Furbird

Come on man, that's it? I have an alarm with a remote start box (2 separate units) AND I stripped down a jump pack and put in there to jump off other bikes! Get to work!

I'll take everything else. Sending you a PM.

Group buy!

I'd dry everything off, reassemble, then put baby powder or baking flour all over the bottom of the pump, near where the pump mounts to the tank, pressure hose, all that crap. The instant it leaks you will be able to pinpoint where and how bad. This will make it MUCH easier to correctly diagnose it. Then you can either shop vac it up or put an air hose too it (as long as you are outside, because otherwise it will go everywhere!) There is no sense in buying parts you don't need. I can tell you this though, from experience. I've had the pumps out of the tanks on my street bird and my drag bird probably 5 times each, and I've never replaced that seal. I have put a fuel hose on my street bird though, and it turns out it was just the crimp had come loose. I had it re-crimped, and it is now the one on my drag bird.

Not mine, but not a bad price. Shipping is high, but considering the current bid as of 10:20 pm Central time, it's a pretty good deal for a great seat. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-CBR11...sQ5fAccessories

Do you have a link to this product? I can find one for a Busa on Schnitz, and I went to Brock's website (or what I thought was his website) but there is no listing for it.

Same oil in both bikes. Same oil, same fuel from the same station, same header (different muffler). I purposely did that so that both bikes would be as close as possible so I'd have as little adjusting as I could to do between the two bikes. Unfortunately, that whole saying about the best laid plans is coming into effect in this situation. I'm pulling the clutch this week because there's another money race at a different track next Sunday. I'm kinda leaning towards just replacing the clutch plates at this point and seeing if that fixes it. I can always go back and go more radical with the springs or the whole Barnett kit. I've read in a couple of different places about the Barnett kit being real hard on the clutch basket. I don't leave hard, so that may not apply to my situation, but I also don't want to take any chances.

Both bikes are 99's. Just for further information, I have had the slick (with the same cush drive, wheel, even the sprocket) and the bars on the street bird before and the clutch acted just like it did with a street tire, so it is definitely something that is only on the drag bike.

As some of you know, I have two birds, one for the street, and one I picked up less than a year ago just for drag racing. The street bike I raced since I bought it, and I can cut killer lights on it, but it's not deadly consistent, and at my local track you have to run really good numbers. I've been fortunate with it the few times I have bracket raced it, but my biggest problem is breaking out. Not to mention, I wanted a bike that I could do nothing but drag race, so that's why I ended up buying a second bird. So, now I have this drag bird, and it has a slick, bars, and an MPS autoshifter. Today I ran it at the track (pretty big race) and it ran within .05 all day long, and I always leave a buffer just in case it decides it wants to run faster or the weather changes and it picks up speed. But I cannot get that thing to get on the tree at all. I started off red lighting, and I mean bad, then I could run a couple of .02 lights, even a .004, then I start cutting horrible greens, like .16 and .22. It doesn't matter how close you run on your numbers if you leave a quarter second on the tree to somebody. I tried launching it like my street bird, no dice. I tried moving deeper and shallower into the staging beams, no luck with that. I tried delaying or increasing my clutch letout time (which is a huge no-no, because then if I race the street bike again I'll totally screw up and my launch method has been the same for years). I just cannot get it to cut a consistent light. One thing I've noticed is that the clutch won't ever lock into place. I don't know if you guys have this issue, but on my street bird, you let the clutch out slightly when you get on the tree and you could feel a little knock, almost like the clutches were lining up or something, then it would release like a clutch in anything else. If I tried to pull in the tree and not "bump" the clutch out, when I'd let the clutch go it would bang into place then immediately pop out then back in again. On a bad day, it would bang so hard it would stall the bike. So, bump the clutch once, then it would act normal. On the drag bird, that doesn't work. Every time I let the clutch out a little, it knocks like that. If I pull it back in, it knocks like that again. So now when I get in the tree, I have to release some pressure on the clutch to let it knock that way it will launch like it's supposed to. Obviously, this is causing wear on the clutches, and it's hard to sit there with the clutch slightly out because you don't know if you have it out at the same distance as you did before, so you could end up leaving early or late. If you let it out too far, the bike creeps. Pull it back in too far and it will knock when you let it out. So I know all of this is causing me to have so many problems with my lights. I have a spare set of stock clutches on the shelf, and I also have an entire Barnett clutch kit in the box. Should I swap out to the other clutches and see if it eliminates this problem, or use the Barnett, or use the Barnett springs with the stock clutch plates? The bike is bone stock engine, no power adders, is on slick and bars but I leave really easy so I don't tear stuff up. Screw the ET, I want it to go round after round year after year and only change oil, tires, and maybe a chain. I'm leaning towards the Barnett kit but figured I'd ask you guys first.

No cracks, no bends. I clean the seating surface out before I install bearings, and even if it were that, it wouldn't have done it 3 or 4 times consecutively.

As far as the varying depending on the tire, it's not tire related. It did it with the D205 originally, with the Continentals that I run now, did it on a Michelin Macadam (sp), anything I've put on it. It's not normal, and it annoys the heck out of me which is why I replace them. If it was ever torqued wrong, it was by the original selling dealer. Every time I take a wheel off it goes back with a torque wrench. IIRC, front wheel torque is 43 ft/lbs and rear is 69 ft/lbs. Whatever it is, it's in the manual, which I keep in the garage by the bike so that I torque it correctly.

