Furbird
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Posts posted by Furbird
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The general consensus is to never mix brands on a bike. The different tire compounds and overall construction can cause some weird handling problems. Now if you were going with another stock rear, that'd be ok, but since you're not, I'd get both done at the same time.
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#1, unfortunately, that sounds like front wheel bearings to me. This can be caused by 3 things;
1) overtightening the front axle (most likely)
2) wear (not your problem, bike is new)
3) wheel installed backwards (don't laugh, I did it, and somehow it screwed them up)
I'd be more apt to number one. Take it to the dealer, tell them they screwed up, and you have Johnny Cochran's ghost on speed-dial
#2, more than likely it's the gaskets. There is a chance that it's just not tight enough, but unlikely. I changed my pipes at the 600 mile break-in oil change and didn't have to do the gaskets. Maybe I was just lucky.
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Don't get me wrong, I don't agree with paying $500 for a helmet either when the $100 do just as good a job. I just don't know how well something that's not Snell certified would hold up in a bad wreck. And hopefully I'll never find out.
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Open mouth, insert foot, I didn't know they were all full-face. DOT rules are so light that a bowl with a bungee cord could pass
My theory on the helmet ratings is that the more certifications, the better. Think about something. If you fall down at speed, how many times will your helmet hit the ground? Probably a lot more than once. The pro guys can get away with only hitting once if at all, but the world is not a racetrack and we all don't get paid 2 million a year to ride a bike for 45 minutes at a time. There's a lot more shit to hit on the road than inside a car, especially now with Hans devices, padded cages, and even the helmet "cradles" that Nascar now uses so the helmet can't hit anything.
What I'm getting at it is this. If you fall, and you're helmet cracks on the first blow, what happens if your head hits the next time, or 2, 3, or 4 times? "One strike" helmets are about as good as wearing a bowl with a bungee cord. After the first blow, it's like you never had one on at all.
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Maybe they need to do a comparo regarding full face helmets ONLY and see what does better. I won't wear a bowl, because while it might be kinder to your brain, it doesn't keep your face from being grinded off in a wreck.
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I run 87 at the dragstrip in mine, except when I'm messing with the bottle. No sense in buying 93 when 87 does the job. I get 35-40 MPG and all my riding is in town.
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I run a 16/45 on the street because it a) helps low-end and
makes it easier to wheelie.Today I received my new setup, a 12/49 (yeah, I said 12). But don't worry, that's not for the street. That's for my slick and wheelie bars so I can see what the Bird will really do on motor!
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The reason for the strap is to prevent the front end from "springing" up thanks to the fork pressure. If the forks never move, they can't spring the tire off the ground. The only way to accomplish this is to strap the shit out of it, which means to where the fender almost touches the bottom of the fairing.
Another drag racing trick is putting a strut in place of the rear shock. With that and a strap, your bike is now reduced to no suspension at all. I don't recommend you try this with a radial tire though as the sidewall stiffness doesn't allow the tire to crinkle and act as the suspension since you now have none. You've got to have some kind of suspension on the rear so that the tire can stay planted on the ground. You can lower the pressure to make up for it, but it still won't hook up like a bias ply tire would (like an ET street or a full on slick).
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Strapping the front of the bird costs about $25 and takes about 30 minutes even if you have problems. The strap is available sometimes at bike dealers but certainly at motorcycle accessory stores that deal with sportbikes. If you can't find it local, they're on ebay, at schnitzracing.com, and at other aftermarket suppliers. Uses factory bolts on the bike, you just have to route the strap under the lines and over the top of the frame behind the trees.
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You guys need new tires, not lowering pressure. My 6.40 pass was full leathers, 38 psi rear, stock length, stock suspension, D&D full system, and 16 front sprocket. Tires? Continental Contiforce. NO BURNOUT either. And no tire spin.
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It can also blow out your fork seals as well.
What you need to do is ride out with the strap loose. Then, when some dumbass in a riced out Civic rolls up and revs on you, you can grab the strap, lower the bike in like a second, and spank-dat-ass
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You can't really go by the stickers as they are not all that accurate. If you have changed either sprocket, they're gonna be off, so I wouldn't even worry about them. The most obvious sign of a dying chain is the "popping" on the sprocket regardless of how well you keep it lubed. This means that a link in the chain is binding and it's only a matter of time before it breaks.
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The trick is to take the side without the cambuckle on it and do all your running with it. You can snake it underneath all the lines and then down the "driver's side" without going over anything. It's tedious, but it will go. BTW, I just checked my bolt locations, and it is on the reflector bolt on the "driver's side".
