Furbird
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Posts posted by Furbird
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I run 87 at the dragstrip in mine, except when I'm messing with the bottle. No sense in buying 93 when 87 does the job. I get 35-40 MPG and all my riding is in town.
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I run a 16/45 on the street because it a) helps low-end and
makes it easier to wheelie.Today I received my new setup, a 12/49 (yeah, I said 12). But don't worry, that's not for the street. That's for my slick and wheelie bars so I can see what the Bird will really do on motor!
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The reason for the strap is to prevent the front end from "springing" up thanks to the fork pressure. If the forks never move, they can't spring the tire off the ground. The only way to accomplish this is to strap the shit out of it, which means to where the fender almost touches the bottom of the fairing.
Another drag racing trick is putting a strut in place of the rear shock. With that and a strap, your bike is now reduced to no suspension at all. I don't recommend you try this with a radial tire though as the sidewall stiffness doesn't allow the tire to crinkle and act as the suspension since you now have none. You've got to have some kind of suspension on the rear so that the tire can stay planted on the ground. You can lower the pressure to make up for it, but it still won't hook up like a bias ply tire would (like an ET street or a full on slick).
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Strapping the front of the bird costs about $25 and takes about 30 minutes even if you have problems. The strap is available sometimes at bike dealers but certainly at motorcycle accessory stores that deal with sportbikes. If you can't find it local, they're on ebay, at schnitzracing.com, and at other aftermarket suppliers. Uses factory bolts on the bike, you just have to route the strap under the lines and over the top of the frame behind the trees.
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You guys need new tires, not lowering pressure. My 6.40 pass was full leathers, 38 psi rear, stock length, stock suspension, D&D full system, and 16 front sprocket. Tires? Continental Contiforce. NO BURNOUT either. And no tire spin.
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It can also blow out your fork seals as well.
What you need to do is ride out with the strap loose. Then, when some dumbass in a riced out Civic rolls up and revs on you, you can grab the strap, lower the bike in like a second, and spank-dat-ass
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You can't really go by the stickers as they are not all that accurate. If you have changed either sprocket, they're gonna be off, so I wouldn't even worry about them. The most obvious sign of a dying chain is the "popping" on the sprocket regardless of how well you keep it lubed. This means that a link in the chain is binding and it's only a matter of time before it breaks.
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The trick is to take the side without the cambuckle on it and do all your running with it. You can snake it underneath all the lines and then down the "driver's side" without going over anything. It's tedious, but it will go. BTW, I just checked my bolt locations, and it is on the reflector bolt on the "driver's side".
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Mine runs across the top of the frame right behind the triple tree and underneath everything. It took a little work, but it will go in there. It's attached on the "passenger's side" at the top bolt for the brake, and on the "driver's side" I *believe* at the top bolt for the LBS front regulator thingie (it might be on the reflector bolt, can't remember). Regardless, it doesn't make a bit of difference in my ET's so I hardly ever use it. This past weekend I made 2 passes with it and 2 without it, and all 4 passes were within .06 of each other. Of course, when I run the wheelie bars and slick I have to strap the front end, but considering I've only bolted them on the bike twice in 2 years, that strap pretty much just sits there
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I actually have the module "cheat sheet", with all the resistor values so you can make your own pills for the MSD products. The resistors and the correct plugs cost me a whole $3 for like 20 of them, whereas a pack of 5 pills cost around $20.
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I ran into the same deal tonight at Walmart. Luckily, me and my buddy had to run down there to get some stuff for his wife, and I found 4 gallons of it (all they had left). I bought them all. $13.28 a gallon I believe. That should last me until Mobil gets their head out of their ass and gives us back our old stuff again
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Well I should have specified "before I furred it".
Now I just run a brush over it to get the bug guts off. The only thing I clean are the mirrors, wheels, swingarm, windscreen, and headlight. Which basically means that 1 paper towel and a glass of water and my bike is clean
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1) I don't wash my bike at a car wash so I don't have this issue. Typically, I clean the top end of my bike with a spray bottle so that I don't have flowing water running down on my electronics. Now, technically, the bike shouldn't have any problems at all, but if you got water in somewhere that normal rain wouldn't let water get too, that could have caused it. I don't know what everybody elses "proper" wash procedure is, but I don't "flow" water over my bike. Mist only, then dry with a towel.
2) Sounds like a starter to me. What is happening is that when you put it in gear and roll it forward or backward, it is getting out of it's dead spot and allowing the voltage to turn the starter over. Now it could be the solenoid, but the only way to really know is to tap on it with a screwdriver and see if that makes it start without rolling the bike in gear. I don't know if they are two separate parts or not, so somebody else will have to answer that part of your question.
3) I've always been told that the K&N doesn't really change that much, so I agree that the filter is probably not your problem. However, did you change plugs when you did the filter? They are supposed to be changed at approximately the same time, and if you didn't do that, the surge could be caused by a burned tip on a plug making the gap greater than it should be.