You don't pack the front wheel bearings as they are a sealed unit. Front axle is torqued to spec, so that's not causing it either. You can hear a slight whine in the front end, then when you turn (side load) it gets REALLY loud. If you weave back and forth, it sounds like a siren.

I rarely even wash the bike, and even then it's not with a pressure washer. Mine is now all flat black, so if it gets dirty, it gets washed with a spray bottle and a paper towel or something. I don't even run a hose over it. I don't ride in the rain much either. I just go through a lot of front wheel bearings for some reason. Basically, if I need tires, I need bearings, and I only change the front tire out about every 10-12k miles or so. What's weird is even with all the drag racing I've done, trips to the dragon, and the 49k showing on the clock now, I've never put a set of rear wheel bearings in. But I'm probably on my 4th set of front ones now.

Ayers doesn't eliminate per year. Service Honda does, and it should only come up with one number. If they do have two, one will supercede to the other one. Don't feel bad, I go through front wheel bearings about every 10-15k on mine. Next time I'm going to give AllBalls a shot since the Honda ones don't seem to last for me.

33032 fuel filter from Oreilly's. Microguard was 2.49 + tax in June of last year when I bought one, WIX was 3.99 + tax. The Honda one is around $50. http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=54408

This listing is from a friend of mine at work. All details are in the listing. He may be willing to split the distance to meet a buyer. IIRC, he actually met somebody from NC last time in Atlanta. http://mobile.kijiji.com/c-Pets-Dogs-puppi...QAdIdZ120233215

Did anybody ever make one of those carbon fiber covers for the stator cover on a bird? I don't really find them all that attractive personally, but the stator cover on the dragbird has literally been welded back together and is hideous (funny calling a welded up part on a furry bike "hideous"). I can't find one with a quick ebay or google search, anybody got a link saved somewhere?

OK, so the Tomahawk is out it seems. jcrich and I are talking about a deal on his old warmer, and I'll start looking into another tire company.

What woke me up is something that happened a couple of weeks ago when I raced at the track. I came out of my burnout and hit the front brake and the tire slid, which in all my years of drag racing has never happened, whether old tire or new, heat of day or cold of night. It damn near pitched me off because I was completely unprepared. Two weeks prior to that a guy I know, first pass of the night, did lowside his bike when his front tire locked up on the big end. Now those are both freak things, but if a tire warmer would alleviate that, then I'd put up with a little inconvenience for peace of mind. And I never EVER ride through the water. I pull around it and back in, or at my home track there are several lanes, 5 that enter in front of the water and two that loop around behind and through the water. In that case I can just pull straight out then back in. Regardless, the front tire never gets wet. On the Tomahawk thing, yes it is a retread. But they make the softest compound sportbike tire you can get, and their tires are good to 220MPH whereas on a good day I might trap 110 in the eighth. Again, the tire would still perform better with heat in it, so I'm going to try the warmer on what I have then go from there.

jcrich, definitely interested. Let me know. I know a tire warmer would get old, but to me the most important thing is getting it warmed up in the first place. Once rounds start, they go pretty fast, it's getting to rounds that's the time killer. I went a couple of weeks ago and it was an hour to my first pass. Then another hour to second pass. Then over two hours to an actual elimination race. There's some big races coming up that are bike only, and once we get going, it's going to go through real quick. But I'm running a regular street radial tire on the front and that bias-ply slick on the rear. So I have a tire that takes a few miles of street time to wear up on the front and a slick that warms up in 2 seconds on the back. Yeah, doesn't work so good. I've also considered a really soft tire, and was actually looking at the Tomahawk DOT legal tire they have in their absolute softest compound. But once again, I still have no way to get any heat in it so I'd have a sticky tire that is still cold. I figure I'll give the warmer a shot first, which is why I'm wanting to figure out a way to do it inexpensively. If it works I could be on to something that can help others, and if it doesn't then it's no big loss.

I have been thinking about a tire warmer for the front tire on my dragbike. It's not so much that I absolutely need it, but it sure would be nice to have some way to keep the front tire warmed up so that I don't run into a situation where the front may slide due to a cold tire issue. I've seen some warmers on ebay, but since I don't need one for the rear, I was wondering if anybody knows of a way to fabricate one. One option would be making one out of the stuff you guys in cold climates have to keep your pipes warm in the winter, which I've seen a post once where somebody made heated gear out of that stuff. Any comments or suggestions?

I finally found the switch under the clutch section (not under the switch section where the average human would think that it is). Local dealers don't have it, but I'm going to go order it tomorrow. My dragbike didn't have one on it at all. Probably lost in one of it's crashes before I bought it. I have several microswitches from all my years of car electronics installation, but nothing that will work.

Does anybody have or know how to acquire JUST the clutch switch for a 99 bird? Parts microfiche does not show that you can get it separately from the entire switch assembly. I'd even be willing to buy somebody's left switch assembly even if it's broken if just that switch is ok, because my housing is fine.

It makes life a little easier, but is not required. I've done it on my dragbike with the stock windscreen and master cylinders still bolted to the handlebars. Some people use two people to do it and actually unbolt the master cylinders from the bike and hold them up level in their hands.

Mine popped the fuse once in the middle of a huge charity ride. I kept having to drop out of line, speed up, slow down, etc. getting air through the radiator. I used the next step up on fuse size and it has not happened again. Not the correct repair, I know, but given the conditions in South Alabama, I figured I'd run with it. Straightening out any bent fins on your radiator and clearing out any debris (rocks, leaves, dirt, etc) will also help a great deal.