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Mine runs across the top of the frame right behind the triple tree and underneath everything. It took a little work, but it will go in there. It's attached on the "passenger's side" at the top bolt for the brake, and on the "driver's side" I *believe* at the top bolt for the LBS front regulator thingie (it might be on the reflector bolt, can't remember). Regardless, it doesn't make a bit of difference in my ET's so I hardly ever use it. This past weekend I made 2 passes with it and 2 without it, and all 4 passes were within .06 of each other. Of course, when I run the wheelie bars and slick I have to strap the front end, but considering I've only bolted them on the bike twice in 2 years, that strap pretty much just sits there
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I actually have the module "cheat sheet", with all the resistor values so you can make your own pills for the MSD products. The resistors and the correct plugs cost me a whole $3 for like 20 of them, whereas a pack of 5 pills cost around $20.
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I ran into the same deal tonight at Walmart. Luckily, me and my buddy had to run down there to get some stuff for his wife, and I found 4 gallons of it (all they had left). I bought them all. $13.28 a gallon I believe. That should last me until Mobil gets their head out of their ass and gives us back our old stuff again
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Well I should have specified "before I furred it".
Now I just run a brush over it to get the bug guts off. The only thing I clean are the mirrors, wheels, swingarm, windscreen, and headlight. Which basically means that 1 paper towel and a glass of water and my bike is clean
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1) I don't wash my bike at a car wash so I don't have this issue. Typically, I clean the top end of my bike with a spray bottle so that I don't have flowing water running down on my electronics. Now, technically, the bike shouldn't have any problems at all, but if you got water in somewhere that normal rain wouldn't let water get too, that could have caused it. I don't know what everybody elses "proper" wash procedure is, but I don't "flow" water over my bike. Mist only, then dry with a towel.
2) Sounds like a starter to me. What is happening is that when you put it in gear and roll it forward or backward, it is getting out of it's dead spot and allowing the voltage to turn the starter over. Now it could be the solenoid, but the only way to really know is to tap on it with a screwdriver and see if that makes it start without rolling the bike in gear. I don't know if they are two separate parts or not, so somebody else will have to answer that part of your question.
3) I've always been told that the K&N doesn't really change that much, so I agree that the filter is probably not your problem. However, did you change plugs when you did the filter? They are supposed to be changed at approximately the same time, and if you didn't do that, the surge could be caused by a burned tip on a plug making the gap greater than it should be.
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They are the same bottle (and usually cheaper), but I do not know if the fittings are the same. If not, you can easily convert it. They make anything you can imagine for nitrous systems to convert AN to whatever.
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I'd love to go, but that's way, way, WAY too far to drive. Mobile to NEXXT would be like 1,000 miles. I haven't driven that far in years!
Note that I said driven. AKA trailer. The bike goes about 100 miles then stops all by itself thanks to the "anti-break your back" device I put in
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What he said
I have to have my high beam on and hit the horn button for mine to work. So if the horn sticks I just kill the high beam and that kills the nitrous.
I can't help you on the carbed version. My bike is EFI and was super easy to put the bottle on. None of that retard the timing, extra fuel pump, blah blah stuff.
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OMG, the Busa boys will be all over that:
"Our frames break in half severing major arteries and leaving us bleeding to death in the street, but at least our brakes still work."
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CBRXXRAGE, the fastest I've run in the 1/4 so far is 10.50. That was a long time ago though, all motor, and I weigh 240#'s. I have nitrous on my bike now but have never made a good pass on the juice. It either flies up on me without the bars or I bog off the line with the bars, hence the reason for the gear change. My goal is high 9's with a 15/47 sprocket combo on the bars and bottle. I figure I can turn around 10.30 or so with my current setup on motor and enough passes at the 1/4 to get consistent.
I run 6.40 in the 1/8 on motor, but that's because I run at that track all the time and am used to it. The 1/4 track is 100 miles away and I only go about once a year, so I never get used to that track and it's different conditions.
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We've had one review on them, and it wasn't good, but it's a possibility it was a tire pressure or some other issue. Somebody else I believe bought them from the guy and was supposed to give his review, but never responded. I run the Contiforce's myself, not the Road Attacks, and I love them.
radiator fluid
in The Garage
Posted
I thought that Water Wetter says to use less than a 50/50 mix with their products? I'm wondering what to use myself, as I have got to get some Water Wetter in my bike. It's 91 today with like 95% humidity, and the bike is getting hot. It's only hit out of the "range" once when the radiator fan fuse blew, but with the heat today, it was high enough to make me concerned. Of course, I was sitting in bumper to bumper for 10 minutes, so I was sweating like a Hebrew slave in all my gear, but I'll survive.