it out. Third is no problem.
On the street, I sit up and further back on the seat. So third gear hitting the button means "wheelie-time!". It's all about how you position your weight. And since I weigh around 240, leaning forward makes a hella difference.
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150 shot, go for the gusto!
Actually, Northman has hit it on the head, as is expected, since he and I are the only nitrous guys on the board. I run a direct port 70 shot on my bike, but use it rarely. Trust me, when it hits, you know it. Let's just say 3rd gear "button wheelies" are rather easy. 4th gear would be too, but I don't plan on trying it anytime soon.
The only downside to having nitrous on your bike is that nobody will want to mess with you. I've had my bottle on my bike for probably 3 years or better, and I've only had one guy ever call me out. Unfortunately for him, he has a car, NA at that, and it runs like 6.80's in the eigth when it runs, so he got his ass whooped on MOTOR. I coulda wheelied the whole track and beat him on the bottle, but that would have just been overkill
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If you're killing Conti's in 3k miles, then you do entirely too many burnouts. I get like 10k out of mine with 38 PSI and mostly straight up riding.
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My ContiForce Max's didn't look anything like that, even after 6k miles and a 1 minute burnout :shock:
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I got like 12k out of the factory D205, then about 5-6k out of my first ContiForce (only because I did a 1 minute long circle burnout and killed it), then 10-11k or so out of my last ContiForce. Most of my riding is straight up. I've been to the Gap once, but there's just not a lot of curves around here. Still had about 1/8th inch of chicken strips on the tires, except for the one that went to the Gap :twisted: And yes, that's with wheelies, stoppies, burnouts, drag racing, and any other hooliganistic acts you can think of. I'm no lightweight either, as I weigh 240#'s. I don't know why I get such good mileage, but I'm not complaining. I've had such good luck with Conti's on the bird I will never buy anything else.
It certainly doesn't hurt that I can buy a set for less than some people pay for just a back tire :cool:
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I just got my ContiForce II's on the road about 2 weeks ago. You want to know how long it took to break them in? One 1/4 mile pass up my road sweeping side to side. Fastest scrub-in I've ever had on a tire. Stickiness? Did a stoppie after less than 10 miles. Wet weather traction? Rode it today in sprinkling rain (as we all know the worst kind) and no issues, even at medium throttle in sweepers. Wheelied after less than 5 miles. I got about 10-11k out of my last ContiForce rear, so we'll see how well these ContiForce II's hold up.
Couldn't do the Road Attacks after that horrible write-up on this site.
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I wish I could find a race that was "stock suspension". What I mean by that is stock wheelbase, stock shocks and forks, no straps. Run 'em like you buy 'em at the dealer. I believe birds could rule that class, because every time I have run up on a stock suspension Busa, his next stop is on the trailer :twisted:
My track used to have a streetbike class. It was bracket, run what your brung, but no bars and a street tire required (no drag radials allowed). I had my old KZ1000 full on drag bike out there with a Cheng Shin rear tire (talk about funny looking) and ruled ass in that class. Other guys started bolting up street tires on their drag bikes too, but they couldn't dial in correctly. 5 weeks in a row, it was me and a guy on a ZX11 bone stock in the final. He hated me, cause 5 weeks in a row I busted his ass
Unfortunately, I won so much they combined all bikes together. -
It is a cool feeling, as long as you don't break your first set like I did. I guess bird power + 70 shot was a little too much for them.
I LOVE the training wheels statement. Let me go tell Angelle Savoie, Matt Hines, John Force, Kenny Bernstein, and Big Daddy Don Garlits you said that :roll:
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I'd check on the rules for the local track. If there is no penalty for running bars, then bars are the way to go. They get the power to the ground more efficiently than extended swingarms. I have a set of bars for my bike, and can go from streetbike to dragbike in 1 hour, and that includes changing out the rear wheel and removing the shock and installing the strut for the bars. Plus, I stay stock length so my street riding is not affected by having a 22 foot swingarm hanging out the back
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I use it too. My chain guard catches most of it, but I still get some buildup at the very back, bottom corner of the fairing and on the wheel. Small price to pay for such a cheap lube. I spray mine down probably every 100-150 miles or so, and clean it with an old toothbrush about every 1,000.
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I can see how the front would work, but I do NOT trust those rear pegs. You do know that those things bend the subframe slightly just from somebody getting on the rear of the bike one time? I certainly would trust it to hold the bike down for a trip.
But I don't strap the back of my bike down so I guess it really doesn't matter a whole lot
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I've only ran the bars a couple of times, so I never had a chance to get them dialed in right. I have a slick too, but I need gears to run it. Once I get it all dialed in, it should run 9.70's or so on gas with my big ass on it
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This dragracer runs stock length, and if I'm feeling frisky I bolt on the wheelie bars. Extended swingarms cost too much money for the lack-o-rules racing we have down here.
I have seen a bird with a stock bobbed fender, but it had a swingarm mounted license plate bracket so that everything would clear.
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I did this once. All I did was put the spacers on the wrong sides. Of course, it took out my bearings when I did that too, so I had two noises.
Oh yeah, those would be the bearings I had JUST put in about 5000 miles earlier, DOH!!
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All it's going to do at the most is reduce the sound a little. It's still going to make sound because it's still a hard object hitting a plastic object, except it will have about 1/16th of an inch of rubber coating on it.
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It must be so he can "spotlight" deer without taking the time to aim the whole bike
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Whatever you do, do NOT do the "American Chopper wheel install technique", which is using a BIG ASS SLEDGE to install the axle. Not only do you risk messing up your axle, you will DEFINITELY tear up the bearings. I know it can be frustrating, as my first time was too, but now I can do a rear wheel swap (I have 3) in about 2 minutes.
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I have dyna coils on my KZ1000, but to the best of my knowledge the screw terminals go to the 12 volt and ignition out leads.
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Considering the Scottoilers oil like every 300 INCHES, I don't think overoiling is a bad thing. (It only seems like 300 inches cause they are messy). I oil mine every two rides, or more often. Basically, if it's not damp with oil, I oil it. I got like 18k out of the stock ZVM doing that, and that was with WD40.
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Everybody has forgotten the most important question: What gears are you running? If you are one down on the front then your chain will hit red a lot sooner than normal, even though it is NOT worn out. If you change down in gearing, the chain "appears" stretched.
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That is rather interesting. If you figure out why it does that "floating" thing, let us know. Maybe it could be an easy thing to fix. That alone would make me buy a PCII.
Err, and also the idea that you could make a map that is 12.7 all through the power band so I could whoop up on some swingarm Busas with my stock length Bird :twisted:
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Pretty sure all those blacks are ground. Probably couldn't get thick enough wire to solder to the board to run a single ground out, so they ran 3 out.
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Sometimes you can snatch one off ebay for less than $50 and save yourself some heartache.
BTW, I can tell from the pics that it's tweaked, so I know it will show up in the measurements.
Audiovox CCS-100 Cruise Control Instalation
in The Garage
Posted
Actually, I believe he got the fully electric one. That one you listed is vaccuum controlled, and I don't believe a bike pulls enough vaccuum to run the cruise control, which is why he went full electric. I installed cruises for 2 years, and I have to agree with him on the decision to go electric. It costs 2 or 3 times as much, but is a much better and more stable cruise control with less install time and more resistant to weather. Not to mention there are no mechanical parts to fail other than the motor to pull the cable back and forth.