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They are the same bottle (and usually cheaper), but I do not know if the fittings are the same. If not, you can easily convert it. They make anything you can imagine for nitrous systems to convert AN to whatever.
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I'd love to go, but that's way, way, WAY too far to drive. Mobile to NEXXT would be like 1,000 miles. I haven't driven that far in years!
Note that I said driven. AKA trailer. The bike goes about 100 miles then stops all by itself thanks to the "anti-break your back" device I put in
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What he said
I have to have my high beam on and hit the horn button for mine to work. So if the horn sticks I just kill the high beam and that kills the nitrous.
I can't help you on the carbed version. My bike is EFI and was super easy to put the bottle on. None of that retard the timing, extra fuel pump, blah blah stuff.
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OMG, the Busa boys will be all over that:
"Our frames break in half severing major arteries and leaving us bleeding to death in the street, but at least our brakes still work."
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CBRXXRAGE, the fastest I've run in the 1/4 so far is 10.50. That was a long time ago though, all motor, and I weigh 240#'s. I have nitrous on my bike now but have never made a good pass on the juice. It either flies up on me without the bars or I bog off the line with the bars, hence the reason for the gear change. My goal is high 9's with a 15/47 sprocket combo on the bars and bottle. I figure I can turn around 10.30 or so with my current setup on motor and enough passes at the 1/4 to get consistent.
I run 6.40 in the 1/8 on motor, but that's because I run at that track all the time and am used to it. The 1/4 track is 100 miles away and I only go about once a year, so I never get used to that track and it's different conditions.
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We've had one review on them, and it wasn't good, but it's a possibility it was a tire pressure or some other issue. Somebody else I believe bought them from the guy and was supposed to give his review, but never responded. I run the Contiforce's myself, not the Road Attacks, and I love them.
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I'll take a stab at this one.
1) The CCT isn't that big a deal, is mostly a sound issue and not a failure part. The stock CCT sounds like marbles bouncing around at certain RPM's, the X11 CCT takes care of it. It's not necessary, but it does make it sound a little better. Well worth the $40-$50.
2) The bars are an issue for me, but I came from a cruiser directly to a bird. I just raised mine up and turned them out a little so it was more cruiser-style, but the guys on here with real raised bars from another bike or purpose built ones love them. I'd like to have them, but that's too much money for me.
3) FI versus carbs. I've heard this both ways, which one to get. My theory is FI is less work. No jetting issues, no "rich in high altitudes" problem, no choke when it's cold. FI is a little more jerky (aka changes to throttle position are more noticeable) but in my opinion, it is well worth the trade-off. Some people say you get better mileage with carbs, some say you get better mileage with FI. You'll have to see for yourself. Me personally, I will never own another carbed bike.
4) Power commander. Completely not necessary. I have had a full system on my 99 since it hit it's 600 mile break-in with no power commander (although I recently bought one but have yet to install it). You do not need it on this bike. Now if you do get one, you will notice slight power increases and it makes the bike more tune-able, but if you get one buy one used and save yourself some money.
5) There is nothing specific you need to look out for when purchasing a used XX. We don't break stuff, the bikes require almost zero maintenance, and they will run forever. After all, it is a Honda. The only thing that you really need to know (other than whether or not it's been crashed) is the maintenance schedule. Air filter change versus mileage (every 12,000 recommended but some of us stretch that), spark plug change (same as air filter), check the brake pads and rotors for uneven wear or scorching, ask the mileage on the chain and how often it's oiled, simple stuff like that. I have over 30k miles on my bike, and the only non-wear item I've had to replace was the rear brake switch, and it was a total of $9. Heck, I'm still on the stock clutch and I race mine fairly often.
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12/60 here.
Just kidding. Actually 16/45, but I have an 18/43 available in the garage for speed runs and a 47 waiting on my 15 front to get here so I can try to lower my ET's at the local track.
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I run Conti's and love them. I've had 3 rears and two fronts (one dedicated to the smoke god's rather early in it's life). However, there are some people on this board who hate them. I have had no issues, get great mileage out of them, and they stick well for me.
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That age vehicle is probably either on the motor itself or it's on the frame rail somewhere. I don't think they started doing in-tank in domestics until the early to mid 90's, but don't quote me on that.
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At that mileage, it shouldn't be the chain. I've owned 300,000+ mile Chevy's and never had one throw a chain. But that is a Chevy, not a Ford.
My first impulse says fuel pump, and with the symptoms you describe and the things you mention you did to check out the truck SCREAMS fuel pump. If there's no fuel in the cylinders, then there's less stuff to compress, so the engine will turn over easier. You've got fire, and if the cam chain jumped timing, it would still fire off with fuel in it, just like the ether did. So it's got to be a fuel problem of some sort, most likely the pump.
Snell helmet rating
in The Garage
Posted
Maybe they need to do a comparo regarding full face helmets ONLY and see what does better. I won't wear a bowl, because while it might be kinder to your brain, it doesn't keep your face from being grinded off in a wreck.